22 freeze/expansion plug suppressor

[mojo]

Along the lines of heat treating, if using Stainless Steel expansion plugs is heat treating needed...

I was wondering the same thing.

[sub-sonic]

Along the lines of heat treating, if using Stainless Steel expansion plugs is heat treating needed...

I was wondering the same thing.

I dont think its needed for stainless
the normal zinc plated plugs are mild steel so I think they need the extra hardening

[bowhunterslodge]

great info

[sub-sonic]

here is 2 targets one with the silencer and one with out
shot at 100 yards
30 rounds rapid fire
SS109 ammo
Ar-15 rifle
home made silencer

there was a video to go with this showing me standing unsuported at 100 doing the rapid fire but the member who made the video has not sent it to me yet

[nice shot]

here is 2 targets one with the silencer and one with out
shot at 100 yards
30 rounds rapid fire
SS109 ammo
Ar-15 rifle
home made silencer

I'd say you rdoing it right!

[ShovelheadDan]

For those of you asking about a 22 LR design:
years ago I read a post by a guy in Sweden who used 15/16" tubing and made his washers/baffles
out of nylon because it is self-lubricating and doesn't need cleaning as often.
Cut your tube to length. (However long you decide is enough)
cut some of the remaining tube lengthwise so you can fold it over itself and then cut your spacers from this.
I don't know if you can buy nylon washers but you can buy solid round stock. Take that to a machine shop and have them bore a hole through it on a lathe so that it is centered perfectly.
Then take it home and cut your washers from that. If you don't have the tools to cut them, have the shop do that too.
At the end, he slotted the tube and simply bent the tabs over the last washer.
How you mount it is up to you.
I would have the machine shop thread the barrel 1/2 x 28 and use a AR15 flash hider for the mount.

[Historian]

For those of you asking about a 22 LR design:
years ago I read a post by a guy in Sweden who used 15/16" tubing and made his washers/baffles
out of nylon because it is self-lubricating and doesn't need cleaning as often.
Cut your tube to length. (However long you decide is enough)
cut some of the remaining tube lengthwise so you can fold it over itself and then cut your spacers from this.
I don't know if you can buy nylon washers but you can buy solid round stock. Take that to a machine shop and have them bore a hole through it on a lathe so that it is centered perfectly.
Then take it home and cut your washers from that. If you don't have the tools to cut them, have the shop do that too.
At the end, he slotted the tube and simply bent the tabs over the last washer.
How you mount it is up to you.
I would have the machine shop thread the barrel 1/2 x 28 and use a AR15 flash hider for the mount.

Your post raises an interesting issue, the durability of nylon for baffles/wipes. Does anyone
know the longevity or imperviousness that such an arrangement would have on the survivability of nylon
given the heat ranges of the .22, .45, .30-06?

[ Easy to tell era of the shooter when 9mm and 7.62×39mm are
scornfully not mentioned. ]

[nice shot]

For those of you asking about a 22 LR design:
years ago I read a post by a guy in Sweden who used 15/16" tubing and made his washers/baffles
out of nylon because it is self-lubricating and doesn't need cleaning as often.
Cut your tube to length. (However long you decide is enough)
cut some of the remaining tube lengthwise so you can fold it over itself and then cut your spacers from this.
I don't know if you can buy nylon washers but you can buy solid round stock. Take that to a machine shop and have them bore a hole through it on a lathe so that it is centered perfectly.
Then take it home and cut your washers from that. If you don't have the tools to cut them, have the shop do that too.
At the end, he slotted the tube and simply bent the tabs over the last washer.
How you mount it is up to you.
I would have the machine shop thread the barrel 1/2 x 28 and use a AR15 flash hider for the mount.

Your post raises an interesting issue, the durability of nylon for baffles/wipes. Does anyone
know the longevity or imperviousness that such an arrangement would have on the survivability of nylon
given the heat ranges of the .22, .45, .30-06?

[ Easy to tell era of the shooter when 9mm and 7.62×39mm are
scornfully not mentioned. ]

Nylon as in PVC? Polyvinyl Chloride wont hold up to heat if thats what you meant by nylon. Not even schedual 40 conduit.

[ShovelheadDan]

Nylons aren't PVC. They are polyamides. Unlike PVC, they are very heat resistant. They are used for gears and other car parts. Regardless, the beauty of the Swede's design is that it is cheap and simple enough that it is almost disposable. UHMW is another thermoplastic that is extremely tough. Tougher than Nylon and it is self lubricating. It could be used as a substitute for the Nylon.
I am by no means and expert on any of this. My intentions were simply to pass on what I read in case it was of interest to any of you.

[markm]

scale it down for a .22rf
I would make it from 1" pipe and about 6" long

Sorry for the highjack, but thought this might be a good place to post this.

I was inspired by Subsonic's baffle idea and wanted to post what I have found to work wonderfully well for a .22RF. This is for guys who want a good suppressor but dont have access to welders, edm machines, and other NASA tools.

<SNIP>

I'll try to get pics soon.

I'd like to see this can.

[Ron Dishop Silencers]

Here is a web site to get the best deal on freez plugs

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Expans ... s_s/89.htm

[markm]

That's not a very good deal... and they're zinc. Would those work?

[yugritin]

I just stumbled upon this thread in researching cans. I have a saiga 308 Ive been dying to get a can for. Well I now have my form 1 in front of me gonna fill it out tonight and send it off. I will build my own.

[sub-sonic]

That's not a very good deal... and they're zinc. Would those work?

zinc plated is fine

Nylons aren't PVC. They are polyamides. Unlike PVC, they are very heat resistant. They are used for gears and other car parts. Regardless, the beauty of the Swede's design is that it is cheap and simple enough that it is almost disposable. UHMW is another thermoplastic that is extremely tough. Tougher than Nylon and it is self lubricating. It could be used as a substitute for the Nylon.
I am by no means and expert on any of this. My intentions were simply to pass on what I read in case it was of interest to any of you.

you really need some serious couch time thats not video game couch time

[Implodedmindz]

I have a question concearning the relation of ID tube to OD of the freeze plugs. Was looking at 1.5 DOM. 065 wall making ID 1.37. The closest freeze plug I can find is a 34.3 mm. 497 tall, 1.344 closed end and 1.359 open end. Leaving a supposed gap of. 0055 on the open end. Is that acceptable. I assume there will be a little flare when forming to take up some of the slack.

[IAC533]

A .0055" slip fit is perfect. After forming you will have a HELLA time getting them in.

[vwluv10338]

I have read all 9 pages and have learned a lot from what sub-sonic has written. I cannot wait to start working on mine when my paper work is all done.

sub-sonic - I might have missed this but how did you connect your can to your sks? I also have a sks I would like a can for. Did you get a pipe collar and pipe that fits it for the same 2 point attachment like you did on the AR?

I made a different mount for the sks I did not show it on here
the barrel on the sks is threaded 9/16-24 and I used a flash hider for the L1A1 rifle as the mount
I use that silencer on my L1A1 more than on the sks
the problem with the sks is the front sight is in the way

Is this a 2-point mount as well or just a standard screw-on? Would you mind posting pics?

[smokinbutts]

i am planning on getting paperwork together for one of these soon. I would like to go 1.5 in OD about 8 inches long overall, for .223. Would that be good dimensions? I would like to weld a flash hider or muzzle brake in the can for a screw on mount, but am not sure how to go about reducing the opening of the pipe from just under 1.5 in to just under 1in.

[sub-sonic]

I have read all 9 pages and have learned a lot from what sub-sonic has written. I cannot wait to start working on mine when my paper work is all done.

sub-sonic - I might have missed this but how did you connect your can to your sks? I also have a sks I would like a can for. Did you get a pipe collar and pipe that fits it for the same 2 point attachment like you did on the AR?

I made a different mount for the sks I did not show it on here
the barrel on the sks is threaded 9/16-24 and I used a flash hider for the L1A1 rifle as the mount
I use that silencer on my L1A1 more than on the sks
the problem with the sks is the front sight is in the way

Is this a 2-point mount as well or just a standard screw-on? Would you mind posting pics?

I just used a flash hider from the L1A1 rifle (FAL) that slips over the barrel a few inches and screws on. the threads are at the muzzle

[Dazedonred]

[quote="sub-sonic"]
Thank you for clarifying everything even for the less mechanically inclined.This is such an awesome can.My friend did his form 1 to build a can but everything he tried failed(clarity needed here all of the failures were on paper and on the computer before any actual construction)..it was kind of sad to.I showed him your design and we built it in one afternoon following your thread as directions.He built his in .30 and shoots it on several rifles including a .17 hmr its simply works great. I purchased SS Plugs for my future build and kept everything else the same except Im going to be using spacers to reduce wieght by using less baffles including the blast baffle offset holes.When my form 1 is approved I would like to send you some pics to let you see what you've started. Its like a grass roots movement Literally anyone can have a high quality can without the rediculous prices. Thank you so much for sharing. My friend is wondering what changes he would have to make for his .50 Beowolf but he's determined to find out.He has CAD and the 3d liquid pretest software, a lathe and a tig welder so he's ahead of me in the fancy equipment department but Im ahead of him as far as the construction aspect. Thanks again I very excited to get started when the form comes back.

[sst4270]

Reviving this thread for a simple question...

Unless I missed it... Does the exhaust tube need to be heat treated?

Thanks,

Steve

[DucktapeN550Cord]

I followed subsonics build instructions over a year ago on a Form 1 for AR-15. I've got about 100 rounds with a 10.5" barrel and about 400 rounds with a 16" barrel. The first (blast) baffle shows some slight erosion after use on the shorter barrel. So now I only fire it with the 16" barrel unless I'm shooting .22LR through it. Thanks again Subsonic!

[sub-sonic]

I am amazed because its been five and a half years and this is still on page one


as for my builds the 5.56 can has passed thousands of SS109's ( I lost count) but its got to be some where close to 10k and its still going fine. the host gun is on its 3rd barrel and is just about due for a new barrel. the 30cal can is doing good. its got about five hunderd of 7.62x39 full power and some 308 but mostly subsonic 308 and 7.62x39
the .22rf can is still going strong with 8 bulk packs and other assorted ammo through it

the only issue I have is I use way more ammo because of the silencer.
I can shoot alot with out upsetting the horses and the neighbors

[Rikky Lee]

sub-sonic - this is one of the most inspirational designs on the next. Simple and easy and not requiring CAD equipment and access to a professional workshop.

Well done - deserves to be a sticky or something.

[Hard_ware]

Thanks for the simple design!

Here is pic got my form1 back a couple of mths back.

No flash, no blast from muzzle, a bit on the heavy side @ 2lbs 3oz. But works great, only adds 4 1/2 inch to barrel.



Thanks again! subsonic