Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
After not being able to get ADCO on the phone to get my pistol barrels threaded I asked my local C2 if he could help.
I hated to ask because I only have weekends off. He said OK but only had 1/2 day today for me to get them done.
Actually he told me I had to do most the work and he would finish them so they were done right in case I screwed up.
He did a great job finishing them and they came out as perfect as they get and it only cost me $40. each. I need to finish the thread protectors at home. Threads are 1/2"x28.
SWR needs to pay more attention to QC cause the small hole on one side of the piston was only drilled out on 1/2 of one side of the hole.
My C2 guy caught it when checking the fit on the piston and both barrels fit perfect. He finished out the hole for me.
Next weekend I can finally shoot my new Trident 9.
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If you're not part of the solution, you're not only "part" of the problem but, you "are" the problem.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Capt. Link. wrote:Very cool great pics what did you use
Southbend 13" with 6 jaw chuck. He indicated the bore with a 4-1/2" long steel pin gauge .3465 diameter.
He said if a machinist can't thread .0005 or less concentric they should get another job.
I'm dropping off my NIB Ruger MKII next week to get threaded 1/2"x28 and pick it up when it's done.
He said he has 16 more barrels to thread so I guess he does alot of threading.
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If you're not part of the solution, you're not only "part" of the problem but, you "are" the problem.
Bandit, " ..He indicated the bore with a 4-1/2" long steel pin gauge .3465 diameter."
VERY SMART!!
Once I saw a dummy true on the barrel and when I suggested he might consider doing it on the
bore [ I used to be civil and diplomatic in my youth ] I got
"What do you know about machining. I have been doing this for years.
It is good enough".
Bandit wrote:
Southbend 13" with 6 jaw chuck. He indicated the bore with a 4-1/2" long steel pin gauge .3465 diameter.
He said if a machinist can't thread .0005 or less concentric they should get another job.
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A 6 jaw 6" chuck is exactly what I have been thinking of buying for my new lathe. Seems like it has all the advantages, of being exact, and will work better when I start to machine some K baffles as well.
Old Wanderer wrote:
A 6 jaw 6" chuck is exactly what I have been thinking of buying for my new lathe. Seems like it has all the advantages, of being exact, and will work better when I start to machine some K baffles as well.
A 3 jaw chuck will work for making baffles but doing threads needs to be more precise.
I think he had a Gator chuck and each separate jaw is micro adjustable after snugged down. Cost something like $900. for it. Took only 10 minutes to dial in the barrel bore.
jaredr wrote:
can you advise what is the mount you've installed?
Uh that's the piston for the booster on my Trident 9 I fixed the quote too.
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If you're not part of the solution, you're not only "part" of the problem but, you "are" the problem.
I finished making my thread caps and dropped everything off to my C2 guy with my Ruger MKII to get threaded and everything refinished. Maybe get them back end of next week or so.
I made the thread caps look like the original barrel was never altered just like he suggested.
Will show more pics of finished work when I get everything back in hand.
If you're not part of the solution, you're not only "part" of the problem but, you "are" the problem.
Old Wanderer wrote:A 6 jaw 6" chuck is exactly what I have been thinking of buying for my new lathe. Seems like it has all the advantages, of being exact, and will work better when I start to machine some K baffles as well.
6-jaw chucks rock, but get an "adjust-tru" variety. Having one is like having a giant set of 5C collets by 0.0002". Actually better, because even the best collets have measurable runout, whereas these chucks can be tweaked to zero, and much faster (and better gripping) than a 4-jaw.
I understand why you would use a pinguage to be concentric, but why would you not use a live center? I have seen guys make bore guids out of brass, but never steel.
J Krammes wrote:I understand why you would use a pinguage to be concentric, but why would you not use a live center? I have seen guys make bore guids out of brass, but never steel.
Jk
A live center is ok for other work but to be more concentric to the bore there is better ways.
Brass or steel bore guides works fine or you can purchase them for any bore size like this one for 30 cal http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/de ... ber=766634
Got my stuff back from the SOT2. Everything got refinished with parkerizing. I am very happy how they turned out.
I even got my AR15 9mm barrel shortened to 5" and refinished. Now waiting for my Ruger MKII to be threaded and refinished.
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If you're not part of the solution, you're not only "part" of the problem but, you "are" the problem.
] I got
I fixed the quote too. 
