Design I put together based on what I have read on the forums.

Going to mount her on a .22 rifle (Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22)

Any suggestions? Got the baffle idea partially from silencerresearch.com/norrell_custom_can.htm

some sim pics

velocity isn't calculating right. just wanted to look at the flow through the tube

Expansion chamber's too big for a .22LR . On my suppressor, I discovered that you need expansion chambers less than an inch long in order for FRP to be manageable.

You can improve the expansion of gasses at the blast chamber through favourable expansion geometry, i.e. after the gun's muzzle, make a nozzle angled 60 degrees so that the Coanda effect helps gasses expand better, making your blast baffle more efficient.

Add a muzzle brake to the end of the mount.

Not that it matters, but those look like M baffles rather than K baffles.

What flow modeling software are you using?

Armorer-at-Law wrote:Not that it matters, but those look like M baffles rather than K baffles.

What flow modeling software are you using?

Solidworks 2010. FloXpress is integrated in it

Hi,

My .2 cents follow:

1) Agree with LavaRed, avoid FRP and make your Blast smaller than 1''
2) Theese are not K's but M's. Reconsider your design and go one of them, not a mix both. Already tried and doesn't work.
3) Bullet path is .245. Right ?. Go more for your first can unless someone else is building for you. .285
4) Go 7 inches total tube and spread Baffles at equal distances. 5/6 Baffles + Blast is all you need.
5) Fasten Front & Rear Caps fron inside insted of from outside. Thread caps outside.
6) Don't talk about spacer due to the fact that is not clear if those are K's or M's: In case of M's, do comunicate all the chambers.

If you are trying to make a dual Can (22 and 223) i do recommend you to start thinking on splitting Blast Chamber and Baffles Chamber so you can have one Blast per Caliber and share Baffles one. I tried and do OK. Tricky.

Best,

Paul

PaulNoiseLess wrote:Hi,

My .2 cents follow:

1) Agree with LavaRed, avoid FRP and make your Blast smaller than 1''
2) Theese are not K's but M's. Reconsider your design and go one of them, not a mix both. Already tried and doesn't work.
3) Bullet path is .245. Right ?. Go more for your first can unless someone else is building for you. .285
4) Go 7 inches total tube and spread Baffles at equal distances. 5/6 Baffles + Blast is all you need.
5) Fasten Front & Rear Caps fron inside insted of from outside. Thread caps outside.
6) Don't talk about spacer due to the fact that is not clear if those are K's or M's: In case of M's, do comunicate all the chambers.

If you are trying to make a dual Can (22 and 223) i do recommend you to start thinking on splitting Blast Chamber and Baffles Chamber so you can have one Blast per Caliber and share Baffles one. I tried and do OK. Tricky.

Best,

Paul

going to post up a pic of the tweaked design soon


thanks for your advice, ill definitely check out k's and m's and research each individually

the tube is already threaded internally and the caps are threaded externally. it is clearly visible in the first image

As far as your advice for not making it myself if I want tight tolerances - the products I currently manufacture are +0 -.001 on average; I am fully aware of geometric tolerancing. I assure you someone else is going to make it sloppier than if I made it myself.

Now if you are concerned with the ID being too small in due to regards of functionality and safety, then I welcome your advice on the best ID for my design.

Thanks,

SlowRiderr wrote:

PaulNoiseLess wrote:Hi,

My .2 cents follow:

1) Agree with LavaRed, avoid FRP and make your Blast smaller than 1''
2) Theese are not K's but M's. Reconsider your design and go one of them, not a mix both. Already tried and doesn't work.
3) Bullet path is .245. Right ?. Go more for your first can unless someone else is building for you. .285
4) Go 7 inches total tube and spread Baffles at equal distances. 5/6 Baffles + Blast is all you need.
5) Fasten Front & Rear Caps fron inside insted of from outside. Thread caps outside.
6) Don't talk about spacer due to the fact that is not clear if those are K's or M's: In case of M's, do comunicate all the chambers.

If you are trying to make a dual Can (22 and 223) i do recommend you to start thinking on splitting Blast Chamber and Baffles Chamber so you can have one Blast per Caliber and share Baffles one. I tried and do OK. Tricky.

Best,

Paul

going to post up a pic of the tweaked design soon


thanks for your advice, ill definitely check out k's and m's and research each individually

the tube is already threaded internally and the caps are threaded externally. it is clearly visible in the first image

As far as your advice for not making it myself if I want tight tolerances - the products I currently manufacture are +0 -.001 on average; I am fully aware of geometric tolerancing. I assure you someone else is going to make it sloppier than if I made it myself.

Now if you are concerned with the ID being too small in due to regards of functionality and safety, then I welcome your advice on the best ID for my design.

Thanks,

I've had good results with .25" for a.22LR can. However, I do think you need to go at least .27" for the .223, in case of any variations on the bullet itself.

LavaRed wrote:
I've had good results with .25" for a.22LR can. However, I do think you need to go at least .27" for the .223, in case of any variations on the bullet itself.

Thank you very much. I will make the change to .250 for the ID.

I went with 17/64 (.265 ish) My threading jobs on my .22 rifle's weren't what I consider good threads for a can so thats why i bumped it up from .250. but no baffle strikes on all 3 .22's so I am good to go