Reverse two stage

[propeine]

Say that one had a handguard, and the muzzle was ~4" behind the front of the handguard. ID of handguard is 1.73" and OD is ~2" Has anyone seen a sort of reverse 2 stage can with the smaller end at the muzzle of the gun and larger end further forward? I'm thinking about making something that goes from 1.625" to 2" for 9mm.

ETA it is going on this...it will not be a true SD ever

[T-Rex]

Just make a small brake, to port the initial gas release into the rear portion and you can use the forward length for baffles. Almost typical reflex design.

[ECCO Machine]

Say that one had a handguard, and the muzzle was ~4" behind the front of the handguard. ID of handguard is 1.73" and OD is ~2" Has anyone seen a sort of reverse 2 stage can with the smaller end at the muzzle of the gun and larger end further forward? I'm thinking about making something that goes from 1.625" to 2" for 9mm.

Why? You're going to reach a point of diminishing returns with a bulky, heavy can that doesn't do much to further reduce noise. Try a .223 can on a .22LR compared to a dedicated rimfire can and you'll see what I mean. After 30-35 dB reduction, the size of can starts becoming inversely proportionate to the muffling effect, where you may double the internal volume and only realize 2 or 3 dB less report.

There's a reason most commercial suppressors intended for a given caliber are within a finite size range, save for the shorties/compacts that really are meant to take the edge off rather than make it hearing safe. Hearing safe (dry) 9mm cans are pretty well all gonna be 1.375" to 1.500" OD and 6"-8" long. Integrals are an exception, but there's more going on there with most designs than just increased volume; the really effective ones are attached to ported barrels which lower velocity and pressure in a separate chamber before the bullet ever enters the actual suppressor.


Instead of trying to make a huge, cavernous chamber, focus your efforts on good baffle/core design and light weight so you'll have a can you can be proud of and enjoy using for the rest of your life on more than one firearm. Think the aforementioned 1.375" or 1.5" diameter by 6.5" to 8" long with gr. 9 titanium housing and gr. 5 Ti or 17-4 stainless guts.

[propeine]

Say that one had a handguard, and the muzzle was ~4" behind the front of the handguard. ID of handguard is 1.73" and OD is ~2" Has anyone seen a sort of reverse 2 stage can with the smaller end at the muzzle of the gun and larger end further forward? I'm thinking about making something that goes from 1.625" to 2" for 9mm.

Why? You're going to reach a point of diminishing returns with a bulky, heavy can that doesn't do much to further reduce noise. Try a .223 can on a .22LR compared to a dedicated rimfire can and you'll see what I mean. After 30-35 dB reduction, the size of can starts becoming inversely proportionate to the muffling effect, where you may double the internal volume and only realize 2 or 3 dB less report.

There's a reason most commercial suppressors intended for a given caliber are within a finite size range, save for the shorties/compacts that really are meant to take the edge off rather than make it hearing safe. Hearing safe (dry) 9mm cans are pretty well all gonna be 1.375" to 1.500" OD and 6"-8" long. Integrals are an exception, but there's more going on there with most designs than just increased volume; the really effective ones are attached to ported barrels which lower velocity and pressure in a separate chamber before the bullet ever enters the actual suppressor.


Instead of trying to make a huge, cavernous chamber, focus your efforts on good baffle/core design and light weight so you'll have a can you can be proud of and enjoy using for the rest of your life on more than one firearm. Think the aforementioned 1.375" or 1.5" diameter by 6.5" to 8" long with gr. 9 titanium housing and gr. 5 Ti or 17-4 stainless guts.

I've got the "standard" already. 1.375x8" full of titanium K baffles. Goes well on the 1911 I built and with the other 3 titanium cans I've built. Pistol cal cans are 1.375 because it is a good balance of not blocking the sights and suppression not because it is maximum dB reduction. Also because they generally go on pistols and need boosters/balance. This is going on an SBR.

This is gun specific but needs to be removable for USPSA which is why there isn't a ported barrel. As for heavy it's 13oz if all Ti and just a hair over 8oz if all aluminum. Bulky maybe but that's not heavy. Bulky isn't even necessarily true because the handguard is 2" as well and stops ~3.5" before the end of the can. It needs to be 7.5" long in this appication and will be either 1.625" and stepped up to 2" if there is suppression to be gained or 1.625" all the way to the end.

[fishman]

Just make a can that's 1.625" all the way down. The difference in diameter probably wont provide enough results to warrant the extra weight and machining complexity.

[propeine]

Just make a can that's 1.625" all the way down. The difference in diameter probably wont provide enough results to warrant the extra weight and machining complexity.

You know what this is for right fish? I'm well past the rabbit hole of machining/complexity haha.

[fishman]

Haha good point. What type of handguard are you using? Why are you opposed to shooting it without the silencer installed with barrel ports? I'd do a ported integral and just shoot it without the can in any PCC events.

[propeine]

Haha good point. What type of handguard are you using? Why are you opposed to shooting it without the silencer installed with barrel ports? I'd do a ported integral and just shoot it without the can in any PCC events.

Walnut handguard hopefully. I would have to keep the tube on at a minimum and just take out the baffles.

[fishman]

Haha good point. What type of handguard are you using? Why are you opposed to shooting it without the silencer installed with barrel ports? I'd do a ported integral and just shoot it without the can in any PCC events.

Walnut handguard hopefully. I would have to keep the tube on at a minimum and just take out the baffles.

Cant you make a blast sheild that you can put on when the silencer isnt on?

[propeine]

Haha good point. What type of handguard are you using? Why are you opposed to shooting it without the silencer installed with barrel ports? I'd do a ported integral and just shoot it without the can in any PCC events.

Walnut handguard hopefully. I would have to keep the tube on at a minimum and just take out the baffles.

Cant you make a blast sheild that you can put on when the silencer isnt on?

That sounds too easy

All kidding aside, the porting was intended to drop 115gr down to subsonic levels. I shoot 150gr cast as much as I can. Cast bullets would mess up the ported area BAD. I don't want to stock any more components and don't buy commercial ammo hardly ever. No ports for me.

[fishman]

In my ported integral 45 I use plated bullets. Cheap, yet they have a protective layer for use in silencers.

Keeping the ports away from the chamber minimises velocity loss yet still aids in suppression. My handguard is tubular aluminum so I'm not worried about firing it without the can (although I haven't yet).

I don't have a stock on it YET, but when I do, I'll definitely use it in USPSA PCC.

[propeine]

In my ported integral 45 I use plated bullets. Cheap, yet they have a protective layer for use in silencers.

Keeping the ports away from the chamber minimises velocity loss yet still aids in suppression. My handguard is tubular aluminum so I'm not worried about firing it without the can (although I haven't yet).

I don't have a stock on it YET, but when I do, I'll definitely use it in USPSA PCC.

Hard to plate bullets at home and I haven't made a set of swaging dies yet but I know what you mean. Waiting on a stamp?

[John A.]

I'm not sure what gun you're making this for, but I used a freefloated handguard tube on my integral as the suppressor body.

Even tapped some holes for movable/removable rails and such.

Adds nothing in length, only a few oz of weight added due to the baffles and spacers, has a ton of internal space to work with and sounds better than anything you'd be able to buy commercially.

It may look a little unorthodox, but that's OK. I didn't build it for looks.

[propeine]

I'm not sure what gun you're making this for, but I used a freefloated handguard tube on my integral as the suppressor body.

Even tapped some holes for movable/removable rails and such.

Adds nothing in length, only a few oz of weight added due to the baffles and spacers, has a ton of internal space to work with and sounds better than anything you'd be able to buy commercially.

It may look a little unorthodox, but that's OK. I didn't build it for looks.

That's right up my alley!

How warm does it get after say 2 mag fulls in roughly rapid fire?


I don't want to get into too many semantics just yet but there are reasons its a K gun and not a true SD.

[fishman]

Waiting on a stamp?

Saving up for a lightning link.
Idk if i'll sbr it as well. Its cheaper and easier to just leave the upper and lower apart when the LL isnt installed.

[John A.]

That's right up my alley!

How warm does it get after say 2 mag fulls in roughly rapid fire?

Barely warm at all. Even less so if you have it installed on an sbr lower and can use a vertical grip.

[Capt. Link.]

I just wanted to point out that ports that are very close to the chamber are nearly self cleaning because of the high heat and pressure.The MP5SD ported barrel is the one to copy if anyone builds a integral designed for velocity reduction. I used that basic design for several 10-22 rifles and none of them had lead clogging issues.The AWC Amphibian and the AMT .22 mag pistol are others that use very close porting with great success with each using them for different reasons.
CL

[Capt. Link.]

DERP

[partsguy22]

If I were to build it like that I'd build it like the .30 can I built with the bar stock rear end, one piece rear cap and first 4" of tube then threaded for the 2" O.D. main body