Which features would enhance this product?

[whiterussian1974]

https://solventtrapkit.com/products/11p ... ecard-22lr

Should I add "mouseholes" or "clip" 2 sides of the mouth of the cones? It will go on a standard Ruger 10/22 to replace the birdcage flash hider.

It is SUPER thin aluminum. I don't have this exact item. But Amazon no longer carries either the item that I bought, nor anything similar. So I used this product as a substitute for representation.

I no longer even recall the Aluminum type that they "claimed." I want to say 6061 but I don't recall. It may have been 7075 but I think that it was 6061.

I will be using only a hand drill with 9/32" or approx bit. Maybe a drimmel or rasp file to clip it. But I don't even have that right now. I guess that I could use a hacksaw and pull the "petals" back to make clips with a "guide ledge" to direct the gasses? Similar to the "pig snout" on the Surefire Ryder brake.

I could also add 1/64" holes around the circumferance of the far end cap. I know that it would increase the evacuation rate of the trapped gas, but it would also lower the pressure going through the main bore hole. (No mnfr does this, so probably not a great idea. But Linear Compensators use a similar design.)

I plan to use a .22 cleaning rod once it is attached, to insure no baffle strikes. Should I bore larger holes for the distant holes, because I doubt how true the tube will be?

And yes, I am aware that this is trash, but it was cheap. I doubt that it would be hearing safe with supers, but with 52 gr subs I figure that it will be fine. Or even 40 gr Federal subs.

Thanks for any help that you can offer.

[Historian]

WR,

First a 'Gunsmithing Kink' for accurate hole center drilling you
might consider if you do not have access to a drill press or lathe
is to make a wood or metal guide/fixture ... a plug that fits into
your tube.

This is accomplished with a Bi-Metal Hole Saw Drill Bit HSS Hole Cutter with Arbor for Wood and Metal.
E.g., << https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-H ... lsrc=aw.ds >>

Accurate plug then fits in tube, presses against domes, and center drilled precisely.

I do have trepidations of your using a 'cleaning rod' as a check of alignment. In this case
history shows a safety minimal I.D. for .22 hole to be .030". Err on side of caution less you
emulate your can's joining the plastic see-though flying down range as in your fun video.

Simple cross cut on 'pyramid' apex is to take a 60º file and file a symmetrical notch.
This would cause some cross disruption.

Be safe, my friend.

[whiterussian1974]

Thank you for the info.

By cleaning rod, I meant from the barrel chamber, through the barrel, and then finally through the baffles, to insure that if a .22" aluminum rod can go 26" through the "works" then a lead slug should also.

Should I only test fire with 1 baffle in the tube at a time? Then if there were a strike, that would be the only baffle affected?

There are only 2 that the pilot hole was off-center. I just drilled them larger and figure to put them near the end.

If they are unusable, I'll just throw those baffles away and send it to a SOT to replace the whole stack....IF the tube is properly aligned.

[a_canadian]

A while back a friend brought me one sort of like this, for another friend of his who had picked it up via eBay for $28. It was just before the RCMP decided to notice such things and have CBSA confiscate them on arrival at ports of entry. It had 7 'cups' which looked very much like the ones to which you've linked, but they were made of a very nicely black coated stainless steel and about as thick as the lid of a tin can. Pressed very neatly and dimensionally perfect for the tube, square faces, everything done right. Just weird that they were thin stainless. Quite hard though.

Anyway, I was asked to drill them and do whatever else I could to make the thing work. Chucked them up in my little lathe with a piece of slotted 1" aluminum tube for a shim in the 4-jaw, boring out the centres to 0.28" with a flat milling cutter. Then in a vise I used a chainsaw file (1/8") to make pairs of cuts about 3/32" deep into each cone tip, hoping to break up flow just a little. A single 1/16" hole got drilled halfway up the cone wall on the first baffle.

Result was surprisingly quiet on a Ruger MkIV Lite. The guy was completely pleased. I've no idea how long it'll last, but I guess that sort of cone can work. Alignment from the factory couldn't have been more perfect. Very nice machine work in every detail. Impressive for something costing $28, including shipping from China. Wonder if it was made by Uyghur slave labour?

[whiterussian1974]

Thanks for the great info and shared experience. I'll try the file idea.

Wonder if it was made by Uyghur slave labour?

I'd love to joke that the envelope came marked "Made in Wuhan" when it arrived in February.

But then all hell would probably descend upon me from a plethora of Medical and Investigative Agencies. LOL

I heard that Disney used Uyghur slave labor in the creation of their Animated and Live Action films. But of course, no Source has been allowed to communicate from within the "exclusionary zone" to confirm this.

[a_canadian]

Oh man, I don't normally feel like countries should go around interfering with other countries, but... seriously, someone ought to take out ALL the top politicos in the CCP or whatever the heck it would take to allow the people to rise up. They have to be close to ready for a revolution with all the mismanagement and abuse going on for so long. But no, instead we have 'leaders' like our precious little boy Justin T, farming out the educational services of the Canadian Armed Forces to train Chinese spies in modern winter warfare. Oh, but it's okay says Sajjin, our chief 'defense' minister, no Chinese 'People's Liberation Army' winter warfare training is happening now, as of this week, it's been stopped, so nothing to see here... I mean come on, seriously? Sucking up to China while they enslave millions from a religious minority? Tip-toeing around Beijing so as not to hurt their bloody feelings at every opportunity?

I couldn't figure out anything more useful to do besides the 1/8" filed clips. There just wasn't enough metal for getting fancy. The Dater hole in the blast baffle seemed to help compared to firing before I drilled it. In that example there was about a 1/4" gap from muzzle to first entry point, so not a lot of FRP if any.

[Ezraross1]

For what is worth, I bought an item (from China, $6.71) that looks exactly like the first pic. Drilled only center holes, no clipping or mouse holes, and would not have believed the performance if I had not seen it myself. With subs, the only sound I hear is the firing pin and the round hitting the plywood target backer. After mounting on my RPR .22 I can hit a 50 cent piece at one hundred yards all day long with only the sound of the supers crack. Don’t know how long it will last, but it works like a dream, though I’m afraid to take it off the rifle for fear of it not repeating.
Squirrels and rabbits beware!
Sad I had to pay almost 30 times it’s cost for permission to build...

[whiterussian1974]

Sad I had to pay almost 30 times it’s cost for permission to build...

Squirrels and rabbits beware!

Great point Brother Ezra. And thanks for the product report. You have reenergized my hope.

[0101silent]

You can purchase a length of straight unhardened drill rod, or tool steel from McMaster.com or Grainger for a very low price to use as an alignment rod.