Well, I finally finished my .223 AR suppressor build and test. I wanted it test it to make sure it didnt' suck, before I presented it to the world.

I put it on my SBR and it sounds great.

I brought it over to my local 07/SOT and he has a YHM QD, we shot them side by side and there is no difference that I can tell between the two.

This is an all stainless Form 1 can. It is 1.5 OD with a .065 wall. All the internals are 303, and the tube and endcaps are 304 stainless.

I went with an unusual design, but it seems to work. About 1/3 of the 8" OAL is a blast chamber. I decided to make my blast baffle be the front edge of a K-baffle. The a 30 dregee cone baffle, followed by three 45 degree cone baffles.

So - here it is.

With my Glock 17 and DeGroat Mk99 Mod 0

I decided to make a golf ball launcher too !!! A lot of fun

That is nice looking. Is it common to mix baffle types like that? did you do it just to keep the length down or some other reason?

Thanks

Jeff

I just acquired a golf ball launcher as well. What kind of distance/height do you get with that? Ever measure distance in air to calculate how high it goes? I have yet to use the launcher.

I have plenty of blanks mind you.

That looks good

I just got one of the NcStar launchers, and it shoots the s--t out of golf balls.



Are you planning on putting some sort of finish on the can? like gun kote or powder coat?

I assume this is how you would measure how high it goes.... please correct me if I am wrong.

Is this how you calculate it?

Distance= ½gt²

g = Force due to gravity(9.8 meters per second squared)
t = time

We can measure how long it takes from the gunshot to the ball hitting the ground. Cut this measurement in half our purposes, that is not the best but it works. Make sure you have this in seconds.

Plug that time into the equation for t. Solve the equation. That is how far it fell.... or in other words, how high it was.

This equation does not take into account air resistance especially for a super-velocity object like a golf ball launched by a gunshot. It will not give you an exact value, but it will be fairly close.

If someone can SEE the ball when it hits the top of the arc and measure the fall time from THAT point you will get a more accurate answer for the height of the falling object.

Oh, that equation gives you METERS, so you guys living under the english measurement system of the 1890s will need to convert meters to feet.

1 meter = 3.2808399 feet

I popped off two golf balls with lake city surplus blanks. I dont know how high they went, but I held the rifle at about a 45 degree angle, maybe a little steeper, and I think they went about 300 yards



I don't know why I decided to mix the baffle type. I was going to go with a cone baffle design, and I decided to make the first one different. Cones and flat washers do a good job of blocking the forward movement of the gasses, but they pretty much do nothing to redirect the gas back on itself. I thought a total K-baffle design might get a little heavy, since a K is heavier than a cone. So I took a chance - as a Form 1 builder, that is what we have to do sometimes - I am quite satisfied with the results.

ick wrote:I assume this is how you would measure how high it goes.... please correct me if I am wrong.

Is this how you calculate it?

Distance= ½gt²

g = Force due to gravity(9.8 meters per second squared)
t = time

We can measure how long it takes from the gunshot to the ball hitting the ground. Cut this measurement in half our purposes, that is not the best but it works. Make sure you have this in seconds.

Plug that time into the equation for t. Solve the equation. That is how far it fell.... or in other words, how high it was.

This equation does not take into account air resistance especially for a super-velocity object like a golf ball launched by a gunshot. It will not give you an exact value, but it will be fairly close.

If someone can SEE the ball when it hits the top of the arc and measure the fall time from THAT point you will get a more accurate answer for the height of the falling object.

If you have a chrono, and measure "muzzle" velocity of the golf ball, then you could use the equation:

.5 * [Velocity*sin(angle of trajectory)] ^2 = g * Height

g= 9.81m/s^2 or 32.2 ft/s^2



this is simple enough to estimate height, as friction (air resistance) is extremely difficult to account for, since there is no linear relationship to air resistance and velocity and cross sectional area.

Looks great!

What is the large black 'disk' between the back of the can and the muzzle? Is the can a reflex design?

Wicked wrote:What is the large black 'disk' between the back of the can and the muzzle? Is the can a reflex design?

looks like a qd system to me

The black disc is the rear of the flash hider is part of the locking mechanism in the QD mount. I made this to fit a YHM QD phantom mount.
(actually I decided to use the Wraith 9mm flash hider - it is shorter and looks better to my eye on the SBR)



I asked YHM, about their thread specs, but they did not disclose, so I had to reverse-engineer it.

Here's one w/o the supressor mounted on it.



Since that photo was taken, I moved the laser to the other side, moved the front sling mount to the front left side of the forearm and added a VTAC type 2-point tactical sling. I like it better than that quick sling that is shown)

awesome. clean up the welds and sand/ bead blast it.

We don't get to see the insides?

silverbulletexpress wrote:We don't get to see the insides?

Sorry, I didn't think to photograph it before it was welded.

delta9mda wrote:awesome. clean up the welds and sand/ bead blast it.

It's been sandblasted once already. I think I might just leave the welds the way they are. They really aren't bad. They obviously don't look like they were machine-welded, but they aren't too bad for hand welding. I don't have a Tig, so I had another guy weld it up for me (while I was there waiting on it to be done of course)

I am thinking I might leave it in raw stainless, rather than paint/bake it. But I'm not sure.

WhisperFan wrote:The black disc is the rear of the flash hider is part of the locking mechanism in the QD mount. I made this to fit a YHM QD phantom mount.



I asked YHM, about their thread specs, but they did not disclose, so I had to reverse-engineer it.

OK, now I get it. Yours is the first F1 home-brew can I am able to recall that used a real QD mount.

Nice work.

Wicked wrote:

WhisperFan wrote:The black disc is the rear of the flash hider is part of the locking mechanism in the QD mount. I made this to fit a YHM QD phantom mount.



I asked YHM, about their thread specs, but they did not disclose, so I had to reverse-engineer it.

OK, now I get it. Yours is the first F1 home-brew can I am able to recall that used a real QD mount.

Nice work.

No, I think that was mine.

Why didn't you put the ratcheting indents all the way round?

I plan to put one every ten degrees, like the Phantom has.

JohnnyO wrote:

Wicked wrote:

WhisperFan wrote:The black disc is the rear of the flash hider is part of the locking mechanism in the QD mount. I made this to fit a YHM QD phantom mount.



I asked YHM, about their thread specs, but they did not disclose, so I had to reverse-engineer it.

OK, now I get it. Yours is the first F1 home-brew can I am able to recall that used a real QD mount.

Nice work.

No, I think that was mine.

sick nice