Muzzle devices, tube diameter, thread pitch opinions sought.

[Reading]

Greetings gentlemen. Having a bit of paralysis by analysis here and need opinions.

I have four .30 cal stamps for lengths from 8" to 9". Would like to build identical devices to simplify things. Use will be on 300 Blackout with subs and supers and 5.56 with supers. Devices will occasionally be swapped between the Blackout and 5.56 hosts.

After lurking a while it seems that a conservative design is a muzzle brake on host, blast chamber just long enough for the brake, 60 degree cones with the first two being stainless and the rest titanium (about 7-8 total), titanium end caps and tube. Finished length 8".

Since the hosts have different muzzle threads I need an adapter to make the threads identical. I am leaning toward the SDTA threaded muzzle brake, primarily due to cost ($39). The other choice is the Griffin taper mount at $100-ish.

Question 1: Keeping in mind that I will likely need to end up with 8 or so, which would you advise and why?

I was planning on a 1.5" tube, but notice that Diversified has a 1.625" tube. I don't mind the increased weigh, bulk and cost if there is a concomitant benefit in suppression.

Question 2: Will there be a noticeable difference in quietness between a 1.5" tube with 1.375" I.D. versus a 1.625" tube with a 1.500" I.D.?

Diversified also offers the tubes with either 20 TPI or 24 TPI threads. The SDTA brake adapter requires 20 TPI, while the Griffin mount adapter can be had in either thread.

Question 3: Is there a reason to prefer one thread pitch over another for this application?

Thank you for your time.

[garredondojr]

I'm a noob as well so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

I personally would lean towards the griffin style as unless you plan on buying all of your sdta mounts now who knows if they'll be around for time to come. seems like a lot of the solvent tube companies are getting shut down one by one. griffin is here to stay.

for 300 blackout and 5.56 especially at those lengths I see no need for 1.625 tube. That tube size seems to shine once you get into magnum territory. for .308 and down 1.5" seems to fit the bill well.

on a side note as a personal opinion. muzzle brakes and sbr's are not fun. yes they are better for a suppressor but if you ever plan to shoot un suppressed then I'd lean towards a flash hider personally. and the sdta looks um....yeah... also is it effective as a flash hider? or is that even of concern.

another nice feature of the griffin style is their are OTB (over the barrel) mounts available. diversified used to offer one but I no longer see it listed. this gives you the option to semi reflex the suppressor over the barrel on say your 5.56 and 300blk hosts to minimize blast chamber volume. then if say you want to screw it onto a 300wm down the road you could buy a direct thread or minimalist muzzle device to maximize blast chamber volume.

this is the route I'm going with my 30 cal F1 for what it's worth.

as for the tpi my understanding is you need more threads for smaller pitch for same strength, however a finer pitch allows for a thinner tube safely as the root isn't as deep.

[yondering]

After lurking a while it seems that a conservative design is a muzzle brake on host,
...
Since the hosts have different muzzle threads I need an adapter to make the threads identical.

Maybe I'm missing something - you don't need thread adapters, you need muzzle brakes in different threads that will all attach to the same can. The brake is the thread adapter.

[Reading]

Thanks for replies.

on a side note as a personal opinion. muzzle brakes and sbr's are not fun. yes they are better for a suppressor but if you ever plan to shoot un suppressed then I'd lean towards a flash hider personally.

Guess I was not as clear as I thought--the stamps are for 8"-9" silencers, barrels are 16". Sorry about that.

The brakes are intended more for sacrificial baffles to make the silencer last longer--I hate the darn things otherwise. OTOH, if 16" barrels and stainless cones will last a decent round count then a flash hider would be better when the silencer isn't mounted...

for 300 blackout and 5.56 especially at those lengths I see no need for 1.625 tube. That tube size seems to shine once you get into magnum territory. for .308 and down 1.5" seems to fit the bill well.

Thank you for the feedback! Anyone disagree with this? ^^^

Maybe I'm missing something - you don't need thread adapters, you need muzzle brakes in different threads that will all attach to the same can. The brake is the thread adapter.

Yes, this is what I meant. I would otherwise go with direct thread mounting, the rifles aren't cooperating though...

[fishman]

My 300blk silencer is 1.625" OD. 1.5" is more popular because it fits under most handguards. 1.625 fits under only some handguards. My silencer works very well, but that's probably more so because it's 11" long. 1.625 certainly isn't necessary but I wouldn't recommend steering away from it.

If you make your own flash hiders or brakes, then you don't need to worry about the variance in barrel threads on your hosts.

[3strucking]

Do you own a lathe and mill or are you going to have to purchase all your parts from a vendor?

[Reading]

Do you own a lathe and mill or are you going to have to purchase all your parts from a vendor?

(Sigh) I wish. Went the electronics route rather than machining. I know just enough about those things to spell "mill" correctly almost half the time...

Am looking at Diversified or Crosshair Customs for tube (20 TPI only) and caps, Zmachineworx for cups. That is also why my original post only referenced SDTA threaded brake or Griffin mount as options, I don't have the ability to make my own.

Thanks for the help guys. So far it looks like:

Question 1--Only consideration mentioned is that Griffin will likely be around after SDTA is not, no mention of any qualitative difference.

Question 2--No apples to apples comparison, but no reason not to use 1.625".

Question 3--Higher thread count means slightly weaker joint per inch of thread, but shallower cuts so burst strength not reduced as much.

Hope I interpreted all that correctly.

[Sergeant]

1. If you are going to use SDTA tubes, end caps, then use their muzzle breaks. They are cheaper and work. That will allow you to put any can on any weapon.

2. You won't notice a difference between 1.5 and 1.625 O.D.
20 or 24 tpi...same thing. TBAC and others use 24 tpi.

3. No reason.

[fishman]

Question 3--Higher thread count means slightly weaker joint per inch of thread, but shallower cuts so burst strength not reduced as much.

Hope I interpreted all that correctly.

No, finer threads are stronger per inch of threads. The downside to fine threads is that they're easier to cross thread and they require more turns to tighten.

[cdhknives]

(Sigh) I wish. Went the electronics route rather than machining. I know just enough about those things to spell "mill" correctly almost half the time...

Me too...then I got my grandfather's old lathe 'free'. Hint: Free lathe is worse than a free puppy. Anyway, it has been enormously fun and rewarding to learn to turn. Not cheap, but I wouldn't trade it. If you have the room I recommend the journey. If you are like me, eventually you will wonder how you ever did without.

[yondering]

Aint no such thing as a free lathe. That's a lot like a "free" horse.


In other news, entrepreneurs have discovered the fastest way to become a millionaire - start with ten million and take up machining as a hobby.

[Reading]

In other news, entrepreneurs have discovered the fastest way to become a millionaire - start with ten million and take up machining as a hobby.

^^^This guy^^^

... If you have the room I recommend the journey. If you are like me, eventually you will wonder how you ever did without.

I do feel sometimes as if I have missed out on something. Electronics is cool and all, but it isn't quite....REAL. Machining is doing s--t to real s--t. Fingers crossed for the HPA. Grizzly will do a land office business in lathes and lathe/mill combos...

No, finer threads are stronger per inch of threads. The downside to fine threads is that they're easier to cross thread and they require more turns to tighten.

Ahh, that makes sense. Thanks for unF(**&&^ me on that....

1. If you are going to use SDTA tubes, end caps, then use their muzzle breaks. They are cheaper and work. That will allow you to put any can on any weapon.

I like this answer. It saves me money.

2. You won't notice a difference between 1.5 and 1.625 O.D.
20 or 24 tpi...same thing. TBAC and others use 24 tpi.

TBAC?? Not familiar with this...

3. No reason.

OK, a vanilla/chocolate thing then. Cool.

Thanks for the input guys, this has helped move me from top dead center. Have had the stamps for months now and chasing my tail like a little....twit....or...something.

Stuff on the way, motors winding up, credit cards cringing, rifles looking....apprehensive. All is right in the world...

[garredondojr]

TBAC is thunder beast arms company. basically one of the top tier manufactures