Completed form 1 5.56 NATO build

[oli_c]

All state, federal, and local laws were followed in the making of this.
Earlier this year, I set out with the idea of building a form 1 suppressor. My brother and I had decided on building a rifle suppressor as it was what we deemed the easiest thing to start out on.

In June I filed for my form 1 and anxiously awaited approval. Sometime in October, the ATF gave us their blessing for us to build.

[Samson104]

what is the outer tube wall thickness? you can run .065" wall and thread it with 24 tpi and its will be plenty strong for centerfire rifles.
your cones look very thick and I'd wager to bet that's where a majority of the weight comes from , the cone wall only need to be .050" ish thick after the first baffle
also you can use aluminum tube for the spacers between the baffles that will help drop some weight.

[Pineapple Devil]

your outer tube game is weak, but your baffle game is strong. i can't believe you went with that tube when you made your own baffles. also, you're losing free space by not contouring your inner cone better.

[oli_c]

Insert text

[BCJ]

Go buy a 60 degree countersink to thin out the inside of your baffles. It will help with weight and sound. Also thin out the skirt thickness on the baffle for less weight and more internal volume

[oli_c]

Go buy a 60 degree countersink to thin out the inside of your baffles. It will help with weight and sound. Also thin out the skirt thickness on the baffle for less weight and more internal volume

I will definitely be looking into doing that.

[Sergeant]

Who sells a 60 degree counter sink? I've been looking for one.....

Steve

[propeine]

Who sells a 60 degree counter sink? I've been looking for one.....

Steve

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Hole ... ountersink

258 of em

i paid less for my compound which will do the same thing than what you will pay for a 1 1/2" 60° counter sink.

[Samson104]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-2-60-DEGREE ... SwT6pVzRxd

I prefer to use the compound on the lathe , just as fast and its already setup to the exact point for the outside shaping

[T-Rex]

When I get lazy, I put a T-Handle in my cordless drill chuck and spin the compound's handwheel with that!
Just put the torque setting on "1" and trigger away

[speed6]

Try 416 stainless steel as a baffle material next time. Easy to machine and a 400 series stainless (martensitic) so pretty strong and wear resistant. I second the countersink, although you are gonna want to use some lube on it when you cut stainless with it. I use dry lube from mcmaster and it got the job done.

[Mr. Teck]

When I get lazy, I put a T-Handle in my cordless drill chuck and spin the compound's handwheel with that!
Just put the torque setting on "1" and trigger away

I do the same thing for roughing in my cones lol. I then up the lathe rpms and finish them by hand to get a nice smooth finish.

[gunny50]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-2-60-DEGREE ... SwT6pVzRxd

I prefer to use the compound on the lathe , just as fast and its already setup to the exact point for the outside shaping

And as a bonus makes inside and outside paralel.

Gunny

[Scared_of_zombies]

Bore the cones the other way around and use a boring bar for the inside and a standard cutting for the outside. I wouldn't leave all that material especially if you are just going to use a spacer anyway, that's a lot of wasted effort. This will ensure uniform baffle thickness, and greatly reduce the weight.

http://imgur.com/oMktrGj