Need help from experianced minds

[rem_pss308]

My newest form one is a 9mm can with gemtech LID.
Can is 8" titanium 1.5" OD 1.375 ID. baffles are freeze plugs form with a tool bought off ebay, and I also use a 45 and 60 degree cone in the press to get a really deep cone shapes freeze plug. my first baffle is a TI valve spring retainer. I have bout 9 freeze plugs and 5 spacers in it. ( cant remember)
I started out with a 3/8" hole and was getting some metal shavings after a couple of shots. today I drilled it out to 40cal. .410" 13/16t drill I think. I used a 12" long bit and ran it through the can.
I am still getting metal shavings.

when I replace the spring inside the LID with the solid piece from gem tech, I don't get any shavings.

Is there a problem with my LID, or do I need to go with a larger hole to make up for low tolerance?

I have another can that is 9mm, but I only use it on my AR and is has 3/8" hole, and I don't get baffle strikes with it.

thanks for any input

Mike

[Capt. Link.]

You are having a LID problem in my opinion.You might do better with a stiffer spring to limit travel of the piston and the misalignment it appears to be causing.

[rem_pss308]

would that be something that gemtech would be able to provide?

[T-Rex]

You are having a LID problem in my opinion.You might do better with a stiffer spring to limit travel of the piston and the misalignment it appears to be causing.

Agreed, or at least I'd start here.
If Gemtech cant produce, measure the spring and go to McMasterCarr.

[JFettig]

3/8" is way too small for a 9mm suppressor. .410 is about right, you should take it apart to clean it out and make sure everything is aligned. Maybe your booster housing isn't aligned to the rest of the can?

[rem_pss308]

with the silencer on just the barrel, it looks aligned, just as all my others are.

[whiterussian1974]

with the silencer on just the barrel, it looks aligned, just as all my others are.

JFettig said: "Maybe your booster housing isn't aligned to the rest of the can?"
Use a cleaning or wooden rod to push down the entire system. Its OD should be nearly barrel ID and slide w/o binding.

[1rflman]

My suggestion for trouble shooting your baffle-strike problem is this: remove the suppressor from your gun and leave the LID attached to the can; then slide your 12" long 13/32" drill bit (round end first, not sharp point) into the front end cap and through the can to the LID until it just protrudes. Examine the amount of clearance around the drill, between it and the threads of the piston mount. It should look perfectly centered... if not, then I would conclude your suppressor to LID threads are not machined properly, or the tube end is not perpendicular to its center line. Hope this helps.

[Capt. Link.]

A long precise bore fitting rod will give you every thing including the barrel suppressor alignment.Even that is a static test and its passed one.The lock up can still be precise and fail in motion is my point.

I do agree with the bore size baffle issue in that .410 is a good size.If you can pass .355 bullets through a .375 hole I tip my hat to you sir!

[rem_pss308]

Thanks for the input guys.

got me going in the right direction.

took 1/2-28 part out of booster and ran the drill bit thru the baffles. looks like my hole thru the baffles is angled. its weird how that happened. im guessing because of the large hole for the booster on one end. where my 30 cal cans have a smaller hole to line up with when running the drill bit all the way thru.

am going to take baffles out this week and see if things line up with just the can and booster. if so will try to straighten hole on each baffle.

as usual yall have lots more knowledge than I.

[silencer_kid]

you come to the right place, lots of experianced minds here

[rem_pss308]

thanks again guys. I got it worked out this afternoon. with booster spring in, shot about 60 rounds thru it and no copper shavings, and point of aim, is point of impact. (in the dirt ) will shoot paper tomorrow.