No More Solvent Traps

[DGrunt]

Historian,

The term 'commandeered' is inaccurate. The proper term is "INTER-SERVICE TRANSFER OF MATERIAL FOR AN INDETERMINATE PERIOD OF TIME"

Semper Fi

DGrunt

[Sgt.Mike]

looking at 101 silent and Historian's post /replies on the "camshaft design"

This will require a slight thread driff to a slight degree if there is not much discussion on this post.

To have rifle or smoothbore will be a choice , neither would be a real bad choice.
But if hooking two rifles section i can see where a leade in the second rifled bore would be required so that the bullet could tranistion between differinces with the bore.

Point to ponder 1st barrel is a 1-9 twist but your camshaft design barrel extention is a 1-7 twist with a leade (throat) section in the barrel extention. This would have the same advantage as a "gain" twist start slow end fast. which would effect velocity /dwell time . And would effect stability and so on. This method would serve best as a last resort or no better choice.

But to 101's source a smooth bore will be the obvious best and easiest choice all the way around, and would be my method to do .
another source:
http://colerainbarrel.com/barrels/

[Capt. Link.]

[/quote]

Thank you, brother. I found this most interesting article on Qual-A-Tec by
Douglas Olsen*.

The story of an operator actually using the Hush-Puppy
in the field on the goose was also relayed by Major Dick Culver.

"... I recall a report from a SEAL who had the task to take out the “guard goose”
at a Village in Vietnam. He shot the goose twice with the Hush Puppy and only succeeded
in making the goose mad and very noisy.
Obviously, this lack of lethality led to the guns being left behind during “real” missions...."
- Douglas Olsen

So much for mythology.

Best.


[/quote]
I like this. I want to make one. Advisable?.22? .45acp? .308?

I found a barrel blank to be good source of metal with a long straight hole for building a monocore. Green Mountain sells raw blanks up to 1.4" od. They also sell blanks that are turned concentric to the bore.

There are also 6" long muzzle brake blanks available that are completely solid similar to a fake suppressor.

I would use a lathe, but the above monocore could be carved out with a grinder. A threaded adapter and tube could be welded on. Drill rod can serve as an alignment rod.
[/quote]

I have seen these crankshaft suppressors and some say its the work of Qual A Tec I'm skeptical about that claim.I would think the .308 would be a candidate maybe .22 sub through super, .45 is and always has been a difficult customer. I would make them as a build up welded construction if possible.
Barrel blanks are a expensive source but depending on who made them should cut nice. You might wish to call around for some screwed up blanks at a discount. Every shop has a scrap box. I know where 2.5" blanks are available is you don't mind the 20mm rifled hole in the middle.

I was issued a WOX-1 the Navy equivalence to the hush puppy. It had minute of goose accuracy ,but ball sucks and you can't use hollow points with the wipes. They needed the flat-point ball round now called air-force ball. Another choice would be the Super-Vel round designed for the MP5SD it would have turned that goose into pat'e ,ah goose liver.....drool.

If you have a Wox-1 or equivalent you might try "the Navy repack" Accuracy and longevity is improved if you use greased wet suite material. It was not sanctioned but often done.

Post enhancement:
Wire mesh: The HDMS used a roll of bronze mesh followed by a long stack of washers past the ported barrel end. You can do better if you twist long strands of mesh compressed around the barrel. The more compressed the better. The mesh simply adsorbs heat that will be heard as sound. Ablatives work try a very light weight oil.
Ablatives: Light oil is better than heavy for suppression as it will flash boil "entropy" converting more energy. While I have not tried this using hand sanitizer should work even better as the alcohol will flash at a lower temperature. I'm not nutz if low flash point oil dose not catch fire why would hand sanitizer.
Lemon oil with bee's wax.
Water mixed with either photo flow or borax.
Lanolin,hand cream,Vaseline,Lithium grease* wire pulling gel.
Mix you own as can and calibers will make a difference. (lemon oil,lard or lanolin to thicken,borax.) add a mask sent for the environment, anything from the gutter works well in the D.C. area.
A disgusting ablative that is best suited for the men's room is urine. The heavy salt's make it perform the smell keeps nosy people at arms length....yuc !
Not all suppressors work well with ablatives. Baffles that use ports work best as the "oil" makes the gas heavy and thick slowing them down. Baffles like cones or plain flat washers or freeze plugs simply don't work as well though I have never tried "clipped cones" Base ported cones should work as the gases must pass through the small ports. Integrals that are ported would benefit from a zerk fitting to add a few dollops of grease right at the ports and baffle stack. Pleated aluminum heavy screen x one turn holds plenty around barrel ports.
2021 the devil is at the door start a notebook.

[Historian]

Historian,

The term 'commandeered' is inaccurate.
the proper term is "INTER-SERVICE TRANSFER OF MATERIAL FOR AN INDETERMINATE PERIOD OF TIME"

Semper Fi

DGrunt

Oh my , DGrunt, when I read your brilliant clarificationI I laughed so hard I splashed
my espresso on the screen. Have just cleaned it up and my sides is still hurting
from the laughing.

So many images of 'inter-service-transfers-past' ( pardon me Marcel Proust)
came rushing back all at once from puzzle-palace day gone.

It is so nice, brother, to know you understood!

Culver and Marine team shooting against Air Force team
long ago; Marines of course won hands down.

"At end of day base speakers announced 'it is 5:00 p.m for our civilians,
1700 for our Air Force Personnel, and the little hand is at 5 and the big
hand at 12 for our visiting Marine guests." - DIck Culver

Best

[Historian]

Redundant copy, ignore please.

[0101silent]

Captain Link, I would turn the crankshaft in one piece. I'm not a skilled welder. I can stick metal together , but if there was a red flag law for people with welders then anyone that cared for me would turn me in.

I would use a barrel blank or bar stock at length, thread it for the weapon, and then offset in my 4 jaw chuck ~1\8" and turn until I reached the center hole for each chamber creating the open channel.

Maybe I would leave the stock centered and cut the chambers leaving an even wall and cut the slots with a toolpost mounted dremel. But then it wouldn't look like a crankshaft.

Now that I think about it the core may not retain enough strength during machining to withstand the cutting forces ...if there were a red flag law for mini lathes...

It could be safer and more practical to skip the lathe for the chambers and just use a grinder.

[whiterussian1974]

A 3/8" tube with alternating sections removed to vent gas.

Have it slide through the freeze plugs or whichever "baffles" one wishes to use. Mount all to the muzzlebrake of your choice. Use a guiderod to center the works to bore. Or insert the central tube INTO the muzzlebrake's bore so that it has 3" L to hold it tight.

Or simply make this whole project into the last several inches of an integral barrel.

Make sense?

Personally, I'd still prefer slanted sidewalls over a segmented tube.

[0101silent]

A 3/8" tube with alternating sections removed to vent gas.

Have it slide through the freeze plugs or whichever "baffles" one wishes to use. Mount all to the muzzlebrake of your choice. Use a guiderod to center the works to bore. Or insert the central tube INTO the muzzlebrake's bore so that it has 3" L to hold it tight.

Or simply make this whole project into the last several inches of an integral barrel.

Make sense?

Personally, I'd still prefer slanted sidewalls over a segmented tube.

Yes, that makes perfect sense. It would be much easier and wouldn't require a lathe in the spirit of the thread.

Freeze plugs have built in spacers and would only require being drilled with a 3/8 bit.

Alternatively of 3/8" OD ported pipe or tube was used a standard flat washer would fit both the OD of the ported pipe and the ID of a standard pipe used as the outer tube. I'm pretty sure that even I could successfully weld washers to the 3/8" ported pipe.

Yes WR, it would be even easier to integrate the system into/on a barrel.

[Historian]

Interview with Doug Olson


<< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDijxi ... e=emb_logo >>

"If you do not cheat you are not trying" - Doug Olson

And Eugene Stoner:
<< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xmtQ9f7NuY >>

[Capt. Link.]

Captain Link, I would turn the crankshaft in one piece. I'm not a skilled welder. I can stick metal together , but if there was a red flag law for people with welders then anyone that cared for me would turn me in.

I would use a barrel blank or bar stock at length, thread it for the weapon, and then offset in my 4 jaw chuck ~1\8" and turn until I reached the center hole for each chamber creating the open channel.

Maybe I would leave the stock centered and cut the chambers leaving an even wall and cut the slots with a toolpost mounted dremel. But then it wouldn't look like a crankshaft.

Now that I think about it the core may not retain enough strength during machining to withstand the cutting forces ...if there were a red flag law for mini lathes...
.
It could be safer and more practical to skip the lathe for the chambers and just use a grinder.

Time is often the one factor many people overlook when using mini-lathes the other is tooling choice. Many fall into ready made tools made from carbide when HSS tooling is better suited for a small machine tool. Shallow interrupted cuts is normal for small hobbyist equipment and carbide hates that. I will teach anyone who wishes to grind their own tools gratis. You might look into threading this beast together or pin it. Any small inaccuracy's can be turned true so it can slip int a tube.Turning and silver soldering is another choice.
Why do you wish this esoteric design, it may be a dog. I'm sure more information would be around if the core worked well. You name the host and caliber and a great baffle can be made on your tooling.
Please don't be down on yourself being a novice.....my scrap bin has lots of metal in it. You can do almost anything if you practice enough and take your time. I've been honing my machine skills since 1980 and still learning.
-CL

[0101silent]

The crankshaft just looks cool. It looks easy to clean. It looks like it would trap gas on the side opposite of the port. It would be easy to pin and weld. I wouldn't be original but there can't be too many like it.

It's hard for me to own machine tools that can carve out anything that I can imagine and just make a stack of 60* cones. I would probably make the crankshaft a .22lr silencer, but the .45acp is next on my list of projects.

I've learned to grind my own HSS bits. I bought a large lot of very unique bits from the estate of a master machinists estate. I only use those when absolutely necessary. They're works of art. I use them for reference when grinding my own bits. I bought a CBN grinding wheel that cost much more than the grinder itself. I've had pretty good success but there's always room for improvement.

I also use carbide.

[Historian]

0101silent, you are again seeing an example of the generous and boundless wisdom
that is continually shared by the Good Captain, W.R. and others.

It makes me humbled to be allowed to be part
of this special 'band of brothers'.

Akin to Callahan's Cross Time Saloon*-"Time Travelers Strictly Cash"
You even find possible biography of Michael "Mickey" Finn that could
explain where his silencer designs came from.

Our host R.S. deserves recognition and our gratitude that is not often expressed.




* Spider Robinson :
<< https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Callahan% ... ime_Saloon >>

[whiterussian1974]

Our host R.S. deserves recognition and our gratitude that is not often expressed.

Yes. Robert has done us all a great service in creating and maintaining this Site for us.

Since he is generously keeping this free for us, I use his Amazon Referral Code whenever I shop there. I recently remodeled my bathroom and ordered nearly $2k worth of supplies and materials. Hopefully he gets at least .1% of those Orders.

I also wouldn't mind him adding Banner Ads or links if they were unobtrusive. Hopefully he gets some contributions from the big MNFRs who have their own Sub-sections in the Commercial Can section.

[0101silent]

Our host R.S. deserves recognition and our gratitude that is not often expressed.

Yes, I am grateful for R.S., his website, and contributions. If not for this site and the contributors I would never have learned anything about metal work. He has brought together a lot intelligent people. It took a lot of reading between the lines to understand the value and greatness of the contributors.

Due to R.S. I also got into 3D printing even and bought the Epax X1 that he featured in a video along with Siraya Blu Resin. I also quit playing with Tinkercad and learned Fusion 360 due to R.S.

R.S. also demonstrated a wholly 3D printed silencer and how to produce it.
https://youtu.be/ekDs60QxmNE

The video was an excellent proof of concept. Imagine 3D printing the core and using epoxy to install a metal thread protector and then gluing it into a metal tube.

A low tech solution would involve a metal tube, waxed alignment rod, thread protector or brake, and epoxy clay.

[Historian]

Continuing on the above reference to R.S's superb video tutorial
on 3D printing proof-of-concept of 'plastic' can a plastic can was
manufactured in Finland many years ago by Vaime* with an
initial steel expansion chamber and plastic baffles. It has
been described in Paulson's Book:
"Paulson, Alan C., Silencer History and Performance - Vol 1".

With metal 3D printing more robust designs can be executed.

Again, R.S., kudos to you.


* << https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File ... P-Drwg.png >>

[ninoslavt]

I believe baffles in Vaime's can were Aluminum cast, not plastic ones, at least for AK. Friend of mine used it during the 1980's and he was very impressed by noise reduction.

[Capt. Link.]

I believe baffles in Vaime's can were Aluminum cast, not plastic ones, at least for AK. Friend of mine used it during the 1980's and he was very impressed by noise reduction.

The Vaime's baffles/spacers were made of cast Aluminum possibly the first to do this! They were a breakthrough of the day. The Russians still use the design. Suppression is improved with all baffles on the same slant and orientation as the baffle rotation causes bullet yaw!
I played with these a number of years back and made a general modification. Adding a dimple's like a k baffle increases performance and using them eccentrically makes a wonderful suppressor.If you can't add dimples through deformation a small piece of metal can be added then the dimple machined.
I have thought a product improved Maxim 30/5.56 caliber is possible using a eccentric slant baffle. A 1x9 suppressor in 2021 why not Maxim did the same in 1910.
-CL

[ninoslavt]

with all baffles on the same slant and orientation as the baffle rotation causes bullet yaw!

Thanks for this info. Now I understand why the suppressor on VSS has such big openings in its baffles. Also, if the yaw is avoided by the same baffle orientation, than it's also possible to use smaller openings which are generally better for noise reduction. And that dimple thing you did reminds me on some of Finn's designs. Cool!

[whiterussian1974]

Adding a dimple's like a k baffle increases performance and using them eccentrically makes a wonderful suppressor.
-CL

By dimple, do you mean the scoop? Can you post a pic to demonstrate what this means?
Thanks

[Capt. Link.]

Adding a dimple's like a k baffle increases performance and using them eccentrically makes a wonderful suppressor.
-CL

By dimple, do you mean the scoop? Can you post a pic to demonstrate what this means?
Thanks

Yes I mean the scoop or what passes for a slanted sidewall these days.
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZL4ghD6uATdabMRe7

-CL