pvc supressor

[stealthcammo1]

I know this topic has been beat to death but will pvc hold the pressure of a 22. rifle. since a pistol has alill more i think it would be a bad choice. so what does everybody think?

[Hush]

Yes, it will hold the pressure and it will work.
And about your other question try googling for palidin press, they have all the latest books on the subject.

[stealthcammo1]

a few years ago i found one that had the books themselves photocopied along with the pictures. anybody have any ideas. im not stupid if anybody is wondering. i just would like to educate myself because i plan on becoming an class 2 manufacturer later on in my life.

[oct0gen]

i wouldnt attempt it. pvc is not meant for compressed gas nor does it stand up well to shock loading. its strength and brittleness is highly dependant on temperature. when it fails, it will usually fails catastrophically. this means that it will not tear, bend, deform or vent like metal suppressors, it will blow into lots of little fast moving shards. the stress cracking and sandblasting effect of the gas, lead, and unburnt powder will also make your suppressor weaker with each shot. it may stand up to 1 round or 1000 but you’ll never know until you pull the trigger. i and many others have used pvc in amateur rocket motors so we have see what happens when this stuff when it is subjected to heat and compressed gasses. we have the benefit of being some distance away when a failure occurs. one of my friends in rocketry is keen on saying, “remember: pvc does not show up well on x-rays”.

[bp_968]

i wouldnt attempt it. pvc is not meant for compressed gas nor does it stand up well to shock loading. its strength and brittleness is highly dependant on temperature. when it fails, it will usually fails catastrophically. this means that it will not tear, bend, deform or vent like metal suppressors, it will blow into lots of little fast moving shards. the stress cracking and sandblasting effect of the gas, lead, and unburnt powder will also make your suppressor weaker with each shot. it may stand up to 1 round or 1000 but you’ll never know until you pull the trigger. i and many others have used pvc in amateur rocket motors so we have see what happens when this stuff when it is subjected to heat and compressed gasses. we have the benefit of being some distance away when a failure occurs. one of my friends in rocketry is keen on saying, “remember: pvc does not show up well on x-rays”.

Unless it was designed very agressively and small it would have ample volume for 22lr, pistol *or* rifle. Criminals and "agents" the world over have used simplistic plastic suppressors for years. Though I'm not sure about the wisdom of spending 200$ to tax stamp a PVC pipe.

[Hush]

You know if your going the form 1 route conduit is much better, you can pick up a ten foot length from Lowe's or home depot for $8. to $10. bucks.
Its easy to cut down with a pipe cutter.
You can have a machine shop make end caps, a slip fit and held in with setscrews, then you can play with different baffles and spacers, mucho fun!
Cheep Cheep the little bird cried.

[stymie]

NOTE: w/o proper NFA registration & the appropriate TAX... you're looking at 10 years in the slammer & a $250K FINE

REX FERAL aka FRED REXER, the author of "HITMAN" suggests the following:

"DISPOSABLE SILENCER DIRECTIONS
The directions and photographs that follow show in explicit detail how to construct a silencer for a Ruger 10/22 rifle. The same directions can be followed successfully to construct a silencer for any weapon, with only the size of the drill rod used for alignment changed to fit inside the dimension of the barrel.

The following items should be assembled before you begin:

Drill rod, 7/32 inch (order from a machine shop if not obtained locally)

One foot of 1/4 inch brake line from auto parts

One quart of fiberglass resin with hardener

One foot of 1-1/2 inch (inside diameter) PVC piping and two end caps

One yard thin fiberglass mat

One roll of masking tape

One 1/8 inch drill bit

One 3/16 inch drill bit

Handful of rubber bands

Three or four single inch razor blades

One sheet 80 grit sandpaper

Six small wood screws

One box steel wool

Cut a 10-inch section from the brake line. See figure 1. Drill a set of 1/8 inch holes down the length of the tube going in one side and out the other. The holes go all the way through. Notice in the photograph that the holes begin 1-1/2 inches from the end of the tube that fill on the gun.

Next, take a 3/16 inch drill bit and enlarge the holes. See figure 2.

Using masking tape and keeping the tape as free of wrinkles as possible, mask off about six inches of the gun barrel and the end of the barrel. Use only masking tape. Duct tape is too thick and would make for an improper fit. See figure 3.

Then place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake tube aligned. This perfect alignment is extremely important.

If the drill rod you purchase is a little too large, as sometimes happens, put it in a drill and using a file and sandpaper (80 grit), turn down the first six inches until it will fit inside the gun barrel. I operate the drill from the floor with my foot, letting the rod spin between my knees as I reduce the size. Check regularly until you achieve a perfect fit. If you grind the rod too small, cut it off and start over. Fit must be tight with no play. See figure 4.

Wrap glass mat around the gun and tube three times. Secure it with string or rubber bands every half inch to keep it tight and in place. The glass should be wrapped about two inches behind the sight and up to the first hold on the tube. See figure 5.

Now mix the resin. About a shot glassful will do. Mix it two or three times hotter than the package directions.

Brace the gun in an upright position and dab the resin into the glass cloth with a stubby

brush. Keep dabbling until the cloth is no longer white but has become transparent from

absorption of the resin. See figure 6. As soon as the glass is tacky to touch without sticking (times differs according to weather conditions and humidity), it is time to remove the piece from the barrel. Move fast!

First, take a razor blade and cut a notch behind the sight so the piece can be removed.

Then push on the glass to slide it off. Do not pull on the tube. See figure 7. After removing the gun barrel, peel out the tape and allow it to finish hardening. You must work quickly. If you let the glass harden too much on the gun, you will have to cut it off and begin again.

Use a grinder and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the hardening rough surface.

Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the front of the sight makes contact. See figure 8. Cut it down until the barrel fits easily and snugly. Stand the glassed inner tube upright in a vise. Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air

bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the junction of the steel inner tube and glass coupling added strength. See figure 9. Clean the eyedropper with acetone.

Cut the PVC tube to desired length. This one is eight inches. See figure 10. Drill a large hole in the center of one cap, making it large enough to fit on the glass end to the point where the sight makes contact.

Then drill small holes all around the cap at the bottom, as shown, with a 3/16 bit. See figure 11.

Wrap masking tape around the cap to cover the holes. See figure 12. Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the tube.

Cut a lot of 1/2 inch square pieces of fiberglass matting and fill the cap with it up past the level of the small holes.

Mix resin and pour it over the cut glass to a point about 1/4 inch above the holes and allow it to dry before removing the cap from the vise. Don't worry about any resin that leaks out around the base hole. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong enough to take the blast when you fire the gun.

When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and add glass around the backside of the cap for added strength as shown. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits. See figure 13.

Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size. Center the inner tube as you look in the open end of the PVC.

Now drill a 1/8 inch hole in three place around the tube about 1/4 inch from the lip of the cap.

Take the inner tube out and enlarge the holes in the cap to 3/16 inch. See figure 14.

Replace the inner tube and tighten it down with three small wood screws.

Trim the inside tube down until it extends about 1/2 inch beyond the outside PVC tube.

Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use as a punch. Stand the tube up with the solid cap down. Then drop the drill rod down the inner tube to get a true center mark. See figure 15.

Find a drill bit a little larger than the outside diameter of the inner tube. Remove the cap and drill the hole.

Replace the cap on the open end of the PVC and drill three 1/8 inch holes around the cap as before for wood screw.

Grind off any inner tube that sticks out. make it flush with the face of the cap. See figure

16. Unfold the sections of steel wool and roll between palms to make strands as shown. Feed the strands into the silencer tube in a circular motion, packing the wool tight with a

stick. Do this until the tube is completely full. See figure 17. Replace the end cap with the three screws. See figure 18.

Paint the finished silencer black and attach it to your weapons. You may want to ensure proper alignment by wrapping tape or placing a hose clamp around the extension behind the sight. See figure 19.

THE FINISHED PRODUCT
Your finished product is whisper-quiet, the way a silencer is supposed to be! It is inexpensive, effective and reusable for over four hundred rounds before you will need to repack.

This little tool is so easy to make that you will feel no pain when you crush it to bits and throw it away."

[Hush]

Sounds like a lot of work for just 400 rounds.
And it also sounds like you'd better get it right the first time around.

[stealthcammo1]

by any chance you wouldnt have the pics for that book also would you?

[Hush]

Have you tried the site "how stuff works" or "Ask Jeeves" ?
Plug them into your search engine and they have info.

[ranb]

You can have a machine shop make end caps, a slip fit and held in with setscrews, then you can play with different baffles and spacers, mucho fun!
Cheep Cheep the little bird cried.

A form 1 allows you to make one silencer, and only one. The only way you can replace any parts except for wipes is to send it to a licensed manufacturer. I have a letter from the ATF on this.

Ranb

[ArevaloSOCOM]

by any chance you wouldnt have the pics for that book also would you?

google it.

It's s free domain book now thatnks to a dumb ass lawsuit filed agains them under the Clinton years.

Paladin acted like a hard ass, right until the end...........it was set to to to the Supreme Court and he bcukeld like an aluminum can.


In short, he paid a lum sum of cash and promised to never make anymore of the book thus no criminal ever could make a homemade silencer til the end of time.


But what this meant legally is the book can be pulished in FULL for free.



Google it.

[krept]

John Davis, who has posted on firearms forums as "gunkid" or "hardin," is one of the authors of the Paladin books on the subject. I believe he wrote as "Colt .45" for them. He recently wrote a more detailed book, available electronically, regarding a PVC suppressor that uses rolled screenwire baffles that are stamped together with a sort of die.

In any event, his design definitely seems workable although I have not tried it.

[krept]

Also, I believe his suppressor was used in conjunction with a modified Beretta M21. Quite a short barrel, so it should be fine on a rifle.

[Hush]

Also in J. David Truby's book "Silencers, snipers and assassins" he tells and shows of a pvc can that was baffled with corrugated cardboard and said to be pretty good which is why I mentioned pvc might be ok, it will withstand up to 600psi I believe, as to how many rounds it will survive is the question.
And like the other fellow said its hard to see pvc in x rays.

[ColoradoPacker]

John Davis, who has posted on firearms forums as "gunkid" or "hardin," is one of the authors of the Paladin books on the subject. I believe he wrote as "Colt .45" for them. He recently wrote a more detailed book, available electronically, regarding a PVC suppressor that uses rolled screenwire baffles that are stamped together with a sort of die.

In any event, his design definitely seems workable although I have not tried it.

What if we don't have an "assault wheelbarrow" to carry it around in?

[Johnson]

Have you thought about fibreglass or preformed carbon tubing?

there is some talk on the forums in here about carbon tubing being used by some of the manuf's.

I understand they have had problems with it, but surely a .22 tube would hold up.

I know the carbon fibre I used testing on the end of a .308 held up, but the resin (despite a high temp system) wasn't coping at all. One of those things, that had to be tried when you have resin left over after a layup =)

[cup]

ive seen one.. a looonngggg time ago..

10 inches long
2" dia sch 40 pvc
fender washers as baffles squeezed between couplings (4) and 2 caps
copper tube and ss mesh
slip on to 9mm ar
cpvc where there is barrel contact

held up fine

the guy attempted to use a wipe @ the end.. over pressureized and blew the cap off.. cut the remaining edge off and glued another on.

worked very well w/ a bit of water in it. then he sold the rifle

EDIT: do NOT ecpect longevity and durability out of PVC.. its a out of necessity/experimentation material to visualize/test BASIC concept.. in other words dont blow yourself up