Baffle to tube clearance

[Wesada]

What is an acceptable tolerance for baffle clearance to the outer tube? I understand that .060 is considered standard for bullet clearance but let's say a baffle has a .005 gap between it and the tube body. Is this factored into the +.060 bullet clearance already or should it be added to that figure and say given a +.065 bullet clearance to compensate? Also is there a point at which baffle to tube clearance becomes unacceptable like for example .010? Thanks.

[Smokey]

What is an acceptable tolerance for baffle clearance to the outer tube? I understand that .060 is considered standard for bullet clearance but let's say a baffle has a .005 gap between it and the tube body. Is this factored into the +.060 bullet clearance already or should it be added to that figure and say given a +.065 bullet clearance to compensate? Also is there a point at which baffle to tube clearance becomes unacceptable like for example .010? Thanks.

What type of baffles are you making and what caliber are you shooting?

[Wesada]

What type of baffles are you making and what caliber are you shooting?

K baffles for 9mm.

[Smokey]

What type of baffles are you making and what caliber are you shooting?

K baffles for 9mm.

So then you are not dealing with the pressures of a rifle cartridge. That makes your life easier. The short answer is I go with .005 or so clearance, so if your have a 1.375 tube, the baffles are 1.37. But it depends on how you interlock your baffles.

I started out with baffles modeled on the ones that JM Performance Fittings sells, but was able to test those to destruction pretty easy. Higher pressures mean a better method of interlocking.

You making all this yourself or buying it?

[partsguy22]

What type of baffles are you making and what caliber are you shooting?

K baffles for 9mm.

.005" is a good place to start however keep in mind since most K-baffles expose the ...?Coaxial? part to the tube, so if you get buildup there it can make disassembly more difficult
this can be overcome by adding a little more clearance and having the baffles interlock or using "nesting" baffles or even tube liners

ETA: as far as to much clearance in theory there could be as much tube to baffle clearance as you want as long as the baffles arn't located by the tube i.e. interlocking baffles held indexed by recesses the end caps (the baffle stack held floating in compression between the caps) ..that being said I'm not sure how that would effect suppression buy as far as alignment it would be fineers

[Wesada]

I have some purchased baffles and a tube to mate with an AAC booster. Baffles are incomplete of course but they don't have an interlocking method and I don't know if there's a practical way to give them one. They're fairly basic as far as K baffles go. I will need to mic them both again as I forget what the diameters were.

[CMV]

I read here over and over .005" clearance. And that's what I did for my first several. And they are a bear to get the guts out after just a moderate amount of shooting. (all might be that way...I have no idea since I only own my form1 stuff and not commercial suppressors). So on one build I decided to see what would happen if I opened that up a little and went to .008"? I'm a hobbyist on hobbyist type equipment so +/- 1 thou is incredibly accurate for me. So that means end result was some with .007, some up to .009" clearance. I noticed no ill effect from it. Noticeably easier to get the guts out, but sounds as good as I expected. My 300BLK with that clearance compares favorably to a nice commercial can, so I don't think it hurt a thing.

[hardcase]

This may not be an applicable point but I have to use the pipe enclosed with my Liberty Mystic and Cosmic to pound out the mono-core to clean the thing. I'd say tighter fit than a condom Even when it is cleaned out with steel wool on a cleaning rod and put back it is a tight fit.