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K-Baffles step-by-step

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:00 pm
by WhisperFan
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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:05 pm
by WhisperFan
After a light sandblast, here are the finished products


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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:10 pm
by James Jones
Very cool pics. I tried the countersink thing reciently for a buddies project and it diden't work to well with A-286 material , ended up using a carbide tool and the compound.

Thise look pretty sizable what are they going to be used form"

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:19 pm
by WhisperFan
Removed by WhisperFan

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:21 pm
by 041x
Thanks for the pics. Is the angled hole drilled at a 45?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:31 pm
by WhisperFan
041x wrote:Thanks for the pics. Is the angled hole drilled at a 45?
Yup

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:40 pm
by chingon
Are you taking orders ?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:40 pm
by akraven
Excellent write up. Is the countersink tool a standard counter sink or a special tool? To get a sense of scale for me what diameter is the stock you started with? Thanks again. akraven

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:53 pm
by WhisperFan
chingon wrote:Are you taking orders ?
Wouldn't that be great ...... but alas, I make them on Form 1's
akraven wrote:Excellent write up. Is the countersink tool a standard counter sink or a special tool? To get a sense of scale for me what diameter is the stock you started with? Thanks again. akraven
The countersink is a single flute 60 degree 1.25" dia sink. The stock diameter is 1.5" 6061. The chuck is 6"

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:59 pm
by Hush
Nice work, are you planning on coating the baffles?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:44 pm
by L1A1Rocker
VERY freaking cool!!! Thank you!

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:22 am
by bakerjw
Damn nice looking and an excellent photo tutorial.
Thanks

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:49 pm
by ranb
Very nice setup there. I use a Grizzly combo lathe/mill, no where near as nice. Through a little bit of experimentation I ended up making my K baffles nearly exactly the same as above. I posted a photo tutorial on my website, but since the site got so little traffic, and I never really received any input on making silencers, I took it down. This website is a much better source of info.

I am rarely able to make perfectly centered holes with a drill bit in a tail piece stock. I end up using a 1/8th tool bit to widen and center the hole.

The inside reamer works great until I get about an inch wide. I finish larger baffles on the inside with the tool post feed in at the appropriate angle.

Ranb

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:13 am
by GANADERO
wowwwwww nice job mate you are very polite an generous you have all
Devices congrats :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:28 am
by GANADERO
HELLO MATE i have a cuestion

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By ganadero at 2007-12-12


tanks cheers :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:44 am
by Conqueror
^^^He already posted the answer:
The countersink is a single flute 60 degree 1.25" dia sink.

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:52 am
by GANADERO
Conqueror: tanks very much for you answer

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:10 pm
by Mtdew
Conqueror wrote:^^^He already posted the answer:
The countersink is a single flute 60 degree 1.25" dia sink.
I prefer using the compound and a boring tool myself.

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:14 pm
by Conqueror
Any advantage to that? Seems a 60 degree reamer or countersink would yield similar results with less effort.

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:21 pm
by Mtdew
Conqueror wrote:Any advantage to that? Seems a 60 degree reamer or countersink would yield similar results with less effort.
I tried both and using the compound/boring bar was about 2x faster

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:01 pm
by ranb
The reamer makes quick smooth work with small baffles, but when boring larger holes it tends to bind and gall, especially aluminum. I found that using a tool bit fed in at the required angle is faster and less effort for baffles larger than one inch.

Ranb

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:17 pm
by 1911fan
Excellent photos. I'll be sending in an F1 after my Wolverine is in my hands, so I can make a can for my .308.
Why didn't anyone tell me how addictive suppressors are?


1911fan

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:45 pm
by wolf
ranb wrote:The reamer makes quick smooth work with small baffles, but when boring larger holes it tends to bind and gall, especially aluminum. I found that using a tool bit fed in at the required angle is faster and less effort for baffles larger than one inch.

Ranb
When cutting aluminum ,use alcohol to lube the cutting tool
It aint messy and works well ,,

and no you dont have to use you best Vodka :wink:

Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:23 am
by WhisperFan
Thanks for all the comments.

I like the countersink only because I find it slightly faster. Others may find a compound rest faster, but I think a sharp single flute countersink is pretty fast. A multi-fulte (especially a 6-flute) would be much slower.

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 11:32 pm
by cocoboots
do you have any photos of the complete stack? what did you do for a blast baffle?

TIA