I've finished most of everything except for the openings into the outside cavities of the baffles.
Looking down the baffle stack it seems that my baffles have a lot of surface area along the bore, I don't believe this would be the most effective way to disrupt gas flow.
What kind of cuts should I make to improve my design? Thanks!
(ETA) Can specs.
-45ACP
-1.5OD/1.36ID Titanium tube.
-Blast baffle 17-4ph M baffle
-7qty (X cross section) 7075 baffles.
Baffle bore surface area.
Re: Baffle bore surface area.
Your work looks really good.
One thing that you may consider trying, where the faces are somewhat angled around the outside lip of the bore.
Use one of the 60* pointed cutters and cut a V groove into the face of the baffle. Or multiple grooves even.
It doesn't even have to be very deep. But every groove you make is going to disrupt some of the gas. Your baffles look good, but everything is relatively smooth.
Rough those surfaces up however you can. The more the merrier.
The photo below isn't exactly the same baffle type that you are using (kind of mirrored/opposite really), but maybe this photo will maybe help explain some of what I am referring to.
This baffle face may look like a stepped cone, which I guess in some ways it is, but each step isn't really a step. It's a groove that started out on the face of a cone.
One thing that you may consider trying, where the faces are somewhat angled around the outside lip of the bore.
Use one of the 60* pointed cutters and cut a V groove into the face of the baffle. Or multiple grooves even.
It doesn't even have to be very deep. But every groove you make is going to disrupt some of the gas. Your baffles look good, but everything is relatively smooth.
Rough those surfaces up however you can. The more the merrier.
The photo below isn't exactly the same baffle type that you are using (kind of mirrored/opposite really), but maybe this photo will maybe help explain some of what I am referring to.
This baffle face may look like a stepped cone, which I guess in some ways it is, but each step isn't really a step. It's a groove that started out on the face of a cone.
I don't care what your chart says
Re: Baffle bore surface area.
Parallel to the bore, plunge an endmill into the front edge of the bore.
Usually people design their k baffles with the scoop cuts and waist ports in mind. They aren't usually, and shouldnt be, an afterthought.
Usually people design their k baffles with the scoop cuts and waist ports in mind. They aren't usually, and shouldnt be, an afterthought.
300 blackout form 1: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137293
5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
- Enfield577
- Silent But Deadly
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Re: Baffle bore surface area.
Hi,
The parallel centre sections do look quite long and might promote the gas to flow through rather than dissipate inside the can, maybe you could cut them a bit shorter? In addition to that you want to add the ports (from the front and rear) with a Ball nose cutter about the same dia. as the bore, they need to be 180 degrees opposed .
See picture of some that I have made.
Great work though well done to get this far.
The parallel centre sections do look quite long and might promote the gas to flow through rather than dissipate inside the can, maybe you could cut them a bit shorter? In addition to that you want to add the ports (from the front and rear) with a Ball nose cutter about the same dia. as the bore, they need to be 180 degrees opposed .
See picture of some that I have made.
Great work though well done to get this far.
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
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- Silent But Deadly
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- Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2017 5:34 pm
Re: Baffle bore surface area.
I'd reduce the length of those stems to about half of what they are, and with an angle that comes to a pretty sharp edge at the rear. I'd also punch a 1/4" end mill through them, centered on the bore OD. 90° to that, I'd make a 3/8" vent, and use a ball nose to create a scoop on the opposite side. But that's just me, and I don't do K baffles anyway, so take it for what it's worth.
FFL07/02SOT Gunsmith & Machinist