Clipping baffles without a mil
Clipping baffles without a mil
I have some 17-4 baffles is there a wiz bang method for clipping the baffle without access to a milling machine. Best Idea I have so far is a carbide bur in a rotary tool, which as you can see isn't exactly a great plan. I have a surface plate and a height gauge to do decent layout.
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Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
I don't have any particular expertise, so get your salt can out and dig out the biggest grain in there.
Drill press with an end mill bit installed? Make your setup to clip one side at a time on each baffle, then change your setup to clip the other side of each baffle. Or, maybe two steps for each side, using a drill to remove most of the material and an end mill bit to finish?
Create a holder for your rotary tool to work with your surface plate and only allow you to move the tool horizontally?
Drill press with an end mill bit installed? Make your setup to clip one side at a time on each baffle, then change your setup to clip the other side of each baffle. Or, maybe two steps for each side, using a drill to remove most of the material and an end mill bit to finish?
Create a holder for your rotary tool to work with your surface plate and only allow you to move the tool horizontally?
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
That's asking for trouble. Drill presses are not designed to handle sideways load. Whatever method of feeding the part into mill will be extremely flexible in comparison to a real mill. 17-4 is a very tough alloy.
Youre probably better off with the burr.
I'd send them to an 07/02 and have them clip them for you.
Youre probably better off with the burr.
I'd send them to an 07/02 and have them clip them for you.
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Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
You could create some fixtures, to keep everything steady and aligned. This would most likely prove to be more work than it's worth, with the other available options. As fishman said, drill presses, at least your ordinary homeowner type, aren't designed for milling operations. If you have anything other than a robust unit, I'd forego the inevitably under par results. Sending them to an SOT isn't a bad idea either. You've bought a parts kit, probably due to lack of experience and tooling. Just get it finished by someone well equipped to do so.
At the end of all this, if you really need to do it at home, with a rotary tool; take some time and make a couple jigs. You'll be happier in the end.
At the end of all this, if you really need to do it at home, with a rotary tool; take some time and make a couple jigs. You'll be happier in the end.
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Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
I was thinking that the drill press would be used working straight down, not side-loading the drill. I wasn't at all clear about that.
For my own education, is there a reason this (using the drill press correctly) would be a bad idea? I suppose it would leave a radiused edge rather than square, anything else? (Burrs, chatter, etc.?)
For my own education, is there a reason this (using the drill press correctly) would be a bad idea? I suppose it would leave a radiused edge rather than square, anything else? (Burrs, chatter, etc.?)
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
Chatter, drill presses are not at all ridged in the x,y, direction. Also they dont run very true and end mill dont like to weeble wobble.tootalltom wrote:I was thinking that the drill press would be used working straight down, not side-loading the drill. I wasn't at all clear about that.
For my own education, is there a reason this (using the drill press correctly) would be a bad idea? I suppose it would leave a radiused edge rather than square, anything else? (Burrs, chatter, etc.?)
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
I have a lathe and I had considered rigging up some sort of live tooling, and I might end up doing that or even better once I move into my new house buying a milling machine but people want 5k for a clapped out Chinese mill from the 80's around here.T-Rex wrote:You could create some fixtures, to keep everything steady and aligned. This would most likely prove to be more work than it's worth, with the other available options. As fishman said, drill presses, at least your ordinary homeowner type, aren't designed for milling operations. If you have anything other than a robust unit, I'd forego the inevitably under par results. Sending them to an SOT isn't a bad idea either. You've bought a parts kit, probably due to lack of experience and tooling. Just get it finished by someone well equipped to do so.
At the end of all this, if you really need to do it at home, with a rotary tool; take some time and make a couple jigs. You'll be happier in the end.
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
Do we have any SOT's around here who would be willing to do this type of work?joe0121 wrote:I have a lathe and I had considered rigging up some sort of live tooling, and I might end up doing that or even better once I move into my new house buying a milling machine but people want 5k for a clapped out Chinese mill from the 80's around here.T-Rex wrote:You could create some fixtures, to keep everything steady and aligned. This would most likely prove to be more work than it's worth, with the other available options. As fishman said, drill presses, at least your ordinary homeowner type, aren't designed for milling operations. If you have anything other than a robust unit, I'd forego the inevitably under par results. Sending them to an SOT isn't a bad idea either. You've bought a parts kit, probably due to lack of experience and tooling. Just get it finished by someone well equipped to do so.
At the end of all this, if you really need to do it at home, with a rotary tool; take some time and make a couple jigs. You'll be happier in the end.
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Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
It's also dangerous. Most drill press chucks use a Jacob's taper mount, which can easily come loose with a lateral load, flinging your chuck and whatever tool is in it at you.joe0121 wrote:Chatter, drill presses are not at all ridged in the x,y, direction. Also they dont run very true and end mill dont like to weeble wobble.tootalltom wrote:I was thinking that the drill press would be used working straight down, not side-loading the drill. I wasn't at all clear about that.
For my own education, is there a reason this (using the drill press correctly) would be a bad idea? I suppose it would leave a radiused edge rather than square, anything else? (Burrs, chatter, etc.?)
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Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
How about using a tool grinder or Dremel tool holder on your lathe, with the part chucked up? Its a relatively small tool investment.
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
This was my second idea. But in a rotary tool attached to the cross slide. Baffle in the Chuck locked into back gears. Heck zip ties would even work for a temporary setup. I should Google manual lathe diy live tooling and see what I get.alordnapa wrote:How about using a tool grinder or Dremel tool holder on your lathe, with the part chucked up? Its a relatively small tool investment.
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
joe0121 wrote:This was my second idea. But in a rotary tool attached to the cross slide. Baffle in the Chuck locked into back gears. Heck zip ties would even work for a temporary setup. I should Google manual lathe diy live tooling and see what I get.alordnapa wrote:How about using a tool grinder or Dremel tool holder on your lathe, with the part chucked up? Its a relatively small tool investment.
Like this if you have a lathe. Don't make it harder than it is. Make a holder for your boring bar holder or tool post. Preferably use a collet chuck to hold the mill.
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
How precise does it really need to be? I'm thinking chain saw file to clip a cone, or drill a hole in a block of wood to hold the base steady and use the top of the wood as a file guide. You're doing this as a one off, on maybe 6-10 baffles...using the lathe or a mill is great but a steady hand with a file can do surprisingly good work.
Option 2 in my mind was a grinder. Lots of baffle clips are just taking a straight cut across 1/3 or so of one side. You could do that with a bench grinder or handheld in the Dremel...again with a healthy dose of patience and something to hold the cone.
Option 2 in my mind was a grinder. Lots of baffle clips are just taking a straight cut across 1/3 or so of one side. You could do that with a bench grinder or handheld in the Dremel...again with a healthy dose of patience and something to hold the cone.
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Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
Or a flat file...
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
Propane, my compliments on your clever use of the OXA 2MT ER collet tool holder.propeine wrote:joe0121 wrote:This was my second idea. But in a rotary tool attached to the cross slide. Baffle in the Chuck locked into back gears. Heck zip ties would even work for a temporary setup. I should Google manual lathe diy live tooling and see what I get.alordnapa wrote:How about using a tool grinder or Dremel tool holder on your lathe, with the part chucked up? Its a relatively small tool investment.
Like this if you have a lathe. Don't make it harder than it is. Make a holder for your boring bar holder or tool post. Preferably use a collet chuck to hold the mill.
I shall be using the dual set up of holding miller in the head stock with my
2MT ER25 collets and the work piece using my ER40 2MT collet set up
in the OXA holder.
So many uses envisioned that further extends the capabilities of my
'a door-stop' small 618 lathe.
Thank you.
Re: Clipping baffles without a mil
Thanks guys, I bought a really nice shop made machinist vice on ebay, and a noga deburr tools. I will try the grinder idea first. Im in contract for a new house so my lathe and tools is all packed up. TBH that lathe setup essentially making a 2 axis milling attachment I think is the real winner. I'll see if I can get acceptable results with the grinder route and report back.