Offset silencer design.

[ranb]

I converted my Enfield No. 1 to 45 acp with a Rhineland Arms conversion kit. It shoots ok but feeds unreliably, and does not eject spent brass.

The British original had a set back barrel, shortened bolt and offset silencer, all of which mine lack.

I put more threads on the barrel and turned it down to .690" to allow it to be set back closer to the magazine.





I will need to make and attach a feed ramp to the mag adaptor to allow fedding from the magazine.

Making offset baffles and aligning them properly still eludes me though. Short barreled rifle possession is still a felony in WA (unless registered by 1994) so I will have to weld the can to the barrel.



Ranb

[Bowen1911]

might be a bit of a pain, but i have an idea that might work.

Figure out what offset you want, and get that part centered in a 4 jaw. drill the bore and turn the inside of the cone. then ( the shitty part) use a parting tool to turn the outside of the cone profile, but then you run into the also shitty part of the tool cutting, then not cutting, then cutting etc.. till you get in far enough.


Keep us updated with how you do it

[ranb]

Four jaw chuck is not an option right now. I am thinking of making a monocore that I can permanently attach to the bore. Make the outer can removal for cleaning. Insert a few baffles around the monocore to trap gas.

If I can find a four jaw that will fit my Grizzly lathe, then I may have to try machining individual baffles. I could also machine one inch baffles and weld them off center to steel disks.

Ranb

[Capt. Link.]

I noticed that the magazine you are using are for wad-cutters / HP's try using FMJ mil type magazines they should control the bullet till it enters the chamber.

[ranb]

Tried a standard mag, doesn't work. It needs a ramp of some sort. I am not going to machine a ramp into the barrel 1911 style unless nothing else works. I think a ramp built into the mag adaptor that mates with the barrel is the way to go.

Ranb

[Capt. Link.]

I agree the ramp is the way to go.You have never described what happens when you try to feed a bullet into the chamber.I've done one offset design and I plug welded the baffles into the tube then used a alignment rod through the baffle stack to time it to the barrel. I kept with the basic Archimedes screw idea of De Lisle but welded two split disc's together then drilled the passage basically a two turn screw with .25 spacing.I have lots of time for the next 60 days or so, my skills as a gunsmith are at your disposal.

[ohnomrbillk]

I'm working on a coaxial design that may help you out. I have no pictures at the moment, but I think I can describe it.

The diameter of the inner tube is the same OD as the barrel at the receiver. Thread the short barrel, and screw the tube on. It is concentric with the bore. Blind pin and weld it on. Your length should be 16" or more at this point, and the SBR goes away.

A washer, or something similar is welded to the inside of the tube so that a few inches of space exist between the muzzle of the true barrel and the washer. The baffles will not progress further proximally because of the washer. A baffle stack is created for this inner tube. Pick your poison, but I am leaning towards K baffles for a 45.

The blast chamber that exists between the muzzle of the true muzzle and the washer is vented.

A larger tube surrounds the entire barrel and baffle stack assembly. The threaded endcap is offset (as well as what it indexes on proximally), so the out tube is NOT concentric with the bore. The centerline of this outer tube is pushed downwards so that you may be able to have a reasonable sight plane.

I have another thread going here:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=70537

And this picture (not mine) describes the tube within a tube, but does not take advantage of being offset:



As an alternative, you may look at AAC's 10/22 setup:

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=67766

You could make a monocore, and then have the outer tube offset.

Either option would allow you to make concentric baffles with an eccentric out tube.

Keep us posted of your progress. Best of luck.

[SRM]

Don`t need a four jaw, 3jaw and shims under one jaw. A little trickier but works.

[ranb]

I agree the ramp is the way to go.You have never described what happens when you try to feed a bullet into the chamber.

The middle of the bullet nose hits the bottom of the chamber and goes no farther.

The 3-jaw with the shim sounds like a good idea.

Ranb

[SRM]

Don`t need a four jaw, 3jaw and shims under one jaw. A little trickier but works.

Works good for short pieces that you dont want to rechuck, rechuck-not so good( tricky).

[daved20319]

Four jaw chuck is not an option right now. I am thinking of making a monocore that I can permanently attach to the bore. Make the outer can removal for cleaning. Insert a few baffles around the monocore to trap gas.

If I can find a four jaw that will fit my Grizzly lathe, then I may have to try machining individual baffles. I could also machine one inch baffles and weld them off center to steel disks.

Ranb

I'm a newb to this forum, stumbled across it while researching silencers for airguns, yes, airguns . Some of the modern precharged pneumatics (PCP's) can be as noisy as a .22 LR, and can reach similar power levels. But that's not the reason for this post.

I'm a fellow Washingtonian, and I also have a Grizzly lathe, with a 4 jaw chuck. If it will fit your machine, and if we can figure out how to get it to you, you're welcome to borrow it, I'm not using it and don't expect to any time soon. Let me know if you're interested. Later.

Dave

[Capt. Link.]

"I am leaning towards K baffles for a 45."
K's do not work well for .45 the K is a pressure driven baffle

[wolf]

"I am leaning towards K baffles for a 45."
K's do not work well for .45 the K is a pressure driven baffle

Tirant ,45 uses (kind of ) `K`s

[Bowen1911]

"I am leaning towards K baffles for a 45."
K's do not work well for .45 the K is a pressure driven baffle

Tirant ,45 uses (kind of ) `K`s

and if i am not mistaken, the TiRant is really quiet....

[ohnomrbillk]

"I am leaning towards K baffles for a 45."
K's do not work well for .45 the K is a pressure driven baffle

What baffle would you suggest for the 45? Link below has some M vs K discussion for it.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=70151

[pmercer]

Don`t need a four jaw, 3jaw and shims under one jaw. A little trickier but works.

Or an alternative to this is to open the chuck jaws until one jaw can be removed. Tighten up the chuck so that the chuck thread turns once, twice or whatever and then insert the 3rd jaw into the chuck. Keep on turning and the chuck will tighten off center.

Remember that all 3 jaws are different so by swapping them around and inserting them in the wrong order (as well as skipping a thread) will give minor changes to the offset.
You can also put the jaws on say the 1st, 2nd and 3rd thread of the chuck to give more adjustment.

Make sure that if you do this your rpm is low. I'd advise cutting the outside diameter of the baffle normally, then offset the baffle so youre only making the bullet hole whilst the piece is 'wobbling'

[ranb]

Cool. Now all I have to do is label each jaw and its position in the chuck, then do on purpose what I have done by accident a few times hahahahahha. Good tip.

Ranb

[wolf]

Cool. Now all I have to do is label each jaw and its position in the chuck, then do on purpose what I have done by accident a few times hahahahahha. Good tip.

Ranb

Are your jaws not numbered ?? (the ones in you chuck )

Plus the slots in the chuck should have numbers

If not


if you have air , then from time to time remove the jaws

look at the threads turn the key insert the nozle , and screw so that the spiral goes outwards
this way you can get the dirt out from the treads

if things has grow into something sticky , , use some solvent and a brush

[ranb]

It is possible that I overlooked the numbers, but I did not see any the last time I removed them.

Ranb

[SRM]

YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Have youall noticed the directions that came with the chuck? They say to keep them greased up! I call BS to that unless you want to spend more time cleaning that spinning.

Dont forget the pics sir ranb!!!!!!!!

[SRM]

If you go to add #`s to the jaws( if they aren`t) they are hard and will trash a set of stamps.

[daved20319]

Check the slot above the teeth on the jaws, where it slides into the chuck. That's where they stamped the numbers on the 3 jaw on my Grizzly 12x24. Of course, I didn't find them until I took the chuck apart for cleaning. Later.

Dave

[ranb]

I will check in the grooves of my Grizzly lathe. I was thinking of a vibrating pencil engraver if they need numbering.

I will have to try these ideas next week as I am packing for a Vegas trip today. I am retrieving half of my silencer collection that I left there so I could avoid hauling them back and forth. With silencer use in WA soon to be legal (on July 23), they belong in my home instead of in exile.

Ranb

[mg81]

Pencil engravers work nicely for writing on things that are hard, but they can be at little shallow unless you go over the letter/number a bunch of times to make it deep.

If you are lazy like I often am then I normally number things with a spring loaded center punch. My 3 jaw has a single punch on the #1 jaw and a matching one on the chuck, two punches in a row for the #2 jaw and a matching row of two dots on the chuck, etc.

Very quick and dirty, does not damage my numbering sets, very fast to do a bunch of punches on same spot to make it as deep as I want and does not hit so hard that I am worried about damaging/cracking some hardened piece of steel, which I often am when I start to use a numbering set with a hammer on hard steel. In fact I use a spring loaded center punch to mark almost everything, good for putting indexing marks on many things for alignment purposes, only takes one hand, so the other one can be holding things in place.

I am really off topic now, best of luck with the off center turning. I hope you find a 4 jaw that will work for you, they are the only thing I use anymore. Otherwise everyone else gave all a bunch of great ideas.

[ranb]

I think I will go with a monocore permanently attached to the barrel to get around the SBR restrictions in WA. A 1 inch or 1-1/8th inch core would do the thing I think. It would also eliminate the alignment issues with the 2 inch outer can and the baffles set around the core.

Aluminum is acceptable for 45acp and easier to machine, but I just need a way to permanently attach the aluminum core to the steel barrel. Suggestions?