How to remove pinned fake suppressor to be able to use factory barrel...

[eseaton]

Is it feasible to remove a blind pinned fake suppressor from a factory threaded barrel?
Century Arms has Beretta model 70/71's in this configuration and I was hoping it would be possible to use the factory barrel for a suppressor.
Would the barrel likely be usable after removing the pin perhaps after chasing the threads with the appropriate die?

As usual, any input or experiences appreciated.

Eseaton

[Capt. Link.]

Is it feasible to remove a blind pinned fake suppressor from a factory threaded barrel?
Century Arms has Beretta model 70/71's in this configuration and I was hoping it would be possible to use the factory barrel for a suppressor.
Would the barrel likely be usable after removing the pin perhaps after chasing the threads with the appropriate die?

As usual, any input or experiences appreciated.

Eseaton

If its a straight blow-back replacing the barrel may be the best option. A picture of how they pinned it may give us a idea of what may be involved to restore it.It also may be possible to do a form one using the fake suppressor.
-CL

[ECCO Machine]

The pin is irrelevant; the threads are short, shoulderless and 1/2-20, which is not standard in the US.

I turn down the muzzle & thread 3/8-28, then make a custom adapter:

[T-Rex]

I turn down the muzzle & thread 3/8-28, then make a custom adapter:

Did the same thing for my kids' Savage Rascals.


ETA: the front of that pistol is gnarly looking

[ECCO Machine]

the front of that pistol is gnarly looking

Yeah, fair amount of pitting on the passenger side, though not as noticeable in your hand as with a close up.

That shot was before I blasted it and refinished in SOCOM flat moly resin. Previous owner had also electropenciled numbers on the front strap, but luckily only a couple thou deep, sanded out fairly easily.

Those two issues and the poor removal job someone had done on the faux suppressor are why I got the gun for $200

[alordnapa]

I had to do a similar job on a barrel that would have been too short if I cut it down and just re-threaded it. I cut the muzzle weight ( I suppose you could call it a suppressor... but it was just a brake blank) Since it was concentric, I just cut the faux-can down to about an inch, and threaded the blank. The rest of the fake can mated nicely without having to be turned down, although there was no escaping having to cut and face, turn it down, and thread it in my lathe. I think I like ECCO's approach better!

[cdhknives]

The pin is irrelevant; the threads are short, shoulderless and 1/2-20, which is not standard in the US.

I turn down the muzzle & thread 3/8-28, then make a custom adapter:

Help me understand the advantage of your system...trying to learn as an admittedly very amateurish and mostly self taught lathe operator. When I look at that I see a very thin remaining barrel and extra operations. Why not build your adapter for the factory threads and use a shoulder inside the adapter to seat the end of the barrel against?

[ECCO Machine]

Help me understand the advantage of your system...trying to learn as an admittedly very amateurish and mostly self taught lathe operator. When I look at that I see a very thin remaining barrel and extra operations. Why not build your adapter for the factory threads and use a shoulder inside the adapter to seat the end of the barrel against?

3/8-28 would not typically leave such thin walls; I had to counterbore the barrel 1/4" deep to .29" to clean up pitting and damage from the botched pin drilling job. 3/8-24 is actually a somewhat common rimfire barrel thread, used on the Kel-Tec PMR-30 and others.

As for why do it this way, it's just much cleaner than a chunky adapter which adds length and detracts aesthetically. That's the difference between just getting it done and doing it nicely. Same reason I made a 9/16-24 LH taper mount brake that registers on the muzzle for my FAL instead of running a 5/8-24 RH adapter and using one of the many 5/8-24 brakes I already had made.