Would it better to have say 20 or 30 baffles(steel formed freeze plugs) that are 1.79 inches in diameter(not sure of tube diameter) vs 12 60 degree 416 stainless comes that are 1.350 inches in diameter?
The tube I'm talking about Is the stainless steel tube from gunthread adapters and the freeze plug I don't know.
Vs
Apogee products stainless steel tube and zmachineworx cones
Better as in decibels and also longevity(over the course of its life and what would completely be destroyed in a meltdown).
Calibers all the way from really hot 45-70 and 338 lapua to 300 blackout subsonic(with the correct spacers of course).
More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Freeze plugs + 338 lapua = a bad idea
If you plan to build 338 can, build it with a huge blast chamber, it should really be dedicated to that caliber. You won't fit 30 freeze plugs and a blast chamber in there.
If you plan to build 338 can, build it with a huge blast chamber, it should really be dedicated to that caliber. You won't fit 30 freeze plugs and a blast chamber in there.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Easy, just make the can longer.fishman wrote:... You won't fit 30 freeze plugs and a blast chamber in there.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Really? What steel are free plugs usually made of? Is it comparable to 416 ss?fishman wrote:Freeze plugs + 338 lapua = a bad idea
If you plan to build 338 can, build it with a huge blast chamber, it should really be dedicated to that caliber. You won't fit 30 freeze plugs and a blast chamber in there.
I figure given how thick they are and the increased surface area and volume would compensate for the lower quality steel.
what should be the blast chamber size?
Both builds, the freeze plug 1.79 ID tube and the 17-4 60 degree cones 1.350 tube?
the reason I'd like to use freeze plugs is because there isn't really a source for 60 degree cones for that diameter. Even if there were I bet they'd cost quite a bit.
Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
They're probably made of s--t steel unless people are making then specifically for silencers.
At best, they'll be made of a grade of stainless that's corrosion resistant instead of strong.
As for blast chamber sizing, there's a lot of variables that go into that. Material of your blast baffle, spacer, and tube included.
At best, they'll be made of a grade of stainless that's corrosion resistant instead of strong.
As for blast chamber sizing, there's a lot of variables that go into that. Material of your blast baffle, spacer, and tube included.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Do you have any idea how it would compare to milled 416 stainless in terms of strength?fishman wrote:They're probably made of s--t steel unless people are making then specifically for silencers.
At best, they'll be made of a grade of stainless that's corrosion resistant instead of strong.
As for blast chamber sizing, there's a lot of variables that go into that. Material of your blast baffle, spacer, and tube included.
Well for the 1.79 tube it will be stainless steel(from gunthreadadapters) and the baffles will be probably some dorman(shaped ones sold on eBay and this one company that sells a lot of solvent trap stuff).
For the other tube it's from apogee products and baffles are 17-4 stainless steel with the first couple being "best treated" reason for me saying that is I'm unsure how best treated they are. I heated them to about 1100 degrees for a while and then water quenched them once.
Not sure for tube material but it's .071 inches in thickness I think. Spacer will either be some stainless steel or titanium.
Barrel length is(for 338 is 24 inches), 308 is also that or 20 inches, 556 from 10.5 to 20 and 16 458 socom.
Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Heating a metal to about x temperature for a while really does nothing you can rely on. And 17-4 is NOT water quenching material. You need to control temperatures to plus or minus 15 to 25 degrees for heat treating for the specified amount of time.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Did I damage the baffles? It was just a few so no loss but would be good to know.jnjproto wrote:Heating a metal to about x temperature for a while really does nothing you can rely on. And 17-4 is NOT water quenching material. You need to control temperatures to plus or minus 15 to 25 degrees for heat treating for the specified amount of time.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
A quick google search for 45mm freeze plugs came up with this: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-7349-555-098.aspx
based on the thickness shown, 30 stacked would be 13.2" by themselves. There's only mention of "steel", nothing about "stainless steel" anywhere. I haven't changed a freeze plug since the late 70's but back then we had to replace them because they rusted through.
It's be neat to see how well the mild steel holds up to the pressure of a 338. Take pictures!
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Closed End Diameter: 1.774 In.
Describe Type: Cup Type
Material: Steel
Open End Diameter (in): 1.792 In.
based on the thickness shown, 30 stacked would be 13.2" by themselves. There's only mention of "steel", nothing about "stainless steel" anywhere. I haven't changed a freeze plug since the late 70's but back then we had to replace them because they rusted through.
It's be neat to see how well the mild steel holds up to the pressure of a 338. Take pictures!
Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Why are you building instead of buying? If youre doing it just to save money, you're wasting your time mixing 338 and freeze plugs. Freeze plugs will handle 308 but they just aren't ideal for anything, especially without a proper blast baffle, and especially if you plan on rapid firing. I'm guessing that most guys running freeze plugs don't care if they wear because they just illegally swap them out.
If you're building because you want a DIY project, then find access to a lathe and do it right.
Do you have a form pending or in hand yet? If not, you'd be better off having a custom builder make you something if you can't get lathe access.
My $0.02
If you're building because you want a DIY project, then find access to a lathe and do it right.
Do you have a form pending or in hand yet? If not, you'd be better off having a custom builder make you something if you can't get lathe access.
My $0.02
300 blackout form 1: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137293
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Yes I'm doing it to save money.fishman wrote:Why are you building instead of buying? If youre doing it just to save money, you're wasting your time mixing 338 and freeze plugs. Freeze plugs will handle 308 but they just aren't ideal for anything, especially without a proper blast baffle, and especially if you plan on rapid firing. I'm guessing that most guys running freeze plugs don't care if they wear because they just illegally swap them out.
If you're building because you want a DIY project, then find access to a lathe and do it right.
Do you have a form pending or in hand yet? If not, you'd be better off having a custom builder make you something if you can't get lathe access.
My $0.02
Like I said I could use zmachineworx 60 degree cups made from 17-4 ss but the reason I'm considering going the freeze plug route is because I could get a larger diameter tube and I'd have more baffles. There are some longer 304 stainless steel baffles with a 114 degree inner cone, I'm guessing they're formed as well and not machined.
From those two options I'd just like to get the best bang for the buck - In terms of decibel reduction and longevity.
I already have a couple pager products tubes and the 60 degree cone cups(no end caps yet) but I recently discovered the stainless steel Napa 4003 tubes and they're about the same price as the 1.350 apogee tubes.
yes I don't have access to a lathe nor the knowledge or experience on how to use one.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
since you dont have a lathe, you would be wise to purchase a factory built suppressor. There going to cost more than freeze plugs and a tube but you will be far better off in the long run.
Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
Aren't there 1.625" kits? Rusty makes storage cups for 1.625" tubes I believe.
Honestly, a kit build (especially one done without a lathe) is going to have poor enough tolerances to introduce inaccuracy. Assuming your 338 is a long range precision setup, that's not what you want; you want a fully welded can with no moving parts. For everything that isn't a sniper rifle, it's not really an issue.
My advice: build a general purpose can for everything except 338 and/or buy a "real" 338 can.
Honestly, a kit build (especially one done without a lathe) is going to have poor enough tolerances to introduce inaccuracy. Assuming your 338 is a long range precision setup, that's not what you want; you want a fully welded can with no moving parts. For everything that isn't a sniper rifle, it's not really an issue.
My advice: build a general purpose can for everything except 338 and/or buy a "real" 338 can.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
The only way to know if you damaged them is to test the hardness.
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
You will give up.some suppression on any can for 45 caliber when used on smaller calibers. I have built several cans for the caibees 458 and smallet. Here is one example.Hannibalbarca wrote:Yes I'm doing it to save money.fishman wrote:Why are you building instead of buying? If youre doing it just to save money, you're wasting your time mixing 338 and freeze plugs. Freeze plugs will handle 308 but they just aren't ideal for anything, especially without a proper blast baffle, and especially if you plan on rapid firing. I'm guessing that most guys running freeze plugs don't care if they wear because they just illegally swap them out.
If you're building because you want a DIY project, then find access to a lathe and do it right.
Do you have a form pending or in hand yet? If not, you'd be better off having a custom builder make you something if you can't get lathe access.
My $0.02
Like I said I could use zmachineworx 60 degree cups made from 17-4 ss but the reason I'm considering going the freeze plug route is because I could get a larger diameter tube and I'd have more baffles. There are some longer 304 stainless steel baffles with a 114 degree inner cone, I'm guessing they're formed as well and not machined.
From those two options I'd just like to get the best bang for the buck - In terms of decibel reduction and longevity.
I already have a couple pager products tubes and the 60 degree cone cups(no end caps yet) but I recently discovered the stainless steel Napa 4003 tubes and they're about the same price as the 1.350 apogee tubes.
yes I don't have access to a lathe nor the knowledge or experience on how to use one.
This is a 1.625 od x 9.5 long tube.
https://youtu.be/vTg5hx41gM0
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
My suggestion is to not waste your time and money doing freeze plugs. I tried them just for $hit$ and giggles, and one magazine on my 13" barreled post sample .308 turned the formed cone inside out on the first two baffles.
There's a reason we use machined 17-4 & Inconel 718 for blast baffles
There's a reason we use machined 17-4 & Inconel 718 for blast baffles
FFL07/02SOT Gunsmith & Machinist
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Re: More baffles and volume vs better baffle shape
I went with 17-4 ss baffles and some titanium ones.ECCO Machine wrote:My suggestion is to not waste your time and money doing freeze plugs. I tried them just for $hit$ and giggles, and one magazine on my 13" barreled post sample .308 turned the formed cone inside out on the first two baffles.
There's a reason we use machined 17-4 & Inconel 718 for blast baffles
I have some left over d cell freeze plugs and two titanium baffles. I'll use them in a small 300 blackout 5.5 carbon steel or 6 ss inch suppressor.