design help

[kranker1450]

Hello to all. I am new to this site and have been thinking about making a silencer. I am looking for a book or a link to a webpage that shows the different designs with dimensional drawings, materials used etc. I have been searching but have not come up with anything help. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

Krank

[ECCO Machine]

You're not gonna find tech specs open sourced with a few exceptions from those that "slipped out".

Quite a bit on Google images, including cut-aways and X-ray. Materials-wise, what you use is going to depend on your budget and capabilities. Titanium, 17-4 stainless and Inconel are very common in commercial cans, as are aluminum alloys in rimfire and pistol. I use Gr. 9 Ti housings on pretty much everything, 17-4 stainless baffles in rifle cans, 7075-T651 aluminum type II anodized in pistol and rimfire, except for stainless blast baffle.

We can help you figure out design and materials here, but you need to tell us what you're trying to accomplish first.

[kranker1450]

Thanks ecco for the information. I am in the very early stages of this adventure. I am going to do alot more reading and when I get closer to building I will bend your ear.
Thanks again for the help.

Krank

[doubloon]

... I am going to do alot more reading and when I get closer to building I will bend your ear.
...
Krank

Check my signature for a link to Wicked's completed builds thread, lots of ideas in there and quite a few drawings.

[T-Rex]

Yes, the completed builds thread is pages of silencer designs, from over a decade of builds.
Do you have design/drafting experience. It's very easy to find internet pictures and model scale drawings from them.

What are your design specs?
Caliber
Platform (pistol, fixed rifle, etc), will a booster be needed?
Full-Auto rated?
Intended materials

[Historian]

Welcome, Krank to the 'den of INEQUALITY'.

We all remember our testosterone-poisoning joy
when we first viewed and were inspired by the
images of cans as brother T-Rex points to.
<< https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/silencerporn/ >>

First, until the HPA passes, read up on the procedures that you
have to address in obtaining ATF blessing to make a can.

A $200.00 stamp is logarithmically cheaper than paying
an attorney at $500+ /hour rate to defend you in court ... unless
you are an illegal then Oakland Mayor will let you escape.

Second, Read the read outstanding books:

"Silencer: History and Performance, Volume 1: Sporting and Tactical Silencers";

"CQB, Assault Rifle and Sniper Technology (Silencer History & Performance)"
by Peter G. Kokalis (Author), N.R. Parker (Author), Alan C. Paulson (Author)

"United States Patents (Firearm Suppressor Patents) Paperback – November 1, 2004"

Third, Peruse this site for the wealth of empirical smithing information.
YouTube has many tutorials on K-Baffles for .22, etc.

Fourth, are you willing to purchase a lathe, milling machine, and a
'Snap-On' truck full of tools ... now that I think of it having all those
tools if you never make any can is not a bad thing to do. Do you
have any machining skills? If not will you take courses at local
adult education classes, etc.

Or pay $200.00 a pop for the best and most durable cans today such
as .22 DeadAir Mask*.



*Aside: Χαίρετε, Mike!
Hopefully Dead Air will someday offer a 9.5" Mask for
those loopy 'an-artillery-Luger-look' aficionados most happy to pay extra.
For does not Randall make a Sasquatch #12-11" or a #12 - 8" ?
Heck, you have to have both.

A 9.5" Mask would really be the ultimate 'pimp-out' a S&W 41
with Randall Fung Custom Grips,

e.g., << http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... ost2813620 >>

[kranker1450]

Thanks everyone for the responses. My first can will be for a 300bo AR platform. I have thinking titanium can and 17-4 baffles but that may evolve by the time I get the form 1 back. I have a taig mill and a grizzly 8x16 lathe. I am self taught on the machines. I would very much like to find a class to expand my knowledge in machining. I really enjoy building things and this looks like alot of fun so I figured why not.

Thanks again for all the info and help.

[ECCO Machine]

Thanks everyone for the responses. My first can will be for a 300bo AR platform. I have thinking titanium can and 17-4 baffles but that may evolve by the time I get the form 1 back. I have a taig mill and a grizzly 8x16 lathe. I am self taught on the machines. I would very much like to find a class to expand my knowledge in machining. I really enjoy building things and this looks like alot of fun so I figured why not.

Thanks again for all the info and help.

Well, working 17-4 on that little machine is gonna be a bit of a chore, but if you have patience, it's doable. Bore your holes for .30 cal with T size twist drill (.358") at 100-120 RPM, lube with GL4/5 (80w90). If you're using HSS cutters, you'll not want to run much faster than that for turning. Carbide can handle upwards of 500 RPM without coolant flooding.

I work 17-4 with cobalt drills and carbide inserts, mostly CNMG, TNMG & MGMN, and then CCMT for boring bars. I actually cut the outside profile of baffles with MGMN300 3mm parting inserts; less waste that way. After parting them off, I chuck them up in my baby lathe (Atlas 618) and take finish passes to desired baffle cone & skirt thickness at 1,300 RPM with CCMT boring bars and TCMT inserts followed by sanding with 400 grit.

For threading, you'll get much cleaner results with carbide inserts and turning at 350+ RPM on both the 17-4 and Ti, if you 're quick enough with disengaging your half nuts. Shouldn't be too difficult with 24 or 28 pitch threads. I like 16 IR inserts on a 3/4" bar for internal tube threading, and Top Notch top inserts for external, preferably pitch specific like NTC24RE, NTC28RE, etc. Watch your thread taper, especially on the small lathes. You may find it necessary to deepen your nominal cut as you move in to compensate for cutter deflection, especially with internal threads. That's why I run such heavy bars even for fine thread pitches. But my carriage alone weighs 3+ times what your machine does, so even if you modded a tool holder for big bars, I doubt you'd realize much benefit. You just have to take lighter cuts and lots of them.

Have you upgraded to a quick change tool post yet? Most of the insert holders for the good cutters are 16mm (5/8") and larger, which I don't think will fit your stock tool holder. But you can get oversize holders for AXA size QCTP which will accept them.