Monolithic baffle stack
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Fudmottin, thats FUNNY!!
I took a pistol class years ago with a respected trainer. When going over pistol presentations, we all gathered round as we were shown (with a cleared weapon of course) proper draw. I noticed engraved on the bushing of his 1911 "R.I.P." I commented "rest in peace, for the perp?" He said no, it stands for Rapid Incoming Projectiles!!!
Jamshot, wicked build and suppressor.
I took a pistol class years ago with a respected trainer. When going over pistol presentations, we all gathered round as we were shown (with a cleared weapon of course) proper draw. I noticed engraved on the bushing of his 1911 "R.I.P." I commented "rest in peace, for the perp?" He said no, it stands for Rapid Incoming Projectiles!!!
Jamshot, wicked build and suppressor.
"A large caliber is good to have but its SHOT PLACEMENT that counts"
Re:
Baffled wrote:Further update:
FWIW, this stack is 1.250" dia X 7.2" long. The holes are 3/4", spaced 0.750" along the X-axis, and offset from the centerline 0.156". The annular cuts were made with the same 3/4" end mill, plunging into the stock for a distance of 0.220" from first contact; OR +/- 0.781" right and left of the centerline.
I'd love to see another one executed to see if this is not a fluke.
Hey i made one and this kind of silencer work!!!!(but only with subsonic bullet)
Re: Re:
That's pretty typical of ANY silencer. Sonic crack sucks. Sometimes you need the velocity for proper terminal ballistic effects, like 5.56, but I personally avoid sonic crack like the plague. With a 5" to 8" barrel, MOST (not all) .22LR standard velocity or target ammo stays subsonic. For plinking, I buy the cheapest standard velocity ammo I can find, because some of the stuff labeled "target" is very expensive.sonictrip wrote:Baffled wrote:Further update:
FWIW, this stack is 1.250" dia X 7.2" long. The holes are 3/4", spaced 0.750" along the X-axis, and offset from the centerline 0.156". The annular cuts were made with the same 3/4" end mill, plunging into the stock for a distance of 0.220" from first contact; OR +/- 0.781" right and left of the centerline.
I'd love to see another one executed to see if this is not a fluke.
Hey i made one and this kind of silencer work!!!!(but only with subsonic bullet)
You can always buy something like Remington Subsonic, but you can get a cheaper ammo that works just as well.
The best bet is to buy a few brands of ammo, find one that is consistently subsonic AND accurate, and stick with it.
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Where do you find cheap standard velocity, or subsonic ammo?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Ammo to go has several types of 22LR for under $200 for 5000. Wideners is out of stock on most of the good plinking ammo.
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
I have been running on stockpiled ammo for a few years now, so I am not up on current sources and prices. It's a matter of looking around, I guess. I wouldn't buy a huge lot without testing it first.hotbrass wrote:Where do you find cheap standard velocity, or subsonic ammo?
Thanks!
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
I have many cases of preobama .22. I was just curious what the prices are like now. Looks like the prices are still holding up, but availability is more stable.
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- Selectedmarksman
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Re:
You're joking, right?Fudmottin wrote:I would like to stamp the words, "FRONT TOWARDS ENEMY" on the front cap of my can. An homage to the Claymore.GeneT wrote:Cool can, and I love the "Vol." marking...
Gst
I like the volume marking, too. Especially if the '-' indicates the direction to turn the can to thread it on and the '+' indicates direction to turn for removal.
I've got Honey Badger Fever.
*Add this to your sig if you've got the fever, too!
*Add this to your sig if you've got the fever, too!
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Fud doesn't post much these days...
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Re: Monolithic baffle stack
actually we own the patent for the monlithic core system, that is how the patent was to read, we just dont have enough money to sue everyone who has infringed.STW has a patent on monolithic baffle cores which employ 'cross drilling.' I have not read it in a while but I think this would fall under that. I know when I did the Prodigy I made sure not to just drill holes.
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Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Baffled,
Do you have a video with and without so we can hear how well it works?
Do you have a video with and without so we can hear how well it works?
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Welcome FreeJersey - I might have screwed up the PM, but basically I don't have video, which usually clips sound badly anyhow with a typical cheaper consumer camera. All I can do is compare it by ear to my two other rimfire cans. Sorry!
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Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Thanks Baffled. I did get the pm also. You're right, video clips can be misleading anyway. Doesn't matter too much I guess. I can't have one till I get out of the PRNJ anyway.
- ghostdog662
- Silent But Deadly
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Re: Monolithic baffle stack
I have a suggestion. What about instead of milling the staggered holes on the outside, you turned those with a part off tool into a stepped pattern?
It seems there would be two huge benefits.
One, would be a lot faster because you take care of both sides at one time
Two, stepped baffle approach suppresses more than the cone.
I'll try to model one tonight.
It seems there would be two huge benefits.
One, would be a lot faster because you take care of both sides at one time
Two, stepped baffle approach suppresses more than the cone.
I'll try to model one tonight.
LP
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Monolithic baffle stack for 300 whisper and 45 acp
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I didn't want to steal any pictures.
Any opinion on a monolithic staggered for a 300 whisper?
What about for a 45 acp carbine?
Responses appreciated
Any opinion on a monolithic staggered for a 300 whisper?
What about for a 45 acp carbine?
Responses appreciated
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Ok, so I'm new to the site, so hello everyone. I've been trying to design a can that is basically a copy of Baffled's design. Instead of using a locating chamfer on the ends of the core and the caps, I opted to thread directly into the core. However, I can't figure out how to get the caps on effectively. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Have a look at the photo link on Post number 1
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Ok, nice. After more pondering last night I decided on something kind of like that. So is the cap on the business end machined as a part of the core? Also, I'm wondering what black magic some of you guys are using to drill a 1/4" hole 6 inches deep without the drill wandering too much. Ideas for tooling? Thanks
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Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Center drill first, maybe 1/4" deep. Then follow with a brand new centering twist drill designed for metal (not wood - different twist rates), by which I mean a 1/4" drill which has about a 1/8" diameter centering tip to act as a leade before the 1/4" lips reach the metal. Practice on a waste piece of the same metal and figure out the ideal drilling speed, using lots of lube. Then nibble. Small cuts, pausing to draw the bit back and clear. When half way through reverse the piece in the lathe chuck and repeat. Should end up with the two holes meeting nicely if you're careful and slow about it. Force it and you can expect to toss the piece in the scrap bin. Don't waste your project by cutting the voids first then drilling the bore, as that approach will force the drill off-center if your voids are even slightly asymmetrical.
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
I did something similar with a 10" core on a Charger takedown. Same method, half from each side. Despite the length, and not using a centering bit, it was off by only a few thousands at the center. I think I used a 5/16" hole in fear of baffle strikes with such a long core, so the bore didn't have to be absolutely perfect.
Re: Monolithic baffle stack
Ok, I was doing some looking around and I read something about aircraft drills? I don't know if that would be be any better.
On the other hand, I think I'm finalizing "my" design. I just have to figure out the threads that I want to put on the endcap and core. Is it a problem if the sleeve isn't constrained so that it can't rotate? The way I have it now, The core has one "cap" that is machined as part of it on the barrel side, and the other cap is threaded onto the core. The only thing that is keeping the sleeve in place is the pressure between the end caps. The sleeve would then located on the OD of the end cap.
On the other hand, I think I'm finalizing "my" design. I just have to figure out the threads that I want to put on the endcap and core. Is it a problem if the sleeve isn't constrained so that it can't rotate? The way I have it now, The core has one "cap" that is machined as part of it on the barrel side, and the other cap is threaded onto the core. The only thing that is keeping the sleeve in place is the pressure between the end caps. The sleeve would then located on the OD of the end cap.
- T-Rex
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Re: Monolithic baffle stack
You've got it.
O-rings preferred, but your choice and can be designed w/o.
You could also drill a pin so that it's centerline is where the tube and distal cap meet. Insert pin and turn flush with OD. This would index the tube and prevent it from turning.
O-rings preferred, but your choice and can be designed w/o.
You could also drill a pin so that it's centerline is where the tube and distal cap meet. Insert pin and turn flush with OD. This would index the tube and prevent it from turning.
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