Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
My e-Form1 was approved the end of Dec... 4 months and 3 days after I submitted it. The tube is 1" OD .070" wall titanium and the K-baffles are 416 SS from surplus target barrel stubs. I decided to make the first K with a deepened recess for extra expansion, and the last K has an undersized cone diameter to fit inside the end cap. As shown in the pics, the mount has 8 scallops and 12 inner holes for weight reduction, and the end cap hole in coned inside. I used a 59/64" 8-flute reamer to open the tube ID to .922" to allow my K's OD at .920". It weighs 6.2 oz, the OAL is exactly 6.0" and finished in KG GunKote FDE applied with an airbrush and baked-on. I've tested it, but don't have a video or db levels to report... I believe it is comparable to most commercial demo videos I've seen though.
What do you think???
Last edited by 1rflman on Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
1rflman wrote:My e-Form1 was approved the end of Dec... 4 months and 3 days after I submitted it. The tube is 1" OD .070" wall titanium and the K-baffles are 416 SS from surplus target barrel stubs. I decided to make the first K with a deepened recess for extra expansion, and the last K has an undersized cone diameter to fit inside the end cap. As shown in the pics, the mount has 8 scallops and 12 inner holes for weight reduction, and the end cap hole in coned inside. I used a 59/64" 8-flute reamer to open the tube ID to .922" to allow my K's OD at .920". It weighs 6.2 oz, the OAL is exactly 6.0" and finished in KG GunKote FDE applied with an airbrush and baked-on. I've tested it, but don't have a video or db levels to report... I believe it is comparable to most commercial demo videos I've seen though.
Thanks for the feedback... A friend steered me to this forum about 6 months ago, and I learned a lot of excellent information from it. Another detail about my build is that I held the reamer about .4" short of the mount end to form a shoulder for the first baffle position. I also improvised tools for the mount and end cap install/removal, shown below. I also included a pic of it attached to my primary host pistol.
Last edited by 1rflman on Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:42 am, edited 2 times in total.
It is a nice build and the photos are great.I like the end cap mod first I've seen like that.Your paint job looks flawless. The use of a internal shoulder is always a good idea as even the pros make mistakes on the effect of forward thrust.I think every one want's to see a bunch of holes in paper or a dead rabbit along with a range report from you.
Glad you are starting to make your presence known and contributing to this page.
-CL
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
It's actually a P229 Scorpion originally shipped with a 40S&W barrel/slide. I bought Sig's conversion kit in .22lr with the threaded barrel option. I also have their 357Sig barrel that drops right in the 40 slide for some extra power. For those not familiar with that cartridge, a 125gr bullet at 1,350 fps (standard ballistics) has 505 ft-lb energy, compared to a 45ACP +P 230gr bullet at 985 fps that produces 495 ft-lb energy (both measured at 15 ft).
Thanks again for the positive feedback... I'll have to take it to the range for some testing demos.
1rflman wrote:Thanks for the feedback... A friend steered me to this forum about 6 months ago, and I learned a lot of excellent information from it. Another detail about my build is that I held the reamer about .4" short of the mount end to form a shoulder for the first baffle position. I also improvised tools for the mount and end cap install/removal, shown below. I also included a pic of it attached to my primary host pistol.
So is your rear cap wrench cast to fit your cap? Is that cerrosafe or what is the material?
Kinda looks like cast iron.....you have easy access to a foundry?
The myopic majority will be our republic's undoing.
Thought it looked a lot like raw cast iron casting that had be bead blasted......but that would be rare to have access to that....plastic/epoxy is more likely.
The myopic majority will be our republic's undoing.
The mount end removal tool is a plastic pill bottle cap filled with Marine-Tex epoxy. I sprayed the mount with release agent, and after the epoxy had about 15 minutes to "set", I pressed the mount in it to form the impression. After it was fully cured, I faced it off in my lathe to the contour in the pic... Basically an economical design. For the end cap tool, I just drilled two .092" holes properly spaced in the polymer bushing wrench and pressed the 3/32" pins into it, that fit the 7/64" holes in the cap.
Capt. Link. wrote:...I like the end cap mod first I've seen like that...
...I think every one wants to see a bunch of holes in paper or a dead rabbit along with a range report from you...
-CL
I use that style on all my rifle barrel muzzles. It's a 30* bevel to a 90* crown, with a chamfered bore-to-crown junction. Here are some pics of an example on my Ruger 10-22:
The temp was about 30* when I went to the range yesterday, and I made "a bunch of holes in paper", but no dead rabbits. Some pics below of the results. I held the bolt closed on the 10-22 for target #2, which affected my hold on the rifle and the resulting group size.
It looks like the suppressor changed the point of impact slightly to the right, less than 1 MOA.
Last edited by 1rflman on Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
No dead rabbit required it's just me and my jovial spirit. I like the Frenching detail on the barrel I'm guessing fine glass bead. Perhaps you might explain the how to on viewtopic.php?f=10&t=115318 and add to the library of information.A shift of POI to the right and down is common as is enhanced accuracy.The combat crown looks good but I was talking about this end cap.Have you put in for stamp #2 yet .
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
I made that end cap mount with the interior radial holes for weight reduction, and with the thought it could increase turbulence there, but figured it wouldn't hurt anything either. My #2 stamp was approved in Jan., which is for a 30 cal can still on the drawing board. My design includes the Saker 51T QD mount and a 1.625" titanium tube. I'm researching the mount thread specs and dimensions I'll need to fabricate the "coupler"/blast chamber I will be making from 17-4 SS to attach the tube.
I call the barrel finish "frosted diamonds", but your reference to French (lace) sounds good too, like the stockings.
I'll try to come up with some pics and tips for a how-to instruction guide. It is bead-blasted with 280/320 fine glass beads over a plastic mesh barrel shipping protector.
The tube is 1" OD .070" wall titanium and the K-baffles are 416 SS from surplus target barrel stubs. I decided to make the first K with a deepened recess for extra expansion, and the last K has an undersized cone diameter to fit inside the end cap. As shown in the pics, the mount has 8 scallops and 12 inner holes for weight reduction, and the end cap hole in coned inside. I used a 59/64" 8-flute reamer to open the tube ID to .922" to allow my K's OD at .920". It weighs 6.2 oz, the OAL is exactly 6.0" and finished in KG GunKote FDE applied with an airbrush and baked-on. I've tested it, but don't have a video or db levels to report... I believe it is comparable to most commercial demo videos I've seen though.
