FN "baby browning" diy projekt, make adapter and silencer.

[zastava]

Hello, im about with a little projekt.
I have a FN "baby browning" .25ACP little cute gun.
This one:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FN_Baby_Browning

Im going to thread the barrel internal, make a adapter, and a endcap to protect the threads.
Just like this one:
https://www.precisionsmallarms.com/xcar ... 282&page=1

Unfortunately i can not order that barrel already threaded and with adapter and everything, so i have to do it myself.
So i am going to make internal threads inside the original barrel, make a similar adapter and a endcap.
I wonder how much material from the originalpipe should i take away? I want it to hold and not brake when i use it. I dont know what material the original barrel is but i wonder about some meassures, how far in will i have to make threads? What threads recomend? Anything more exempt to make sure the threads absolute in line with the bore?
The best would to have the correct meassures ot that one that is sold but i am very thankfull for suggestions about what threads and meassures to use to make the internal threads in the barrel and to make the adapter.
I think i will make it in stainless steel.

And then also manage to come up with a good nice silencer to make for it.
I can get drawings from here:
https://grabcad.com/library?per_page=20&query=silencer

But still havent found what im looking for.
I want it to be about 3.15" - 3.94"
Not to thick. But good for atleast do some noisereduction when shooting regular .25ACP with a baby browning.
And not to hard to make, i would really need information about how i best reduce the sound and what meassures and tolerancec i have to follow, real blueprints or cad-files would be nice but atleast some information about what meassures and a good tactic to get the best result if i just take my preferences like what legnth i want and what threads and then modify one that i find on that grabcad-site, tip about what to choose to modify, how to modify it to best suit the .25ACP caliber and how to make it as quiet as posible. I have acess to modern cnc-lathes and a high-tech mechanic workshop, different materials also special metals. There is posibility to grind, meassure very exactly, make things with gibbscam and so on. The making wont be any problem, the problem is the facts that i have to know to make a good one and some tip maybe.

Anyone have any suggestions or answers to my questions?
Im a total neewbie when it comes to making parts for guns and when it comes to silencers. But i know some in general about guns and about mashining.

Best regards

[L1A1Rocker]

Sorry I don't have any words of wisdom on this. But I will say, this looks like a very fun and cool project! I may go look for my baby browning that buried back in the safe. Or maybe a Colt vest pocket. . . Hummm.

Good luck with your project and please, keep us posted.

[ninoslavt]

Browning Baby is hard to suppress. Slide is to light and recoil spring is to weak. That setup is OK for normal shooting but is problematic for use with suppressors. You'll need much stronger recoil spring at least, plus some good suppressor design that won't increase back pressure.
Now, such little can (8-10 cm), won't be especially quiet unless you're going to shoot it wet.

[zastava]

Thank you both for answers!
Im doing this just for fun, and to see if i can make it a little more quiet.
So i dont expect any miracle, not at any point when it comes to .25ACP.
But i will get that replacementbarrel that is internaly threaded and with adapter, i just wonder what can to build to make it reduce atleast some sound and just for a fun projekt?
Thinking about some monocore, download cadfiles/blueprints of for example this one:
https://grabcad.com/library/silencerco- ... lticaliber

And then just make it fit the .25 bullet. Dont know really how big the hole shoyld be but i suppose like 6,5mm or so?
Or do one with k-baffles. Or just start out with something simple and see how it works. Like really simple. think a tube with holes in it inside a bigger tube and then steelwool betwen the outer tube and the one with holes in it, and endcaps.

Havent found any stronger recoilsprings to order byt this site have som replacement parts, so do u think i can make it with like this:
https://www.precisionsmallarms.com/xcar ... 276&page=1
It says dual recoil spring, when i take apart mine it have only one spring sitting on the rod.

[ninoslavt]

You can always use .22 can with slightly larger holes (8 mm would be fine). Plus, you can also add or use just wipes. It won't be problem for you, because you're not from United States, right?
Now, about that spring. All you have to do is to find some guy in local factory to make you stronger one, or even better, few of them with different strengths.

[zastava]

Yeah i thought about just use a .22 can as modell and modify it a little to suit .25
What would you guys recomend to use asa first very easy can?
Im going to make more advanced stuff when the time is right but first of all i just want to experiment a little and just learn,

Edit: Btw what do u mean using vipes? What is that? And no i do not live in USA, what does that has to do with it?
Its very very hard to get a hold of a can here. So im pretty sure iil end up building those myself.

Atleast i think i can get a hold of a replacementbarrel threaded with adapter and threadprotector. So atleast i woulndt have to make that one myself. But that wouldnt really me a probkem, but im glad i can save the original barell and make the gun original again.

[Capt. Link.]

The Baby Browning is not a good candidate for suppression without extensive work.A new barrel should be made or the original bored out and a long threaded & rifled sleeve fitted.This work must be done by a very competent machinist/gunsmith.I have done this conversion on small Beretta pistols and would take on the job if you were in country. .

The other problem is the caliber, 25acp is a hot little cartridge.It will still be very loud even with a 1000mm long suppressor.

If you still wish to do the modification a suppressor with 3 or 4 K type baffles run wet will give the most suppression in a small package.

A .22 rifle is a much better first suppressed weapon.Simple suppressors work well when combined with subsonic ammo and long barrels.

Best wishes
-CL

[quiettime]

Edit: Btw what do u mean using vipes? What is that? And no i do not live in USA, what does that has to do with it?
Its very very hard to get a hold of a can here. So im pretty sure iil end up building those myself.

In USA we have strict laws about buying and making cans. Many other countries do not have these laws,

WIPES are an old technology. Early cans used pieces of felt or rubber that actually touched the bullet to reduce the amount of gas that escaped the can around the bullet. Some small cans today (such as the Thompson Machine Wasp) still use wipes because it helps make up for their lack of volume

CLICK HERE for a video review on the Wasp done by Fireman1291. I think it is a lot like what you are desribing for your project.

[zastava]

I understand all that, that the .25 and in particular a old baby browning is not the best thing to make quiet, i am just doing this as a fun projekt since i saw that threaded replacment barrel. So i am just looking to make something that is not that big, not that hard to make (or if i can get good blueprints with tolerances and meassures), and still will do atleast some difference.

If this works out good i can easily copy the adapter and make internal threads inside the barrel on a High standard - the victor .22lr, and if i manage to make one good supressor it wont be hard to make anotherone for the victor.

I have pretty ok machiningskills and can make the most things out of metall but my problem here is that i dont know what tolerances to hold on to when building a supressor. I have access to some different materials and i thought about making the front and endcap in stainless steel and either a monocore or some baffles in aircraftaluminum. I also wonder how big should the hole in the supressor be? I guess not as tight as the barrel itself, but not to wide either? So is there a thumbrule of some kind?

That rewiev on youtube they shot a .25 with a TM WASP supressor but as i understand that supressor is made for .22lr? That sounds like that would be to tight to shoot bigger bullets through that, or what do i know? Thats why im asking

Best regards

[zastava]

Anoyone know how far this distance is?

[Pillar]

Anoyone know how far this distance is?

Smells of 20 millimeter - Sorry my best eyeballing guess

[ninoslavt]

20 mm is too much. It's rather about 15 mm. And that bulge on the picture above is to big too. About 2 mm is all you need.

[gunny50]

20 mm is too much. It's rather about 15 mm. And that bulge on the picture above is to big too. About 2 mm is all you need.

20 is indeed way to much.

A lot of EU adapters are around 10mm for pistols.
Even the 9mm factory barrels of the SIG - H&K and Glock only use about 6 - 7 mm thread and that is for 9mm.
As the OP has the original barrel, measure that, print out the picture calculate and you will know.

Also shoulder of round 2mm is enough.

Also check AAC barrel thread specs.

You will get some ideas from checking with is available on the market.
http://www.advanced-armament.com/assets ... 040513.PDF

Gunny

[Capt. Link.]

Anoyone know how far this distance is?

It's been a while since I had a Baby Browning in my hands but remember how thin the barrel is.A measure of the outside diameter with a micrometer will give you a idea of what threads could be used on the muzzle side of the adapter.The suppressor side is probably the old standard of .375x24 tpi x .400" for small pistol calibers.

For baffle and endcap clearance a standard of bullet size plus .060 is a good standard though it can be tighter at personel risk.

Bullet = .251+.060= .311

Please add your country of origin.We enjoy our foreign born members.
-CL

[quiettime]

That rewiev on youtube they shot a .25 with a TM WASP supressor but as i understand that supressor is made for .22lr? That sounds like that would be to tight to shoot bigger bullets through that, or what do i know? Thats why im asking

I believe the pistol is a .22lr but the design is much like what you mentioned, monocore with wipes. Easily adapted to the .25 by enlarging the bore a hair.

Hope that helps

[zastava]

Thank you guys for all the help here. Im waiting for that barrel already threaded inside and with the adapter that i showed in earlier posts, instead of building my own adapter and threading the original barrel inside. So now im just checking around some places to see if they ship suppressors to my country at the same time as i think about a possible design to use to try building something myself.

Best regards

[Scared_of_zombies]

Anoyone know how far this distance is?

It's been a while since I had a Baby Browning in my hands but remember how thin the barrel is.A measure of the outside diameter with a micrometer will give you a idea of what threads could be used on the muzzle side of the adapter.The suppressor side is probably the old standard of .375x24 tpi x .400" for small pistol calibers.

For baffle and endcap clearance a standard of bullet size plus .060 is a good standard though it can be tighter at personel risk.

Bullet = .251+.060= .311

Please add your country of origin.We enjoy our foreign born members.
-CL

That's exactly the problem I had. I made a threaded sleeve with a .265 bore, threaded .335x40 on the inside of the barrel and .500x28 on the outside. After only a few shots it broke just past the slide. It may be possible that I had bad stainless or I didn't do it well, but it never made it through a magazine without breaking. Any suppressor was also extremely unwieldy as the handle for the gun is so small.

http://imgur.com/a/U71J9

I'm not sure why some of them rotated while being uploaded.

[zastava]

Well i ordered the one i showed in my first post. Anyone else done that and can tell me how that one works out?
Scared_of_zombies: You did yours or ordered? I understand it as u did one yourself. What can is that you are using?
Does it break if you shot with the suppressor on or it breaks anyway even with the suppressor screwed of?

Did you experiense any sound reduction and if so can you give me a hint of what to expect? I suppose the weak spots when it comes to reducing sound is the pistol itself, like it sounds out of the hole where it throw out empty shells and so. Any other tips or so that is worth knowing for me that is going to try suppress a baby browning?

Did you use another recoilspring or did u go with the original?

Best regards

[Capt. Link.]

That's exactly the problem I had. I made a threaded sleeve with a .265 bore, threaded .335x40 on the inside of the barrel and .500x28 on the outside. After only a few shots it broke just past the slide. It may be possible that I had bad stainless or I didn't do it well, but it never made it through a magazine without breaking. Any suppressor was also extremely unwieldy as the handle for the gun is so small.

http://imgur.com/a/U71J9

I used Chro-mo machined to +.010 on all surfaces.Sent it through heat treat then bored and turned it square to the centerline threads and all.The Bauer was a very nice copy and your looks cool with that big ass can on it.I have larger hands and find the micros a bit to small for more than diplomatic use.
-CL

[Scared_of_zombies]

Well i ordered the one i showed in my first post. Anyone else done that and can tell me how that one works out?
Scared_of_zombies: You did yours or ordered? I understand it as u did one yourself. What can is that you are using?
Does it break if you shot with the suppressor on or it breaks anyway even with the suppressor screwed of?

Did you experiense any sound reduction and if so can you give me a hint of what to expect? I suppose the weak spots when it comes to reducing sound is the pistol itself, like it sounds out of the hole where it throw out empty shells and so. Any other tips or so that is worth knowing for me that is going to try suppress a baby browning?

Did you use another recoilspring or did u go with the original?

Best regards

They never broke by themselves, the weight of the suppressor seemed to be what did it. They were made of 316 Stainless, but not heat treated or anything special.

I was using a form 1 can and it was much louder than a .22lr through the same can. It had a definite Pop/bang sound rather than a whoosh, so it honestly sounded like a firecracker.

Original recoil spring.

[Scared_of_zombies]

That's exactly the problem I had. I made a threaded sleeve with a .265 bore, threaded .335x40 on the inside of the barrel and .500x28 on the outside. After only a few shots it broke just past the slide. It may be possible that I had bad stainless or I didn't do it well, but it never made it through a magazine without breaking. Any suppressor was also extremely unwieldy as the handle for the gun is so small.

http://imgur.com/a/U71J9

I used Chro-mo machined to +.010 on all surfaces.Sent it through heat treat then bored and turned it square to the centerline threads and all.The Bauer was a very nice copy and your looks cool with that big ass can on it.I have larger hands and find the micros a bit to small for more than diplomatic use.
-CL

LOL, that big ass can is a newer silencerco sparrow (5" long by 1" OD).

[zastava]

Lol, the barrel didnt fit, what i have is a 1908 FN vest pocket and not a baby browning.
Well atleast now i can meassure the threads on the adaptor and do threads on its originalbarrel.
What to do with the extra barrel, dont know. But i gues as i leave the originalbarrel to be threaded the guys at the workshop put the new one up in a lathe, mashining it down and threading it for a backpiece and then build a zipgun or something hah..

[gunny50]

Lol, the barrel didnt fit, what i have is a 1908 FN vest pocket and not a baby browning.
Well atleast now i can meassure the threads on the adaptor and do threads on its originalbarrel.
What to do with the extra barrel, dont know. But i gues as i leave the originalbarrel to be threaded the guys at the workshop put the new one up in a lathe, mashining it down and threading it for a backpiece and then build a zipgun or something hah..

As the FN Vest Pocket has a bigger barrel that would give you more meat to work with.
It i salso the easier barrel to make yourself, if you have a lathe, some files and a little patience.
I would say buy a blank, a reamer, some gages, or make the extended barrel outside contour and contact a good gunsmith for the chamber.

Gunny

[zastava]

In my country gunsmith dont do that.
But i have acces to a mechanical workshop with very high level technology and very competent staff so take the old barrel, but it up in soft jaws, meassure the bore and put a, dont know the right english word, but measuringpin, pins that are hardened and grinded to exactly right dimensions, in steps like 6.01, 6.02, 6.03 mm and so on, in the bore and make sure the barrel is totaly straight by using a clock so the threads inside the barrel is strait to the bore withing 0,01-0,02mm, is that enough? and then make threads for the adaptor in that one.

best regards