Baffle spacing for 300aac

[mr fixit]

F1 is in hand. I am approved for 15".

This is going to be a permanently attached can on a 1/7 8" AR to bring the length up over 16 so I have a one stamp gun. I will be shooting both subs and supers.
Tube is 1.625"OD, 11" long. 2" will be re-flexed back to help with blow back. Mount will be on muzzle brake which is 1.5" past the muzzle. The reflex area along with the 1.5" of brake will be the blast chamber, a flat freeze plug will be attached to the end of the brake to seal the blast chamber.

The 7.5" in front of the brake will hold the baffles which will be the lowly freeze plugs pressed into 45* cones. I plan to plug weld the baffles in place, no spacers to maximize volume. Cones will be 'clipped'.

I'm thinking of 7-10 baffles. I'm looking for suggestions on spacing. I appreciate any opinions and suggestions.

[T-Rex]

What spacing will the skirt of your selected FPs provide?

[mr fixit]

about .375"

[mr fixit]

cone depth is about .450"

[mr fixit]

Forgot to mention, 304ss tube, stainless freeze plugs, TIG welded can.

[cs86]

Would someone be able to explain to me the difference between freeze plugs and baffles? I tried to do a search, but wasn't really getting a good explanation. I've just been reading and trying to learn. Thanks!

[Nanook49]

Freeze plugs are being formed into cones, and used as the baffles.

[mr fixit]

Would someone be able to explain to me the difference between freeze plugs and baffles? I tried to do a search, but wasn't really getting a good explanation. I've just been reading and trying to learn. Thanks!

Baffle is the generic term for parts of a silencer/suppressor that divide the internal volume of the can into chambers. A baffle can be in many shapes (flat, cone, "K", "M", sphere, slant, etc.) and made of many materials (Stainless steel, mild steel, titanium, aluminum, etc.). Depending on the material a baffle is made from, and the shape of the baffle itself, they can be made or turned on a lathe, pressed to shape, cast from molten metal, or otherwise cut/shaped/formed from a block of the material being used.

A freeze plughttp://www.econofix.com/frezplug.html is what some of us use as baffles, mainly because we do not possess the tools such as a lathe to turn or make our own. A freeze plug comes round in several materials, and sizes can be found to fit various internal diameters (I.D.) of tubes we use to make a home build suppressor/silencer/can. A freeze plug can be used as is, or pressed into a cone shape which then resembles a "M" baffle made on a lathe.

Freeze plugs are a decidedly 'low tech' method of making baffles, and many consider them to be very "Low Brow" at best (mainly by those who do have a lathe).

Hope this helps.

[colimr]

MR Fixit I love your description (low brow) It makes me feel so cave man

[c5_nc]

The tighter stacks tend to work better for 300blk subsonic. However in your case given the volume of your can, I don't think you can really mess it up any way you do it. Half inch spacing unless you are wanting to save weight maybe, the increase up to 1'. So skirt + spacer to equal that length.

[cs86]

Thanks for the explanation of the freeze plug baffles. I thought they were something special for suppressors. The first thing that came to mind when I read "freeze plug" was when I popped a plug out of a boat from not winterizing it good enough. Essentially It sounds like the same type of plug. It's just used for a suppressor.

[mr fixit]

The tighter stacks tend to work better for 300blk subsonic. However in your case given the volume of your can, I don't think you can really mess it up any way you do it. Half inch spacing unless you are wanting to save weight maybe, the increase up to 1'. So skirt + spacer to equal that length.

How do the tighter stacks work when shooting supers?

What do you build yours for primarily, supers or subs or combo?

[c5_nc]

The tighter stacks tend to work better for 300blk subsonic. However in your case given the volume of your can, I don't think you can really mess it up any way you do it. Half inch spacing unless you are wanting to save weight maybe, the increase up to 1'. So skirt + spacer to equal that length.

How do the tighter stacks work when shooting supers?

What do you build yours for primarily, supers or subs or combo?

In the earlier FP can's I have heard by the ear it seemed the ones with tight stack sounded slightly better on subs and similar on supers and the ones with fixed spacing. When variable spacing was used (a stack of 3-5 at the exit, with spacers of .25" then .50") in addition to the skirt on the plugs that seemed to sound as good on subs, maybe slightly better on supers and it weight was a bit less.


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[mr fixit]

I wonder can you have too much space between baffles?

[Bendersquint]

I wonder can you have too much space between baffles?

Absolutely.

[mr fixit]

I wonder can you have too much space between baffles?

Absolutely.

Is there any standard of what "too much" is? Is there a safe range of what is acceptable such as 1" or less but not more than 2" for example?

[Bendersquint]

I wonder can you have too much space between baffles?

Absolutely.

Is there any standard of what "too much" is? Is there a safe range of what is acceptable such as 1" or less but not more than 2" for example?

Far too many variables to consider, best to review the finished Form1 thread and take a stab at it yourself.