50 bmg can help
50 bmg can help
So I have this big ass heavy 50 cal that I havn't shot for a long while. The guy that built it threaded it for a brake but I am leaning towards building a can for it. If one was to build such a beast what would you recommend for baffle design, material, wall thickness, length, dia. Just looking for suggestions to tame this thing. And no I don't have the cash for a commercial can.
- jimmym40a2
- Elite Member
- Posts: 2745
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 8:25 pm
- Location: Colorado (for Mongo)
Flip -I'm going to build one for my 50. I have the approval but haven't had the time to start it. I'm basically going to use the design I used for my 408 can and make it bigger. It's going to be 18 inches long and 3inches dia. I have a couple of ideas to make it lighter. Also check out johnnyO make a nice one if you look at this threads.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEZJ_C4LwzA
johnnyO's -- viewtopic.php?t=20992&highlight=cal+titanium
I ran across the thread by accident searching for Titanium a while back.
I wasn't able to find anything about the completed product, but it was looking great!
I ran across the thread by accident searching for Titanium a while back.
I wasn't able to find anything about the completed product, but it was looking great!
I found this but like you said not much detail after the completion of the muzzle brake. If I can figure out the work holding for the mill and lathe I may try a mono core take apart can. Trying to wrap my head around trying to drill a stright hole through a 20" core.the1mavin wrote:johnnyO's -- viewtopic.php?t=20992&highlight=cal+titanium
I ran across the thread by accident searching for Titanium a while back.
I wasn't able to find anything about the completed product, but it was looking great!
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:35 am
- Location: Norway
- Drill the hole first, starting with a centre drill bitflip wrote: Trying to wrap my head around trying to drill a stright hole through a 20" core.
- turn the piece back&forth and fix the end just inside the chuck and the other on a live centre in the new hole, and turn off just enough of the OD so you can fix it in the chuck.
- flip the piece again and fix on the new concentric OD, and live centre in the hole
- turn new concentric OD on the entire piece
My spindle bore is only 1.5" so I will have to make a cat head and turn it off the 3 jaw and center rest. I have flipped a piece before in the 4 jaw and my holes did not align perfectly so I had to scrap it. Lathe is a 12X36 so if it works it will be tight. Have to do some more thinking. Have AAA looking at some pics to see if he can check the thread job and shoulder on the gun. If all is good f1 will be in the mail next week.Twelveseven wrote:- Drill the hole first, starting with a centre drill bitflip wrote: Trying to wrap my head around trying to drill a stright hole through a 20" core.
- turn the piece back&forth and fix the end just inside the chuck and the other on a live centre in the new hole, and turn off just enough of the OD so you can fix it in the chuck.
- flip the piece again and fix on the new concentric OD, and live centre in the hole
- turn new concentric OD on the entire piece
I've posted plenty since the muzzle brake, your just not searching hard enough.
Video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SBO88xfb_0
Video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SBO88xfb_0
That thing is wicked! Did you take pics of the rest of your build? Can you tell us what you used for baffles and spacing?JohnnyO wrote:I've posted plenty since the muzzle brake, your just not searching hard enough.
Video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SBO88xfb_0
Thanks
Gotta remember the search function sucks balls here. I have searched dozens of 50 threads and not comming up with much in the way of pics of the guts or what type of equipemet you used. I am going to try and make this work on a 12X36 chicom pos lathe and my bp mill if Mike at TT can check/rethread the end of the barrel.JohnnyO wrote:I've posted plenty since the muzzle brake, your just not searching hard enough.
Video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SBO88xfb_0
- jimmym40a2
- Elite Member
- Posts: 2745
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 8:25 pm
- Location: Colorado (for Mongo)
I got all that, even the part that the steps on outside of the can were a design patent.jimmym40a2 wrote:He didn't post the guts. That is his desicision and he wanted to keep it to him self and I respect his decision. But you can still learn allot from what he did post on the size and how effecient it can be.
Was hoping to see how he machined it out or on what type of equipment he used. The bitch for me will be making a holding device to face off and then drill the center on the lathe. Chambers will take some time but can be done on the BP. Still going to go for the mono-take apart route.
Enough said. I can respect that completely. The machining that he did share was great looking.jimmym40a2 wrote:He didn't post the guts. That is his desicision and he wanted to keep it to him self and I respect his decision. But you can still learn allot from what he did post on the size and how effecient it can be.
- jimmym40a2
- Elite Member
- Posts: 2745
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 8:25 pm
- Location: Colorado (for Mongo)
Not much progress, waiting patiently for form to come back but here are some shitty pics. of the most excellent chop and thread job by TT. Barrel was chopped down to 24" and threaded M24X1. Next job, and should have had Mike do while he had it is make a thread protector out of the cut off and start building a brake.
Before
After
The pics. don't do the work justice. I don't even want to compare any of my threadding attempts to TTs but the threads are silky smooth and not short of perfect. Thanks Mike!!!!
Before
After
The pics. don't do the work justice. I don't even want to compare any of my threadding attempts to TTs but the threads are silky smooth and not short of perfect. Thanks Mike!!!!