408 cheytac can- (updated with range report) 4/10/09
- CanNotHear
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Last edited by CanNotHear on Sun May 24, 2009 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- ArevaloSOCOM
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- locked&loaded
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I think the upgraded profile looks great. Sure was a shame to get rid of those sweet welds. At least you have the pics. Nice work... Very nice work... Wish I had the resources to turn one out like that for my Barrett. Who am I kidding? I'd like to be able to put a can like that on every weapon I own..
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I read this thread a few months ago. very nice to see the results. Your can seemed pretty streight forward and not that difficult to make. A buddy of mine has a machine shop that i could easily build a similar can in for my windrunner. I do have a couple questions though.
What was the dia you used for the holes through the baffles? Just curious how much room you allowed for the dia of the bullet vs the dia of the holes in the baffles?
Also, do you remember what the outside dia of the baffles were? and the outside dia of the can? with that i can tell exactly what schedule and stuff that material was. you said OD was 2" in your first post, but 1.5" NPS actuall has a OD of 1.9". maybe im just splitting hairs, but i would like to know exactl what material that is.
Also very interested to hear what type of POI shift your getting and accuracy affects. I doubt your poi is that much but would be curiouse.
Thanks and that can is awesome, now time to get my Form 1 going! When do you start on your 50 can?
CJG
What was the dia you used for the holes through the baffles? Just curious how much room you allowed for the dia of the bullet vs the dia of the holes in the baffles?
Also, do you remember what the outside dia of the baffles were? and the outside dia of the can? with that i can tell exactly what schedule and stuff that material was. you said OD was 2" in your first post, but 1.5" NPS actuall has a OD of 1.9". maybe im just splitting hairs, but i would like to know exactl what material that is.
Also very interested to hear what type of POI shift your getting and accuracy affects. I doubt your poi is that much but would be curiouse.
Thanks and that can is awesome, now time to get my Form 1 going! When do you start on your 50 can?
CJG
Last edited by rotortuner on Sun Apr 26, 2009 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- jimmym40a2
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rototuner
The hole size I used is 31/64 you can easily get this drill bit size. The inner dia of the tube is 1.8225
Here are some baffle shots before I cut allot of material off the back to thin them out and side cut the front to divert gas.
Accuracy has not suffered. Here is a 3 shot group at 100 yards.I have not done any Point of shift test yet.
The hole size I used is 31/64 you can easily get this drill bit size. The inner dia of the tube is 1.8225
Here are some baffle shots before I cut allot of material off the back to thin them out and side cut the front to divert gas.
Accuracy has not suffered. Here is a 3 shot group at 100 yards.I have not done any Point of shift test yet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEZJ_C4LwzA
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- jimmym40a2
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Above you said, those pics were before you cut into the backs, and also side cut. what do you mean by sidecut?
Also, in that pic, your caliper shows the thickness of the baffle as just under .5", but in the previouse pics at the end of page 1, the baffles look like they are about 1"-1.5" thick. whas this just a test one, or maybe your blast baffle or something before you turned it down?
CJG
Also, in that pic, your caliper shows the thickness of the baffle as just under .5", but in the previouse pics at the end of page 1, the baffles look like they are about 1"-1.5" thick. whas this just a test one, or maybe your blast baffle or something before you turned it down?
CJG
- jimmym40a2
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there are 5 baffles then the end cap. The first and last are like the one above. the 3 middle ones are taller and wider.Like this (this is before I removed material from the back) I made the baffles thick so they would not "cant" in the tube then removed material off the back to make it lighter but left the "edge" thick so it would not cant. With long cones I didn't want any canting and thought the thick edge would help with this.
By side cutting I mean something like this
See how part of the lip is removed to divert the gas sideways in the next camber? I took an end mill and went down 1/4 inch and went sideways to remove some material. So you have a concept something like this
By side cutting I mean something like this
See how part of the lip is removed to divert the gas sideways in the next camber? I took an end mill and went down 1/4 inch and went sideways to remove some material. So you have a concept something like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEZJ_C4LwzA
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- jimmym40a2
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I had the baffle laying flat in the endmill and put a drill (flat not round nose a hair smaller than the hole) in it and put it about 1/4 down in the hole then turned it on and moved straight out to the side.This put a slot that sends the gas at an angle to the next baffle.
same concept as this
same concept as this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEZJ_C4LwzA
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Didnt think about using the collar?
I would have used the collar and made a tube that fits all the way back for the blast chamber, like a reflex or like the SPR/M4 design.............
BTW I love the work you've done, and I'm about to start machining work very soon as soon as my application gets put back in 'GO' status.
I would have used the collar and made a tube that fits all the way back for the blast chamber, like a reflex or like the SPR/M4 design.............
BTW I love the work you've done, and I'm about to start machining work very soon as soon as my application gets put back in 'GO' status.
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Ya, after reading this thread, its what motivated me to file my first F1. I just got the F1 back last week. Now I am trying to decide between building a can along these lines for my .50 or do a more complicated back over the barrel design. I am leaning towards this one though, I think it would be way simpler for a first can, and the design has been kinda proven on this here 408.
CJG
CJG
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- jimmym40a2
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OK thanks, can i see your pics on photo bucket if i just have you screan name?
My friend is finally getting the motor replaced in his lathe so we might finally attempt one of these here in the next month or so. Any new news on your can? have you used it a lot in the last 6 mons or so? Any comments from onlookers on how it sounds?
CJG
My friend is finally getting the motor replaced in his lathe so we might finally attempt one of these here in the next month or so. Any new news on your can? have you used it a lot in the last 6 mons or so? Any comments from onlookers on how it sounds?
CJG
- jimmym40a2
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