Welding endcaps

[CMV]

Have access to a smallish stick welder - a 120amp that runs off 110V plug. Have a can I'd like to weld with it. Since I know about nothing, have 2 big questions for now.

#1 1/8" or 3/32" 319L rod is what I think I should use. Endcap is 416 & tube is 316L stainless.

#2 I'm not sure exactly how the weld sticks the pieces together or how to prep them for best weld. Just have them clamped together square, bevel one piece, bevel both, cut a little groove, etc?



Any of those look correct?

[T-Rex]

You don't usually bevel thin walled tube, it's just butt welded. But, stick welding w/ an oversized rod, a bevel on both pieces (#3) should do. You can turn afterwards, to remove the buildup.

[748]

You really don't want to weld anything with a 120v stick welder they are usually junk and the welds are crap.
You have to run stainless rods hot for them not to look like total ass.
You should find someone with a tig welder.

[Bee]

You really do not want to use 416 SS for what you intend to do. The chemistry was not designed with welding in mind...it has intentional S additions to aid machining but that negatively impact welds. Additionally, with 416 chemistry, as-welded hardness will be too high.
Since you are using a 316 tube, go with a 300 series end cap. Weld it with an ER309 filler wire. You can use stick if you are OK with a proud and rough weld profile (and then grind or machine afterward). Best welding option would be TIG.

[ECCO Machine]

Have access to a smallish stick welder - a 120amp that runs off 110V plug. Have a can I'd like to weld with it. Since I know about nothing, have 2 big questions for now.

Just don't.

Even back in the day when I was regularly using stick and well practiced, I wouldn't have used it for this purpose. You can make pretty welds with stick, but they have to be large. You don't want to use MIG either. MIG would be better than arc, but both of those are suited to heavy fabrication with thick parts that can take the heat. The only time I use MIG for anything firearms related is welding cut receivers back together because massive amounts of material need to be restored.

TIG for this application. And practice a lot first, because no matter how good the machine is, if you don't know how to run it, it's easy to make ugly welds, collapse parts, blow holes, generally overheat the work. You may or may not know who I am and what I do, but I know a thing or 3 about welding on suppressors.

[CMV]

Hmmmmm....seemed like a good idea.

I have 1020 tube & 4130 chromemoly round stock in the same sizes so could I stick those with something like a 3/32 6011? Or is it just the wrong process no matter what for thin walled tube?

I don't really care about pretty and being a novice don't expect pretty. Just strong is fine. I can grind & turn to make it pretty afterward before Cerakote. Just don't want to grenade it because it's weak.

[mr fixit]

the problem is the amount of heat required to melt the rod with a stick welder puts so much heat into the part. large thick parts are ok with it, thin small parts warp. TIG allows pinpoint arc placement and a much smaller and controlled heat affected zone.

[Zero99z]

Definitely do not use a 110v stick welder. If you can get your hands a 110v Tig machine, like one from harbor freight which is what I used on my 50 cal can, would be way better. Even mig would be better. Stick will burn right through thin stuff.

[Ekacpuc]

Old thread but I’m answering anyways. Be careful welding stainless, make sure the alloy can be welded and if using different alloys use 309 rod (1/16” if you can find).

Stay away from 6010 and 6011. They penetrate deep and tend to crack.

6013 is a low penetration rod and can be had in 1/16”

Welding 4140 to anything non 4140 will typically crack without a preheat postheat schedule


Most 110v can be setup to run tig. It’s essentially the same using scratch start. Look at weldporn website as they have a tig torch with the gas valve on the torch itself. Use argon if you can’t afford helium.


Stick is old but it will work. I would grind my weld down after (leave some as there’s not much to penetrate with the thin tube).


This all assumes you’re NOT using a AC stick welder. If you can switch the ground between positive and neg it’s a DC machine and you’re good.


Last thing. Don’t let anyone tell you a 110v stick welder isn’t strong and cannot produce a quality weld. I’ve welded key parts of ships together with one. Fixed X-ray back gouges on master seams with one... I use 6013 on sheet metal.

[Zero99z]

Old thread but I’m answering anyways. Be careful welding stainless, make sure the alloy can be welded and if using different alloys use 309 rod (1/16” if you can find).

I'm big fan of 312 rod. Its stronger and works better for higher end SS like 17-4.