22lr 1" x 6" all titanium K baffle can
1" .051 wall GR9 tubing
1" GR 5 bar stock
Drawing shows .281 bore but I went with 17/64 and everything lines up concentric so at the moment I don't plan on opening it up any more.
This was done with SHARP HSS on a Southbend Heavy 10. Sharp is the operative word there. Let it rub for a minute and back to the hone stones you go. I did however use a carbide ball mill.
Drawings first
Other steps including the little workholder I made to do the ball mill scoops and interlocking tabs
Notice the blowout in the bottom left baffle. It was replaced. Judging thickness down in there for the ball mill is very difficult and so is figuring out depth.
This baffle isn't done yet
And on my 22/45 just for show
For good measure to show I'm on the up and up
Finished about 2:30AM one year to the day after I got my stamp approved. Now I'm dog ass tired at work. Should get to shoot it this weekend.
Videos
Ruger 22/45
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9_pGgypOpE
Savage FV-SR
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOk8z4jdvfQ
Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build w/drawings +video
Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build w/drawings +video
Last edited by propeine on Sun Dec 20, 2015 5:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
Masterful!!!
Standing O for clean job and presentation.
Nice way you set up holder for milling on lathe.
If one has a milling attachment*,say on an Atlas 618,
you clamp a 5C square collet holder** and
either insert a 1" 5C collet or insert an ER40 straight chuck***
in the 5C square, allowing use of the full range of collets.
* << http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman-12x36/mill1.jpg >>
** << http://www.use-enco.com/ProductImages/0967011-23.jpg >>
*** << http://g01.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1dbtlHFXX ... 2-er40.jpg >>
Standing O for clean job and presentation.
Nice way you set up holder for milling on lathe.
If one has a milling attachment*,say on an Atlas 618,
you clamp a 5C square collet holder** and
either insert a 1" 5C collet or insert an ER40 straight chuck***
in the 5C square, allowing use of the full range of collets.
* << http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman-12x36/mill1.jpg >>
** << http://www.use-enco.com/ProductImages/0967011-23.jpg >>
*** << http://g01.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1dbtlHFXX ... 2-er40.jpg >>
- whiterussian1974
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Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
Sweet build!!!
You've got more patience than most.
Just goes to show that it CAN be done.
You've got more patience than most.
Just goes to show that it CAN be done.
The Darkest Corners of Hell are reserved for those who remain Neutral!-Dante
The Death of One is a Tragedy, a million only a statistic.-Stalin
silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=135314
The Death of One is a Tragedy, a million only a statistic.-Stalin
silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=135314
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
Good looking build. Ever had a baffle come loose in the tool holder? I think I'll try that.
- L1A1Rocker
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Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
Very nice build! Love the ingenuity you used in drilling the baffle.
- curtistactical
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Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
I have been machining for 23 years, I have to give you props on the set up in the lathe. I'm impressed.
Joseph Jones
Curtis Tactical
07/02
Curtis Tactical
07/02
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
This is great! What is the Weight in ozs?
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
I've got more time than money. With only one shot per stamp I can't afford NOT to have patiencewhiterussian1974 wrote:Sweet build!!!
You've got more patience than most.
Just goes to show that it CAN be done.
The tension screws are on the angled portion of the baffles. Its more or less impossible for it to come out. I did have some chatter on one while milling the interlocking tabs. The ball mill didn't give me any issues at all.fastfire wrote:Good looking build. Ever had a baffle come loose in the tool holder? I think I'll try that.
Thank you! I'm a cheapass at heart.L1A1Rocker wrote:Very nice build! Love the ingenuity you used in drilling the baffle.
I'm no machinist haha. Engineer by day (previously welder with certs, brake press operator) and fumbly handle cranker at home. Setups are by far the most challenging part for me as I lack the experience. Other than the wedding ring seen in the rifle video this is my first real lathe project in over a decade. Sometimes not knowing the right way to do things is a blessing.curtistactical wrote:I have been machining for 23 years, I have to give you props on the set up in the lathe. I'm impressed.
5.2oz per our postage scale at work. The end caps could lose a bit of weight but getting down to 4-4.5 like some commercial cans would take a lot of work and tolerances that scare me on the baffles. I chickened out and some baffles are probably thicker than they need to be.montage11 wrote:This is great! What is the Weight in ozs?
For Comparison some commercial Ti Suppressors
Tacsol Axiom - 6oz 5.95"
AAC Element - 4.1oz 5.25"
Liberty Regulator 5.5oz 6.5"
PSD Minilith 5.3oz 6"
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
Quote; The tension screws are on the angled portion of the baffles. Its more or less impossible for it to come out. I did have some chatter on one while milling the interlocking tabs. The ball mill didn't give me any issues at all.
Thanks for that info.
Again I'm going to use this method when the time comes.
Thanks.
Thanks for that info.
Again I'm going to use this method when the time comes.
Thanks.
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build with drawings
If you don't have a mill i cannot think of a better way to do it. Post pictures and good luck! Shoot me a message if you need any more details. My boring bar holder is .625 so it's that on one end for about an inch. Other end is 5 thou over baffle diameter. 4 tapped holes. I used 10/32. I didn't show it but I used it in the boring bar holder with the drill bit in the lathe to drill the holes too. It's easy to find center that way and lock your height for when you go to mill the scoops.fastfire wrote:Quote; The tension screws are on the angled portion of the baffles. Its more or less impossible for it to come out. I did have some chatter on one while milling the interlocking tabs. The ball mill didn't give me any issues at all.
Thanks for that info.
Again I'm going to use this method when the time comes.
Thanks.
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build w/drawings +video
ONLY problem I see is the accuracy is horrible on the 22/45. You didn't hit that handicapped sign once.
Very nice. You did great.
Very nice. You did great.
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Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build w/drawings +video
Actually, I am having some accuracy issues with the 22/45. The fv-sr is holding 1/2in- 3/4in with the can on or off. The 22/45 is tumbling occasionally with cci sv despite seeing no indications of baffle strikes. It's 1 or 2 rounds out of 10. Everything looks concentric when sighting down the barrel.CMV wrote:ONLY problem I see is the accuracy is horrible on the 22/45. You didn't hit that handicapped sign once.
Very nice. You did great.
Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build w/drawings +video
Would be time consuming for all the setups, but indicate each baffle OD then run a 17/64 chucking reamer through. Make sure your tailstock chuck is perfectly aligned. That should show you and correct any that are off. If that doesn't do it, either do it again with an I drill or a 7mm reamer. I think the drill would just want to follow an off center hole so might not work well without going more oversize than you'd want.
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Re: Full Titanium 22LR K Baffle build w/drawings +video
In this photograph from your first post in the thread you've got all your ports lined up on the same side:
Perhaps a good thing would be to try flipping every second baffle such that the ports zig-zag down the core, before doing any further machining on the baffles. It looks like your interlocking keys ought to allow for such an arrangement. This would make for symmetrical cross-bore jetting, the pattern I've been using on my airguns and a .22lr pistol with good success, even when the baffles and endcap are bored to just 0.25". It was the suggestion of a friend with long experience of military issue firearms and suppressors that I should alternate for .22lr, but for anything bigger any clipping should be lined up all the same. Perhaps it's the slower velocity combined with low bullet mass which allows some interference with the round's progress down the baffle array?
I have found that there is some bullet tumbling in my .22lr semi-automatic pistol when using CCI Quiet, which show a muzzle velocity of just 570fps from the 4" barrel (total length; about 3" ahead of the bullet itself). Not enough to severely harm accuracy, as I've been able to shoot a couple of grey squirrels with it, one at about 10 feet the other about 20 feet and both impacts were exactly as aimed, both with this slower ammunition. But neither round penetrated the far side of the squirrels, which, considering the muzzle energy and comparing to my airguns, seems to indicate significant bullet tumbling and dissipation of energy inside the animals. When shooting on paper I see oblong holes, varying in shape depending on the distance from the paper. No sign of baffle impacts at all, but when the CCI Quiet lead is recovered from a soft cloth trap it is plain that the rifling grooves have been smoothed on one side of each. My suppressor for that pistol holds 7 K baffles plus a symmetrical blast baffle (though with a Dater hole to one side), the first K baffle also with a small hole (180 degrees to the blast baffle's slightly larger Dater hole), and at the other end a symmetrical endcap with a tapered entry similar to those of the K baffles:
All I can come up with to explain the tumbling of the lower velocity shots is either the uneven number of baffles cause sufficient asymmetry for this effect, or more likely there's a very slight off-centredness to my suppressor. The latter is not showing at all with SV ammunition of any brand so far tested, all shooting at minumum 905fps (Gemtech Silencer Subsonic) and going up to about 1,117fps (Federal SV), with most brands in the 910fps to 940fps range. None of these going above 900fps shows the slightest trace of scrubbing against the endcap nor any baffle, all making perfectly round holes in paper at whatever distance. Another factor could be the rather weak cutting and slow rate of rifling in my Unique D4 pistol (with shortened barrel so that it is now a D2 I suppose). Stability for lower velocities is unlikely with this barrel. In the cases of my various airguns, there is never any problem with such tumbling though I always use a 0.25" bore, at velocities between about 500fps and 770fps with pellets between 14.39gr and 18.13gr.
Perhaps a good thing would be to try flipping every second baffle such that the ports zig-zag down the core, before doing any further machining on the baffles. It looks like your interlocking keys ought to allow for such an arrangement. This would make for symmetrical cross-bore jetting, the pattern I've been using on my airguns and a .22lr pistol with good success, even when the baffles and endcap are bored to just 0.25". It was the suggestion of a friend with long experience of military issue firearms and suppressors that I should alternate for .22lr, but for anything bigger any clipping should be lined up all the same. Perhaps it's the slower velocity combined with low bullet mass which allows some interference with the round's progress down the baffle array?
I have found that there is some bullet tumbling in my .22lr semi-automatic pistol when using CCI Quiet, which show a muzzle velocity of just 570fps from the 4" barrel (total length; about 3" ahead of the bullet itself). Not enough to severely harm accuracy, as I've been able to shoot a couple of grey squirrels with it, one at about 10 feet the other about 20 feet and both impacts were exactly as aimed, both with this slower ammunition. But neither round penetrated the far side of the squirrels, which, considering the muzzle energy and comparing to my airguns, seems to indicate significant bullet tumbling and dissipation of energy inside the animals. When shooting on paper I see oblong holes, varying in shape depending on the distance from the paper. No sign of baffle impacts at all, but when the CCI Quiet lead is recovered from a soft cloth trap it is plain that the rifling grooves have been smoothed on one side of each. My suppressor for that pistol holds 7 K baffles plus a symmetrical blast baffle (though with a Dater hole to one side), the first K baffle also with a small hole (180 degrees to the blast baffle's slightly larger Dater hole), and at the other end a symmetrical endcap with a tapered entry similar to those of the K baffles:
All I can come up with to explain the tumbling of the lower velocity shots is either the uneven number of baffles cause sufficient asymmetry for this effect, or more likely there's a very slight off-centredness to my suppressor. The latter is not showing at all with SV ammunition of any brand so far tested, all shooting at minumum 905fps (Gemtech Silencer Subsonic) and going up to about 1,117fps (Federal SV), with most brands in the 910fps to 940fps range. None of these going above 900fps shows the slightest trace of scrubbing against the endcap nor any baffle, all making perfectly round holes in paper at whatever distance. Another factor could be the rather weak cutting and slow rate of rifling in my Unique D4 pistol (with shortened barrel so that it is now a D2 I suppose). Stability for lower velocities is unlikely with this barrel. In the cases of my various airguns, there is never any problem with such tumbling though I always use a 0.25" bore, at velocities between about 500fps and 770fps with pellets between 14.39gr and 18.13gr.