Internal Threading

[Nypto]

Just getting started and will probably screw up several tubes. I just bought a 7-14 mini lathe. Are there any links I can use to learn how to thread the internal tube and endcap?
Also where to buy the dyes, dies or whatever?
I plan to pick everone's brain along the way if you don't mind
Thanks

[Capt. Link.]

Threads should be single point cut on your lathe! no tap no die.

[rqlasl]

Youtube has some good videos on ID threading on a lathe.

[Enfield577]

I tend to cut the internal thread first, you get a bit of spring in the boring tool and it seems less accurate, then when you cut the caps to fit the tube it all seems a bit more rigid

Some won't agree but I have done four tubes and six end caps (two more to go) today with no problems

Also given that in use suppressors are by nature dirty I tend to cut the threads a bit on the loose side, i do most of mine in light alloy and found if too tight they soon bind up.

Good luck

[Historian]

Just getting started and will probably screw up several tubes. I just bought a 7-14 mini lathe. Are there any links I can use to learn how to thread the internal tube and endcap?
Also where to buy the dyes, dies or whatever?
I plan to pick everone's brain along the way if you don't mind
Thanks

Welcome, Nypto, to chip making.

In answer to your question I find, among many, the YouTube
by Tubalcain, a former machinist teacher, quite
enlightening:

<< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olC9xyHheDU >>

Once you have mastered the single point visit
Ray-Vin's << http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSzXNlQ97VI >>
to envy having a CNC machine to thread barrels. Inspirational from
an inspiring man who made stellar barrels.


Please: wear face shield! As old [ 60 years old, would you believe. ] Johnny Burns, old WW I machinist
warned a freshman floor cleaner in 1956 " A lathe or milling machine has no emotion, it will send chips
into you eyes or try to tear your hand off. Treat it like a grenade with the pin removed."

Many happy and safe years exploring metal sculpturing.

[ChimeraPrecision]

I tend to cut the internal thread first, you get a bit of spring in the boring tool and it seems less accurate, then when you cut the caps to fit the tube it all seems a bit more rigid

Some won't agree but I have done four tubes and six end caps (two more to go) today with no problems

Also given that in use suppressors are by nature dirty I tend to cut the threads a bit on the loose side, i do most of mine in light alloy and found if too tight they soon bind up.

Good luck

If your dimensions are correct and you cut your parts to these dimensions the thread fit should be as specified 1A, 2A, 3A ect. I cut 3A for all tube threads

[Enfield577]

I tend to cut the internal thread first, you get a bit of spring in the boring tool and it seems less accurate, then when you cut the caps to fit the tube it all seems a bit more rigid

Some won't agree but I have done four tubes and six end caps (two more to go) today with no problems

Also given that in use suppressors are by nature dirty I tend to cut the threads a bit on the loose side, i do most of mine in light alloy and found if too tight they soon bind up.

Good luck

If your dimensions are correct and you cut your parts to these dimensions the thread fit should be as specified 1A, 2A, 3A ect. I cut 3A for all tube threads

I know what you say and agree (I used to work in the Aircraft industry) but at home with limited equipment, the point I am trying to make is if you are making both halfs of the thread then you can cut one to suit the other. A lot of people starting out find it difficult to acheive certain specifications, if you make one fit the other it works just fine. I understand commercially you have more need to work to striktly defined standards for interchangability etc. but not for home build one offs.

Cheers

[twodollarbill]

I tend to cut the internal thread first, you get a bit of spring in the boring tool and it seems less accurate, then when you cut the caps to fit the tube it all seems a bit more rigid

I thread my tubes first and then cut my end caps too. I know they are cut to spec,
We can only have that matched pair....so you can say they are cut to fit.

Also given that in use suppressors are by nature dirty I tend to cut the threads a bit on the loose side, i do most of mine in light alloy and found if too tight they soon bind up.

You don't have to cut them loose......plan on using o-rings in your next design.
Use anti-seize on your threads to help with binding problems.

[Enfield577]

You don't have to cut them loose......plan on using o-rings in your next design.
Use anti-seize on your threads to help with binding problems.

I may try that - Thanks