Booster advice
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 2:28 pm
The forum search function is only returning a wall of text that look like this;
The 2003 experiment in making a 9mm can for my Browning HP was a failure in that instead of a booster I used a hot subsonic load and a light weight can with a cut down slide spring. It worked for a few hundred rounds until the barrel locking lugs were damaged. The thick K baffles I used are no longer anywhere near as effective as cans made in the last several years.
I have not made a can for a few years, but I bought a Springfield XDM in 9mm with a threaded barrel and tall sights.
So now I'm going to make an all stainless welded can about 7 inches long and 1.5" in diameter. I'll make the baffles/tubing as thin as I dare but this one will have a recoil booster so it will function properly on a Browning type pistol. It will be chemically cleaned when it starts to gain weight.
http://www.ajguns.net/oc/9mm_booster
This one looks simple. I would just make the silencer with any ordinary end cap and 1/2-28 threads then attach it to the booster. Looks like the bullet will travel a ways before it reaches the first baffle. Any down side to this?
https://www.form1builder.com/product/ge ... 1-12-kits/
https://libertycans.net/product/recoil- ... -assembly/
https://sdtacticalarms.com/-Booster_p_151.html
These boosters attach to the silencer in a more conventional manner. I think making the threads to mate with the booster on my hobby lathe will not be a problem.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Ranb
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The 2003 experiment in making a 9mm can for my Browning HP was a failure in that instead of a booster I used a hot subsonic load and a light weight can with a cut down slide spring. It worked for a few hundred rounds until the barrel locking lugs were damaged. The thick K baffles I used are no longer anywhere near as effective as cans made in the last several years.
I have not made a can for a few years, but I bought a Springfield XDM in 9mm with a threaded barrel and tall sights.
So now I'm going to make an all stainless welded can about 7 inches long and 1.5" in diameter. I'll make the baffles/tubing as thin as I dare but this one will have a recoil booster so it will function properly on a Browning type pistol. It will be chemically cleaned when it starts to gain weight.
http://www.ajguns.net/oc/9mm_booster
This one looks simple. I would just make the silencer with any ordinary end cap and 1/2-28 threads then attach it to the booster. Looks like the bullet will travel a ways before it reaches the first baffle. Any down side to this?
https://www.form1builder.com/product/ge ... 1-12-kits/
https://libertycans.net/product/recoil- ... -assembly/
https://sdtacticalarms.com/-Booster_p_151.html
These boosters attach to the silencer in a more conventional manner. I think making the threads to mate with the booster on my hobby lathe will not be a problem.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Ranb