3D Printed SilencerCo Octane Endcap tools, DEMO VID

[postban]

MODS; Designs are offered free, just an enthusiast here with severe BRD and a long time professional CAD designer. Have 7 cans, like to fill in downtime by designing hobby related stuff. Please delete if it violates any rules here.


[youtube]u5Vlj3MgLtw[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/u5Vlj3MgLtw
Sorry, not sure how to embed vid^


New one that uses less support material and features lanyard loop.


Square corner one
1) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw_valNiwkk3LW03bzZJMUxuRUE/view?usp=sharing
Hollow one, beveled shoulder
2) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw_valNiwkk3dFZvOWY3ZVgyVVE
Flatter one
3) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw_valNiwkk3OENQcUhaeHZwdGs
Hollow2 with lanyard loop
4) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw_valNiwkk3SmpNVkQwX3NIN3M/view?usp=sharing

Download from my drive, upload to your favorite 3d printing site, enjoy. Shapeways.com is one, dozens more.

[doubloon]

Nice.

[T-Rex]

Yeah, pretty cool. Especially your latest rev.

Not to be crass, but you do know the piston is the endcap tool, right?

[jreinke]

Cool, now make one that's an open-end wrench style so I can tighten my octane with left handed threads (fixed thread end cap for MPX) so I don't have to use a big f*cking crescent wrench.

[Kramer]

Tag

[Kramer]

Thanks. I made two flat and two square ones for me and my buddy on the 3D printer at school.

[yondering]

No offense but have you actually used these?

We use similar but higher quality rapid prototype machines at work, and it's hard to imagine one of these tools surviving more than a couple uses, unless the caps are never tightened very much. The material is pretty weak.

[postban]

No offense but have you actually used these?

We use similar but higher quality rapid prototype machines at work, and it's hard to imagine one of these tools surviving more than a couple uses, unless the caps are never tightened very much. The material is pretty weak.

"Good and tight" is all I have ever used on cans. These tighten sufficiently to make tiit so you cannot loosen by hand.
Some materials are brittle but regular Nylon like above should be fine for this use.

[yondering]

Good to know they work. My concern was more about loosening the caps after shooting a lot, where they end up tighter than you installed them from fouling.

[Kramer]

So far they are holding up fine. Just don't make them stupid tight.

[TomServo]

The files could also be sent to a company like ShapeWays and made in metal via lossless PLA, just like jewelry stores do. As long as it is just a tool and not a restricted part all should be on the up and up.

[missilemantdi]

No offense but have you actually used these?

We use similar but higher quality rapid prototype machines at work, and it's hard to imagine one of these tools surviving more than a couple uses, unless the caps are never tightened very much. The material is pretty weak.

print a new one when it breaks...

I have used printed gears in my lathe with surprising success. I needed metric change gears in my Logan and the worked like a champ. I couldn't find the factory gears so I made my own in solidworks and printed them in PLA.

[35NCO]

No offense but have you actually used these?

We use similar but higher quality rapid prototype machines at work, and it's hard to imagine one of these tools surviving more than a couple uses, unless the caps are never tightened very much. The material is pretty weak.

The chemistry of plastics has advanced quite a bit. Not sure what you are using at your work, but there are easy options to print PETG and Nylon at home. At 50% to 100% infil it is plenty strong. There are even PLA's with remarkable strength and heat resistance now. For tough applications I print with PETG. But for other tough applications you can use ABS or for the lessor, Raptor or the like, PLA. Some of these plastics can even be annealed.

I would also add, that yes, design in plastic objects is critical.

To the original poster, I made an aluminum version of a tool much like this about six months ago. Mine has the booster on one side and bosses on the other for the mounts. I think I still have the G-Code if someone wants it. I agree that a tool was needed! I don't want to use my boosters as a wrench.

To the poster, thanks. This is cool and a good idea.