Machining cerakoted parts

[fishman]

Will this work?

Cerakote my titanium (or aluminum) F1 silencer tube. then, machine fluting or grooves or knurling or engraving etc into the tube leaving bare metal behind. Then anodize the titanium, coloring the machined features. then I'm left with an awesome two tone finish.

Will milling or turning cerakoted parts chip and crack the finish or will it cut nice?

Will the anodizing process ruin the cerakote?

[propeine]

Will this work?

Cerakote my titanium (or aluminum) F1 silencer tube. then, machine fluting or grooves or knurling or engraving etc into the tube leaving bare metal behind. Then anodize the titanium, coloring the machined features. then I'm left with an awesome two tone finish.

Will milling or turning cerakoted parts chip and crack the finish or will it cut nice?

Will the anodizing process ruin the cerakote?

I have machined off areas with cerakote and it didn't flake or chip beyond where I was cutting. As to the anodizing, I would highly doubt it but don't have any experience.

[CMV]

For cerakote, what you are describing will work fine. I cerakote, then engrave often to make the engraving standout or be blackened for a neat look.

The issue you will have is creating bad wear areas. While I really like cerakote my one major gripe with it - or a lot of finishes - is that it wears poorly on sharp corners. So if your machining creates a 90° corner or a high spot where finish and bare metal meet, expect accelerated wear at that spot.

[fishman]

Maybe this can be mitigated by anodizing, cerakoting, machining, then re-anodizing. Any cerakote that chips will leave anodized metal behind. Or is the cerakoting prep going to destroy the nice anodizing anyway?

[John A.]

You can mill or engrave over cerakote or blue or anodizing.

As long as your cutting bit is sharp, shouldn't damage it.

You'll probably risk more damage securing it in a chuck or vise to hold it in place than the tool or laser cutting it.

What do you mean cerakoting prep?

Sandblasting?

Sandblasting, well yeah, that will damage the park or blue or anodize or whatever you have.

But a hint to you, you don't necessarily have to sandblast anything and cerakote will stick to most surfaces just fine. Just make sure it's clean and dry and you keep your mitts off of the piece until after it's coated and cured.

Also, if you can preheat the parts you plan to cerakote to where they are warm (100-ish degrees F), the finish will take a tooth a lot easier and faster.

*Extremely sharp edges and corners being the major exception. Like at the leading edges of a can. If you can chuck the endcaps up and run a file over the outside leading edge to slightly round the surface a little, will have a much better finished product.

So, you're going for a two tone look or just want some contrast?

Also, to add to what CMV said earlier, on a steel can, you can cerakote and engrave or mill whatever you want (like text) and then after you are finished machining, hit the steel with some cold blue. This works really great for contrasting. Especially with OD green or tan(s).

[fishman]

So, you're going for a two tone look or just want some contrast?

Are those not the same thing? It will be mostly black with just anodized accents, if that's what you're asking.

I'll have to consider blueing if I do a steel can. Does stainless blue?

[John A.]

No, stainless doesn't blue.

Only way I know to get stainless blackened is with zinc phosphate (parkerizing).

Or, at least that's the only way I know of that's common in the gun world.

[T-Rex]

You can get SS blue with heat coloring, same as mild and Ti.
Caswell makes a home kit, both liquid and gel, for blackening SS.

[John A.]

Thank you for adding that T-rex. I hadn't heard of caswells before.