• Drilling Misshap

Posted: **Tue Jun 11, 2019 4:59 pm**

The problem is everything I said is a 100% correct and you just can't accept the fact that I'm right and yes I disagree with you that a Austintic stainless steel that is non hardable will not work harden

Posted: **Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:49 am**

Austintic? You don't say

Posted: **Wed Jun 12, 2019 1:22 pm**

T-Rex wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:49 am Austintic? You don't say

Right? Lol.

I guarantee dude wasn't even aware of the word until I dissected his first post. Now he's pretty much just engaging in the internet version of a monkey throwing poo.

Posted: **Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:02 pm**

I have never heard of the word " Austintic". What does it mean? Do you mean "Austenitic" ?

Posted: **Thu Jun 13, 2019 6:13 am**

alordnapa wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:02 pm Do you mean "Austenitic" ?

Posted: **Thu Jun 13, 2019 10:17 pm**

Some just can’t admit when they are wrong or don’t know something. This isn’t the place for that type.

Posted: **Wed Nov 27, 2019 4:28 am**

What's a good usable size hole to put in a baffle washer for a silencer on a .22 air rifle? Now obviously it needs to be bigger than a .22 pellet (5.5mm) so I was thinking 6mm would do it but I've never made one before so I thought I'd ask.
Thanks all

Posted: **Wed Nov 27, 2019 7:41 am**

You'd need to go bigger than that. I've heard as small as .040" over bullet diameter is a place to start if you can accurately keep things centered.

Posted: **Wed Nov 27, 2019 9:56 am**

I used 0.25" for anything longer than about 4" for a couple of years, but found that accuracy suffered a bit due to surface effects. Of course alignment is critical with any hole size to avoid clipping the baffles with the pellet, but provided your concentricity with the barrel bore is pretty much perfect I think 0.28" is fine for a .22" pellet.

Posted: **Thu Nov 28, 2019 11:43 am**

AbbandonZK wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2017 10:17 pm I started drilling my baffles this week with the help of a friend. This friend has a degree in metallurgy and offered to help drill out the baffles with a bench-drill. I left to go buy a hacksaw and came back to him drilling the cones and spraying WD-40 into them to cool off the drill. He had already gone thru 3 drill bits before I stopped him. It appears I need to do the drilling myself. I've ordered new bits and I need to know a few things.
What RPM to use when drilling these out?
The best size pilot hole for a 23/64 final hole?
Are these cones beyond use even if I bore them out to .410 which is the size of the cones plateau?

The damage in the pictures was done at 720RPM and the slowest drill press I can find goes down to 300 RPM.
The baffles look like this now

The smaller the bit, the higher the rpm. Have you considered step bits?

Posted: **Thu Nov 28, 2019 7:15 pm**

Been a few days since the OP posted.

I'm sure he got something figured out.

Posted: **Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:08 am**

Forgive if using a center drill has been mentioned before but
pleasant afterglow from a most enjoyable Thanksgiving
feast precluded reading carefully ... if guys really ever
read instructions 'carefully' anyway.

"Center drills are intended to be used to create a hole suitable for a lathe center.
They have a 2 part tip that has a small pilot as well as the larger countersinking area of the bit.
While center drills are available more cheaply than spot drills, they have some disadvantages."

I use them prior to drilling on Delta Rockwell floor drill press to great success.

Not only for tapping but drilling/parting accurately in SS on lathe suggest
Castrol Moly-Dee CF (Variocut C) Cutting Tapping Fluid (MOLY-D)

Useful chart:
<< https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/I_ ... MChart.pdf >>

And like a broken record ( 'did this guy step out of a 1940's time machine?

)
recommend Drill Doctor to sharpen drill prior to use is a 'cuss saver'.

Real machinists with talent use bench grinders.

Posted: **Fri Dec 06, 2019 1:25 am**

Weldingbiker wrote: ↑Tue Jun 11, 2019 4:59 pm The problem is everything I said is a 100% correct and you just can't accept the fact that I'm right and yes I disagree with you that a Austintic stainless steel that is non hardable will not work harden

I have some recently acquired 17-4 PH cups and spacers, that look and test just like 304 SS, I will sell to you

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