Hi,

It happens now that I’m not taking orders for Custom Cans till I finish a large Project with a good Customer. It’s for a week or so. Standard Plans are still welcome in the meantime.

At the same time I do not have any “Sexy MacGiver Can” to play with right now, build and relax. I really like and enjoy them. I’ve been looking around my e-mail’s and looks like a MagLite tube one is the winner. Second place is for PCP AirGuns …

My question is: What Maglite should I buy for a .22LR Can ?, It should be in the range of 1 or 1.25 inches OD. I've already made Cans out of Flash Lights but all based on Bazaar ones, you know … Cheap !

Once the Tube is defined I’ll start to think how to build a Non-Lathe Can once more. B-Baffles … (?)

I just love dirty full metal Cans !

Best,

Paul

google the diff sizes. the "d" cell are approx 1.375-1.5 give or take.

the aa cell lights are too small, less than 1".

i dont see why the "c" cell light wouldnt be great. extra volume but not too big. they even come with one threaded end cap.

I've been toying with this idea for some time. I even did a drawing of it, which I can't seem to find right now. If I find it i will post it.

Here we go...








What do you think? Buildable?

I have seen many of those flashlight tubes with threads not centered. If you need to recut threads, why not start with a blank tube?

Hi,

I’m going to go with the c-cell one. 2 or 3 batteries, don’t know jet. I have several raw FEPs that could match ID (or be close) so I could push some Boobies out of them.

Once in hand I’ll work around the issues on concentricity due to threading.

I just finished two B-Baffles Cans for my new .22s and still surprised how quiet they are and also the Mold working @ 0,265 bore diameter. I just spend 1 and a half hours for the full Can so it doesn’t really matter if they just last for few thousands shots.

Best,

Paul

how will you do the end caps? thats the part ive been struggling with in my head for a "hand made" maglite can. im thinking jb weld an A1 flash hider in the battery cap to use for the mount, and just screw/rivet a flat freeze plug flush with the other end for the end cap..

MattNificent wrote:how will you do the end caps? thats the part ive been struggling with in my head for a "hand made" maglite can. im thinking jb weld an A1 flash hider in the battery cap to use for the mount, and just screw/rivet a flat freeze plug flush with the other end for the end cap..

there is one cap that comes with the light itself, the rear. all you need to do is bore it.

when doing these you need to cut the tube before the on/ off switch and then thread for the cap/ mount.

MattNificent wrote:how will you do the end caps? thats the part ive been struggling with in my head for a "hand made" maglite can. im thinking jb weld an A1 flash hider in the battery cap to use for the mount, and just screw/rivet a flat freeze plug flush with the other end for the end cap..

Looking at a 3-cell Maglite and after reading delta9mda's post I wonder if it is
practical to buy another Maglite and commandeer it's end cap as the front of the first?
Now you could have a symmetrical cylinder to start with.

Could this configuration be practical in terms of machining threads for the front of the can?

Just a thought.

delta9mda wrote:

MattNificent wrote:how will you do the end caps? thats the part ive been struggling with in my head for a "hand made" maglite can. im thinking jb weld an A1 flash hider in the battery cap to use for the mount, and just screw/rivet a flat freeze plug flush with the other end for the end cap..

there is one cap that comes with the light itself, the rear. all you need to do is bore it.

when doing these you need to cut the tube before the on/ off switch and then thread for the cap/ mount.

but if you didnt want to thread anything?

A bit off topic but, am I the only one that thinks most of RedJacket's silencers look like they were made from maglite bodies?

I've seen several pictures of people making silencers from MagLites. It would make for an interesting project.

Hi,

For the rear cap, I’ll go with the included threaded one. For the front cap, I’ll use a Freeze Expansion Plug whose ID fits the OD and just press (using a thin metal sheet) to get it fit. Then bore it out.

I should have the MagLite tomorrow so as soon as I finish some pending projects, I’ll start working.

Still thinking on the Baffles … rather than B-Baffles I’d like to go something new … I have to go town tomorrow so I'll see what I can use.

Best,

Paul

PaulNoiseLess wrote:Hi,

For the rear cap, I’ll go with the included threaded one. For the front cap, I’ll use a Freeze Expansion Plug whose ID fits the OD and just press (using a thin metal sheet) to get it fit. Then bore it out.

I should have the MagLite tomorrow so as soon as I finish some pending projects, I’ll start working.

Still thinking on the Baffles … rather than B-Baffles I’d like to go something new … I have to go town tomorrow so I'll see what I can use.

Best,

Paul

on the rear cap, are you just going to thread it? or add in some extra metal or something?

Hi,

I still don’t know. It depends on how thick the Cap is. If it’s not thick enough, I’ll insert (press) a piece of Alu to get it thicker.

I’ve done flashlight Cans before out of Chinese bazaar ones. It’s the first time I do MagLites.

Remember it’s going to be a Lathe/Mill less Can. Or some lathe, but legal and no Form 1 required.

The answer, tomorrow night or the day after (Wednesday, right ?)

Best,

Paul

PaulNoiseLess wrote:Hi,

I still don’t know. It depends on how thick the Cap is. If it’s not thick enough, I’ll insert (press) a piece of Alu to get it thicker.

I’ve done flashlight Cans before out of Chinese bazaar ones. It’s the first time I do MagLites.

Remember it’s going to be a Lathe/Mill less Can. Or some lathe, but legal and no Form 1 required.

The answer, tomorrow night or the day after (Wednesday, right ?)

Best,

Paul

its sunday night here in Texas..i have a 2 cell C maglite ive been looking over, id get a 3 cell for use as a can though..

Hi,

I’ve got the MagLite now. For some reason, they sent me one that is 1.5 inches OD and 0.1 wall. No problem, I like it.

OK, here is the deal: We’ll go for a .223RM Can instead of a .22LR one. The Tube (after cutting) is just 6 inches x 1.5 OD x 0.1 Walls.

Looks great: Nice finish and strong walls.

The threaded Cap is not thick enough for threading to the muzzle so I’ll take this one as end/front cap. For the rear cap, I’ll do an Alu insert thick enough to thread (1/2 – 20) and also empty so we can enjoy 1 extra inch and have the Blast right in there. The insert will be pressed and pined.

I like this Tube. It merits good Baffles so I’ll go Lathe instead of FEPs. I’ll use one FEP (the one shown) for Blast (it’s mild steel) and the rest is going to be Alu, a good punch of them.

The other option (good one having one cap threaded) is to go for a MonoCore but I just can’t machine a good shape.

Pic shows my brand new torch right after arrival. Well, 5 minutes later … right after meeting my Puky …

I’m going to call this Can the “Coffee Bean” and the Video Tutorial is going to enjoy Caribbean and fresh Coffee music & taste …

Best,

Paul

looks like you got the D-battery one...could you do me a favor and get the measurement of inside the battery cap? the hole where the spare bulb would sit...cant wait to see the finished product..

Paul,

Having seen the new season of Boardwalk Empire last night, US HBO,
especially the corrupt Federal Officer enforcing the Volstead Act, your showing a new use for
a MAGLITE could lead to their being declared a NFA prohibited
suppressor.

With the US wacko marxists who want to tax working folks into
oblivion can we put it past the anti Second Amendment sewers to try and latch onto this to require a
$200.00 stamp to buy and own the flashlight?

[Back in 1960's we used to joke that if marxists were not relegated to the trash heap
of history they would eventually find a way to tax air. How does that Hope and Change
work for CO2?]

Hi,

Threaded Cap ID is 1.135. There is also a step (at the beginning, on the other side of the o-ring) that goes 1.265 for 0.0125. So it’s:

1.265 x 0.0125 then 1.135 x 0.665.

Having a Country with more than 300 Million Guns I do not understand you still have issues with those Marxists. I even do not understand there still one there … Give me a call and can organice with some of my old folks to give you a hand. I just have seven fingers, mostly deaf, wounded knee and can’t see very well but, s--t !, I don’t miss a fly at 350 yards with my old .243.

Stock MagLites. It's the future. This is how the rear cap and blast looks like now. My Puky is happy now eating Alu ships, listening rock & roll and sharing beer. It's warm already here. Spring is coming.

Best,

Paul

Hi,

It’s done now. I just found some spare Omega Baffles that i turned OD to match Maglites ID. Then just drill the front cap (the threaded one) and press the rear cap to the tube (1/32 extra tolerance diameter). I’m using the included spring to push the Blast cone into the Blast chamber.

Bore diameter is 0.275. Muzzle threading is 20 TPI and really tight. You can actually still use the torch bell to hide the Can and just leave it next to the windshield …

I had a few .22LR shots at home and works just fine. I don’t think it’s for a .223RM. Just .22LR.

I have taken pics and vids of all the process so I’ll edit a Video and post in YouTube.

I just found that there is no need to remove the switch and cut the Tube. I’m going to negotiate this one for a new Maglite, 3 or 4 cells and go for a .223 or .308 with both caps threaded and using the bell as rear cap.

I like it but it’s been too easy.

Best,

Paul

How concentric is the inside of the flashlight?

Hi,

There is a simple answer to this one: Just don’t know but can shoot thru 0.275 without hits at all.

I can’t go smaller because that Baffles I did use were build on that bore so can go higher but not smaller.

Yes, I was also surprised but really works fine. It’s very quiet but too heavy for a .22LR. You’ll see once the Vid is done. Yael has been shooting pigeons and doves since I sent the last post and just works fine. That’s why I want to negotiate this one and go for a bigger one.

I can give a try to subsonics .243WM but I’m scare to break it. My .223 is on vacations now …

Best,

Paul

Try the .22 hornet. I think it`ll take it.

Hi,

Yesterday night i did hack the lamp holder to have a bolt that threads into the rear cap. This way, I can screw the can to the holder and when you look from the front side, you see the lamp. I also made a torch holder to hide the front cap hole.

So, it’s now a perfectly hidden Suppressor that run out of batteries … and switch …

Best,

Paul

Paul, superb craftsmanship.

I always enjoy the Brit and Aussie idiom in " I also made a torch holder .."
Operationally, we are incorrect in using the word FLASHlight ... unless of course
one is sending an S-O-S.

By chance as you were machining your TORCH was the background music
that you used to inspire you:

"You Light Up My Life".