Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
First off, what I'm thinking is a 5.5-6in "D" Maglite build: carbonsteel tube, stainless baffles, (maybe) titanium target-side end cap; specifically for subsonics but built strong enough to be used safely with supers
I have an issue to workout before I dive too deep into the design, my forearm I.D is 1.4" and the D-tubes are 1.5"O.D and my barrel threads sit approx 1/4" recessed (photo below)
I can think of two solutions
1) grind down the barrel-side end cap to 1&3/8" (easy & cheap)
2) outer threaded muzzle device (preffered but would have to find matching threaded endcaps or have manufactured +$$$)
Either will work. It's really up to you. there's an ebay seller that has the 13/16 male threaded brakes and tube proximal end caps. Look for the guy with the state of texas outline as a logo.
Unfortunately, it looks like that seller no longer lists those specific parts, at least on ebay, but that info was enough to land me in the ball park. Thank you.
Stuff another cone in that endcap, with a bit of a longer skirt on it to keep it halfway between the previous cone and the exit hole, or with a step cut into the endcap to retain it. Make the exit hole in the cap a bit smaller. Those will get you a little bit quieter. Looks a bit short to me for really effective suppression but it'll take the edge off. Of course you'll want to clip those cones...
One of the endcaps I'm looking at is conical, would that work as well?
For the first render I cheated a bit and just flipped the threaded adapter instead of making a new piece, I will modify the file as I get more accurate measurements. (2nd edit below: youll see some overlap between parts, these are areas where correct measurements are needed; there is also a spacer needed for the blast champer)
I was originally planning for it to be 5.5-6" both to keep costs and over all length down, but if its not effective, there's no purpose. What would you say is the minimum length for a 1.35″ ID tube?
What do you mean to clip the cones? Like, pin, to retain them?
If you're not able to machine a cone to fit into the end cap, then sure, leave the somewhat longer space between the last baffle and that conical end cap. The smaller exit hole matching those in the baffles will help in noise reduction. The first end cap with the much larger hole may as well not be there as it's just so big.
Clipping is something you'll need to research. Do a google image search for 'dhc cone clip' without the quotes, that'll give you lots to think about. A couple of files and a way to hold the cones securely while filing is all you need. May come out a bit sloppy, or not, depending on your skills and patience. A clipped cone offers a very significant noise reduction compared to a plain cone. Think of these parts you can order online as raw material to be finished, something like an 80% lower.
VSOC wrote: ↑Mon Apr 20, 2020 11:23 amfinished up my preliminary design, went and ordered some specific components to finalize measurements before i send off the form1.
Get your form1 going. Don't worry about getting the length precise. It can be changed, after approval, and before building.
