Silencerco hybrid piston mount for 9mm F1

[Lundstrom9374]

Hello, I'm looking to build my first F1 can, I was going to start with a 22 but decided to go with a 9mm that i would use more. Looking at boosters I decided to go with Silencerco hybird piston mount but i can't find any info on dimensions. I would like a Ti tube no longer then 8'' and I know the hybird is 1.57'' OD so i would guess the ID is somewhere around 1.380''. Does anyone have a hybird they can measure for me or know the measurements?

I want to make my own K baffles but I don't know how to figure out the length of them with the 60 degree angle. If there is a link somewhere to this info that would be great. I need to figure out how long my baffles will be and how long the booster is so i can figure out my OAL to put it on my form 1.

I'm thinking I can get 6 or 7 baffles in the 8 inches. My thought would to use Ti for the first 2 or 3 baffles then use Aluminum for the last 3 or 4 baffles. Is this a good idea or just go all Ti? If I do use Aluminum what is the best type to use?

You guys here are great, Thanks for any input.

[T-Rex]

I can't offer guidance on the booster dims, but if you have the ability to cut your own baffles, why not make your own booster? There are several build threads where members have done so, for reference. Not really all that involved, just turning metal. Also, you don't need more than a 1-3/8" OD. The vast majority of pistol caliber suppressors are this size.

For 9mm, all baffles can be 7075, if you want (the AAC Ti-Rant does exactly this). A lot of people like to use Ti or SS for the ease of cleaning. Any metal can be ultrasonically cleaned, but any alloy containing Al (even Ti) should avoid using "the dip".

K's can be very effective. However, from experience, they can be tough to get right for novices. You really need to use a CAD program to get them right. Get them wrong and not only will you have poor reduction performance, but you can see a wild POI shift. My last few builds, where I planned to use K's, I switched to cones. Specifically, a kind of hybrid of the type Rugged uses.

[fishman]

Agreed. Cad is pretty important for Ks. Ks are also harder to clean unless you make your baffles nest into each other (like the aac halcyon). Otherwise, they like to get stuck in the tube if you don't clean your can often.

[Lundstrom9374]

Thanks for the input. After doing some more reading I have decided to go with 60 degree cones. I still can't decided with 1.5'' or 1.375 OD tube and what booster will work and look the best.

[ECCO Machine]

Thanks for the input. After doing some more reading I have decided to go with 60 degree cones. I still can't decided with 1.5'' or 1.375 OD tube and what booster will work and look the best.

1.5" interferes with sights a lot more than 1.375". I went 1.25" OD on my 8" long Phoenix IX series, which are quieter (and lighter) than the Rugged Obsidian or SiCo Octane.

Cones definitely work better for .45, but Ks do quite well with 9mm, and are more material efficient. Or a combination; I use a heat treated 17-4 SS cone blast baffle and five anodized 7075-T651 Ks in my Phoenix IX.

Build your own booster. That way you can put it inside your can and not have the ugliness of all the form 1 stuff with a separate booster that doesn't match the body profile. Much cheaper, too.

[Lundstrom9374]

I don't trust my abilities to make my own booster and I can't find much info on how to make them. Maybe if I could fine some kind of a print or someone walk me through the design I would try it.

I think I have decided on 7 cones first two or three Ti then the rest 7075. How did you anodize your cones?

[fishman]

Cones definitely work better for .45, but Ks do quite well with 9mm

The aac tirant45 and tirant45m perform fantastic from everything I read.

[ECCO Machine]

I don't trust my abilities to make my own booster and I can't find much info on how to make them. Maybe if I could fine some kind of a print or someone walk me through the design I would try it.

I think I have decided on 7 cones first two or three Ti then the rest 7075. How did you anodize your cones?

I/we can walk you through the booster, it ain't difficult. I'd suggest patterning it on an existing piston design, unless you want to make them all.

On anodizing, first the parts get cleaned, anything from dish soap & water to degreaser to Lye, depending on whether it's freshly machined, fairly clean or downright nasty. Some things also get bead blasted. I anodize type II with a 40 amp 0-48 volt DC inverter in a 15% hydrochloric acid solution between 50°-70° F. I use aluminum bus bars with gr. 3 Ti wire for the "rack". The time in the solution just depends on the part, the alloy and how thick I want the anodic layer. I try to maintain in the 20-24V range. Next they get rinsed again in distilled water, then placed in the dye bath @ 140° F for a bit. Rinse again, plop them in near-boiling water (190°-200° F) for 30 min, dry and done.

Cones definitely work better for .45, but Ks do quite well with 9mm

The aac tirant45 and tirant45m perform fantastic from everything I read.

They're OK. I did a lot of experimenting, found that cones worked much better than Ks in the same size can for .45. For 9mm, it was about a toss up. I wish Ks worked well, as they use less material and take less time on account of needing fewer.

[T-Rex]

I agree, match an existing piston design so you have the option of buying commercially available parts. The exterior design is all your imagination.

As for anodizing, I:
Degrease everything
Rinse in Distilled H2O
Soak in etch solution for 2min, give or take (I substitute Draino Crystals in place of Lye, 1 Tablespoon to 2 cups Distilled H2O)
Rinse in Distilled H2O
Place in Anodizing bath (I use pH Down, instead of H2SO4. 10 Tablespoons to every 3 Cups Tap H2O) Keep bath near room temp
I use a 24Vdc power supply rated at 10A, w/ Aluminum bars and copper cables. I use Aluminum wire for hanging parts in bath.
Temp is going to be an hour or more. Look for a yellow tint appearing on the parts. It's not always there, but usually is.
Rinse in cold Distilled H2O
Soak in dye bathe for an hour or more. (I did away w/ the heated dye as my results weren't as consistent. I've heard of people using AC current to aid in the dye bath)
Rinse in cold Distilled H2O (repeat dye bath if more color needed)
Soak in boiling water for min

Don't be afraid to experiment with Aluminum flat stock from Home Depot, Lowes, Tractor Supply, Menards, etc.

[Morgan321]

Does anyone have a hybird they can measure for me or know the measurements?

I don't have mine handy, but as I remember the threads are 1.375 OD and I think they were 24tpi(maybe 28?) and the piston housing shoulders against the end of the silencer body.

It would be very simple to build a monocore or tube/baffle can to use it.