Well, been a while. Its getting close.
Specs....
2" od gr 9 ti tube 12" long
5 smoothe 60deg cone baffles with skirts
1 17-4 stainless cone baffle for blast cone
17-4 end caps threaded 24tpi
What a journey! Learned alot about Ti making this thing. Like go slow and take healthy cuts.
Tube started out 2" x .188 wall. Turned the outside first to have a true surface to start with. Then turned the inside of the muzzle end to 1.800 id 4" long. This is the blast chamber and end cap mounting. Blast chamber came out to 3" long. End cap/mount is 1" long.
Turned tube around in lathe and bored th other 8" 1.870". This left a step for the cones to sit against.
The baffles slide in with .002 clearance . Then end cap will screw on and clamp stack with .004 crush.
Ill post more as the final tuning and trimming are complete. I may also add a last cone at the exit end and trim .250 off one of the other skirts.
Weight came in heavy at 2# 11oz.
Greg
Chytac in final steps
Chytac in final steps
Last edited by pyrofx on Fri Apr 17, 2015 11:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
In Living Color Productions LLC
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
-
- Silent Operator
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 4:05 pm
- Location: Lancaster County, PA
Re: Chytac in final steps
That looks fantastic, nice work.
Out of curiosity, what kind of bar did you use to bore 8" deep? I'll bet that wasn't the most fun part of the process. What kind of lathe did you use?
Out of curiosity, what kind of bar did you use to bore 8" deep? I'll bet that wasn't the most fun part of the process. What kind of lathe did you use?
Andy Gamble
Binary Arms
07/02
Binary Arms
07/02
Re: Chytac in final steps
The bar was a 12" long 1" dia. Used a vn insert. Cut so so . Then ground a very positive rake on it and it cut like butter. .010 doc, 300 rpm. Uesed a prototrak 14" with 2" bore. Made a set os soft jaws with 4" of surface clamping.
Ill post more pics when i figure out how to copy paste off tinypic with the ipad. It just doesnt like to copy.
Greg
Ill post more pics when i figure out how to copy paste off tinypic with the ipad. It just doesnt like to copy.
Greg
In Living Color Productions LLC
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
- Capt. Link.
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 2829
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:05 pm
- Location: USA.
Re: Chytac in final steps
Nice more spec's please!
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Re: Chytac in final steps
In Living Color Productions LLC
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
Re: Chytac in final steps
What in the world did you draw on the end? Is that a sphincter?????
-----
Ick
Ick
Re: Chytac in final steps
the nickname of the weapon system is the Cyclops. Eyeball will be laser etched when its doneick wrote:What in the world did you draw on the end? Is that a sphincter?????
Last edited by pyrofx on Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
In Living Color Productions LLC
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
- T-Rex
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 1865
- Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2014 3:38 pm
- Location: CT - The AntiConstitution State
Re: Chytac in final steps
That's a lot of machining, good work.
A lot of threads on the distal end. Did you think of, maybe, interrupted threads, for ease of assembly?
Are you planning any clipping? Porting?
How did you come about the 1.5" spacing, between baffles?
Any reason you didn't go the plug weld route, to save weight?
I hope it performs spectacularly
A lot of threads on the distal end. Did you think of, maybe, interrupted threads, for ease of assembly?
Are you planning any clipping? Porting?
How did you come about the 1.5" spacing, between baffles?
Any reason you didn't go the plug weld route, to save weight?
I hope it performs spectacularly
Completed Builds www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=79895
Burst Calculator www.engineersedge.com/calculators/pipe_bust_calc.htm
Silencer Porn www.instagram.com/explore/tags/silencerporn/
Burst Calculator www.engineersedge.com/calculators/pipe_bust_calc.htm
Silencer Porn www.instagram.com/explore/tags/silencerporn/
- Enfield577
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 805
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:29 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Chytac in final steps
Excellent work, great to see
Cheers
D
Cheers
D
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
- jimmym40a2
- Elite Member
- Posts: 2745
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 8:25 pm
- Location: Colorado (for Mongo)
Re: Chytac in final steps
I may clip them. The spacing was a wag. Based it off Jimmy's 50 cal can. The long threads are only 1" long so not to bad . The muzzle pressure is only 9100 psi , but better safe than sorry.T-Rex wrote:That's a lot of machining, good work.
A lot of threads on the distal end. Did you think of, maybe, interrupted threads, for ease of assembly?
Are you planning any clipping? Porting?
How did you come about the 1.5" spacing, between baffles?
Any reason you didn't go the plug weld route, to save weight?
I hope it performs spectacularly
I just learned how to machine Ti , welding is next.
I may thread the muzzle end deaper , and make that thread .750 deep instead of .400.
And hell , it only weighs 2#11oz.
Greg
In Living Color Productions LLC
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
Oatman, Arizona, USA
Fun begins at 28 Mills elevation
- Shift1
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:12 pm
- Location: Lurking in the shadows of the Rocky Mountains
Re: Chytac in final steps
Machine work looks great...
"The Constitution shall never be construed to prevent the people of the United States who are peaceable citizens from keeping their own arms."- Samuel Adams
"LP"
"LP"
Re: Chytac in final steps
Did you use a boring bar to do the inside of the baffle?