"No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.

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JeffWard
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"No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by JeffWard »

ASSUMING I HAVE A COMPLETED AND APPROVED FORM 1 TAX STAMP IN-HAND...

Are there any companies that produce the parts for a "turn key" suppressor kit? For those who don't have a machine shop in their garage?

I'm not expecting the quality and suppression of a big-named quality suppressor, or a professional machinist's build. Just a functional Form 1 can that can be screwed together from purchased parts? Specifically, something that will handle 9mm and 22LR.

JW
quiettime
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by quiettime »

No. A completed silencer part is considered a silencer.

You're going to have to do some sort of drilling/threading and/or welding to complete
pdsmith505
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by pdsmith505 »

The closest you will find are the various freeze plug "solvent trap" kits out there. At a minimum you will need a drill press.
FarmDadCO
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by FarmDadCO »

A FP can doesn't require a drill press , but one would be nice . I think about all of them offer centering tools that are useable to center the holes in the freeze plugs ( baffles ) with a 1/8 bit and then you progressively expand them from there . Which can be done fine with a hand drill and set of channel locks . The only company i have experience with first hand so to speak is SD Tactical and i know they offer a full line of stuff for the intrepid but tool short builder as well as having their own forum for the freeze plug builders .
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T-Rex
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by T-Rex »

You can always "rent" a drill press from a big box store. :wink:
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montage11
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by montage11 »

I've researched these for military guys traveling abroad. You can leave usa with a kit of parts that fit together downrange in a war zone and leave the can there and not return with it. Some possible recipes:
NOTE: some basic tools will allow a much cheaper and better option than these recipes, but not as turn key.

1: get a form 1 cleared so you don't get ass raped over semantics on what a car part vs silencer part is, then:
-sd tactical arms 5.7" C cell can,

-two thread protectors of different threads (so you can clean different guns of course). one can be used as a end cap,

-one solid end cap(because it IS a cleaning trap after all, right?),

-spacers: 3/4" pex clamps from lowes(stacked 2 at a time).(these are copper and soft, so not considered the best spacer material).
-cutting aluminum with a miter box and and hack saw would cost $5...but you wanted no tool assembly.

-baffles...heres the magic: 1.03" ouside diameter valve spring retainers(it will say an inside diameter that is wrong as it deals with the spring steps in the retainer, not the through hole). The through hole is .400". Perfect for 9mm and lesser cartridges.
i recommend titanium for weight savings in a non boostered can.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-2 ... /overview/

using this 6" sd tac setup with 6 titanium VSR, and aluminum spacers, will result in a sub 6 oz can that will be reliable on a beretta 92 only, or any fixed barrel gun. it will need to be shot wet to be effective for about 5 shots. Used wet and with 22 LR, it will be as quiet as a factory 22 can for about 15 shots.

i don't have any turn key recipes for a SD B cell or D cell.

Anther method for tool less creation...put one freeze plug in the can, point to the ground, fire a 30 caliber rifle thru it and create a perfectly centered 30 caliber hole for 22 or 223 use. replace. repeat.

keep parts in the bag until form 1 clears. keep parts at different addresses so there's no confusion as to your intent to wait for form 1. dont cut spacers until form 1 clears! Gun power residue or modifying any car part before form 1 clears, equals ass rape.
Scared_of_zombies
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by Scared_of_zombies »

montage11 wrote:I've researched these for military guys traveling abroad. You can leave usa with a kit of parts that fit together downrange in a war zone and leave the can there and not return with it. Some possible recipes:
NOTE: some basic tools will allow a much cheaper and better option than these recipes, but not as turn key.

1: get a form 1 cleared so you don't get ass raped over semantics on what a car part vs silencer part is, then:
-sd tactical arms 5.7" C cell can,

-two thread protectors of different threads (so you can clean different guns of course). one can be used as a end cap,

-one solid end cap(because it IS a cleaning trap after all, right?),

-spacers: 3/4" pex clamps from lowes(stacked 2 at a time).(these are copper and soft, so not considered the best spacer material).
-cutting aluminum with a miter box and and hack saw would cost $5...but you wanted no tool assembly.

-baffles...heres the magic: 1.03" ouside diameter valve spring retainers(it will say an inside diameter that is wrong as it deals with the spring steps in the retainer, not the through hole). The through hole is .400". Perfect for 9mm and lesser cartridges.
i recommend titanium for weight savings in a non boostered can.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-2 ... /overview/

using this 6" sd tac setup with 6 titanium VSR, and aluminum spacers, will result in a sub 6 oz can that will be reliable on a beretta 92 only, or any fixed barrel gun. it will need to be shot wet to be effective for about 5 shots. Used wet and with 22 LR, it will be as quiet as a factory 22 can for about 15 shots.

i don't have any turn key recipes for a SD B cell or D cell.

Anther method for tool less creation...put one freeze plug in the can, point to the ground, fire a 30 caliber rifle thru it and create a perfectly centered 30 caliber hole for 22 or 223 use. replace. repeat.

keep parts in the bag until form 1 clears. keep parts at different addresses so there's no confusion as to your intent to wait for form 1. dont cut spacers until form 1 clears! Gun power residue or modifying any car part before form 1 clears, equals ass rape.
That's a great way to strip threads on the host weapon or suppressor.
montage11
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by montage11 »

Using rifle as a drill:
That 1 baffle suppressor would not strip itself off a gun.
And that aluminum or steel freeze plug would had very little transference of energy to it, as
A rifle round melts it way through, and wouldn't strip off either.
Have you seen the AAC m4 2000, shot with 30 rounds of 300 blackout Stuck in it?
No threads stripped there either.
montage11
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Re: "No Machining Required" Form 1 Build?

Post by montage11 »

Sorry, don't know how to post a pic.
But if you scroll down to the bottom of this link,
You see the 223 AAC can filled with 30 rounds of 300 blackout.
Threads stripping, shouldn't be a problem as long as you totaled shoot thru the baffle. match the bullet speed with material of spacer and and there shouldn't be any problems.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthr ... ittle-help
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