Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
After much thought I started my new. 22 can. I've had my F1 approved for nearly a month now so I figured I should get started I didn't have a lot of time to work on it today but I did get the end caps made
It will be 6" long 1.125"od x.065" wall 3AL2.5V tube thinned to .040" in the middle
The caps are 6AL4V threaded to 1.045" x 28 tpi
I'm going to thin the muzzle end cap down a bit more to try to shave a little more weight off
Hopefully by next weekend I'll have enough time to start on the baffles (8 Ks)
If you're shaving a bit out of the front cap anyway, you may want to trim selectively to add just a little bit of a baffle feature to the exit. Using a round-nosed cutter, cut a half-donut worth of material out around the hole, leaving the lip of the exit hole the height it is. Grabbing gas and swirling it backwards with that bit of shaping may net you another decibel of suppression, though if it were a bit deeper there might have been a stronger effect.
Lilpooh wrote:Do you plan on spanner holes to assist in removing caps for cleaning?
Yeah...I was thinking of spanner holes or putting it in a 5C collet and a hex collet block and milling flats for a socket but there isn't much meat left after the threads in the front cap (its hard to see but the cap is tapered 11* towards the out side with an 11* crown, so its a shallow M shape in cross section) , possibly milling indents for an ER collet style wrench I don't know
Truth be told I'm not the happiest with the front cap .
Well it looks like I'm going to have to remake the rear cap somehow the barrel threads ended up FUBAR they are not parallel to the bore. The cap must not have been in the collet straight . When I redo the cap I'll do it all in one operation without removing it from the chuck...I know better...
On another note I did get the tube cut and one side threaded
ETA : By redo (in respect to the end cap) I meant rethread it to 5/8x24tpi from 1/2x28 and make a 17-4 adapter that will be rocksett in to the cap.
I would never recommend remaking a end cap...
It's nearly done
Made 7 TI k baffles the cones are .050" thick the bore is .265"
Now just to shave some weight it 6.8oz as it sits I can take nearly an Oz off by turning the tube OD down by .020 between the threads ,that will still leave .045"
Just need to figure out what I'm going to do for removing the caps I think I'm just going to drill it so I can use a pin spanner
If you do holes like these, .155-.160" diameter, .190" deep work well for the $5 HF adjustable spanner wrench.
5/32, 22, or 21 drill work fine - just depends how tight a fit you want. I don't have coolant on my mill, but I've drilled these holes lots of times in TI. I just keep a stream of air (not much, maybe 30psi out of a typical blow off nozzle) directed at the hole & drill w/o stopping until I hit the depth stop. The scribe line in the right cap in my pic makes locating easier. Also gives the bit a little something to start in. If you can't go .190" deep because there isn't enough material, less will work too. .190" lets the pins on the wrench bottom out
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These things make me
That seems like the best idea...I left plenty of meat on the rear cap
On another note TI gets a bad rap for being hard to work with it was easier than the 17-4 in my last 2 builds.... but I did use flood coolant ...I'd say in all its not much harder than AL but it threads easier
they are not parallel to the bore. The cap must not have been in the collet straight . When I redo the cap I'll do it all in one operation without removing it from the chuck...I know better...
