Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
Thanks for all the great info on this website. I tried to read as much as I could before I asked question because I know I can't be the first person.
My goal is to make my first can for a DPMS LR308 style rifle with a 24" bull barrel. I haven't even bought the rifle yet, so I'm just trying to get a head start on everything.
Here is a pic of my first attempt at designing a can. I didn't have time to make a drawing with dimensions (it's 5:30 a.m.) but it's more or less modeled after Delta's 300 can. The outer tube is 1.75 OD x .065 x 10 inches. Blast baffle is .09 with all others .06. Unlike Delta's 300 can, I was hoping to machine the spacers into the 60 degree stepped cones and have one plug into the next. Not included in the drawing is the spacer in the blast chamber to retain the baffles. I've seen some cans with springs in this position... is there a reason more people don't use springs? I removed material in both end caps to save weight and rounded the end cap because I saw that one some other post... and the end cap will be welded on.
Right now all the baffles have the same aperture of .375. I plan on opening up the last one or two to ~.41
I don't think you need a bore that big. .350 to .360 should be enough if you keep your run-out low.Most symmetrical baffles do not induce bullet yaw.With the dimensions you have posted it should be a quiet can!
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
I hate to disagree but a thick bodied spring in a expansion chamber causes alot of useful turbulence it must be thinner than the chamber itself to work.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Sergeant wrote:What would be considered "Done Right"?
Steve
Done right is you must have support at both ends of the spring so it will not wonder and the spring must be made of the right material like a valve spring from a car engine it works just like a flash hider.You must keep in mind the spring pressure dose nothing so if temper is lost who cares.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Sergeant wrote:What would be considered "Done Right"?
Steve
Done right is you must have support at both ends of the spring so it will not wonder and the spring must be made of the right material like a valve spring from a car engine it works just like a flash hider.You must keep in mind the spring pressure dose nothing so if temper is lost who cares.
Again KISS.. Simple, solid and effective are they way to go. You can of course build anything you wish but remember your stuck with it. There are many very effective rifle suppressors built by many different manufactures and the designs are out there to learn from. Mall ninja in a can is a problem waiting to happen.
"If you carry a gun, people call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what in the hell do I have to be paranoid about?"
I would imagine that either way would WORK. But like he said, it should sit in grooves so that it doesn't wonder around while shooting. I would also imagine that if the spring were spaced off the wall .100 or so, then it would create some pretty crazy turbulence. But i'm no expert by any means.
Sergeant wrote:Do you want the spring to contact the inside of the tube, have a gap between the tube and the spring or does it even mater?
Steve
Its important that it sits away from the interior wall for maximum benefit.
I know springs seam cheesy to some but its a complex wave busting shape to a wave front.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
I've seen similar thing in suppressor for Slovenian submachine gun MGV -176 in 22 lr. Suppressor itself was just enough effective because it was way to short 'cause it was using just this spring type stuff.
So i've been messing with the CAM and reading about machining stainless and how much of a pain it can be, and it's got me thinking a lot about switching my material to aluminum. I could make the tube out of 2024 T3, 1.75 x 1/8" wall, could leave it full thickness the entire length or machine it down a little towards the business end. I could also make the baffles out of 7075-T651 with the blast baffle being 1/8" and the rest ~.06. From my guesstimations would be stronger than the half thinner stainless and even lighter with aluminum being almost 1/3 the weight of steel.
Your thoughts?
Also, I read somewhere that making multi caliber cans can be tricky on the Form 1... but it seems like thread adapters are the way around any headache. Are thread adapters completely separate from suppressors since they are multi-purpose?
Don't do it aluminum is not what you want.Stainless is not that hard to machine, it's all in the technique.I cut most of everything with HSS tooling using a acid brush for oil or a spray bottle full of cool tool.Pm me with as many questions you have on SS cutting or just post your questions.Stick with SS.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
I've just heard bad stories about work hardening and breaking tools and then lots of misleading info on feeds and speeds for HSS and carbide. My understanding is that most work hardening is from dwelling, dull tools, or too thin of a cut. From what I could gather, using HSS would constitute surface speeds of anywhere from 30-80 sfpm with chip loads from .001-.005. Using carbide, 100-300 sfpm with similar chip loads. I've had good luck with Aluminum, even 7075. I suppose the best way is to just buy some and try it, but I'd rather not break any more carbide tools then I have to figuring out a good method. BTW, i'll be using a Tormach 1100 which is good for about 1.5 HP.
joemac wrote:I've just heard bad stories about work hardening and breaking tools and then lots of misleading info on feeds and speeds for HSS and carbide. My understanding is that most work hardening is from dwelling, dull tools, or too thin of a cut. From what I could gather, using HSS would constitute surface speeds of anywhere from 30-80 sfpm with chip loads from .001-.005. Using carbide, 100-300 sfpm with similar chip loads. I've had good luck with Aluminum, even 7075. I suppose the best way is to just buy some and try it, but I'd rather not break any more carbide tools then I have to figuring out a good method. BTW, i'll be using a Tormach 1100 which is good for about 1.5 HP.
Aluminum is not a safe or durable material at rifle pressures.Only some types of SS can work harden like inconel.I take .040 cuts all day with HSS bits on my Rockwell 3/4 horse lathe in 316 and have zero problems.Knowledge will allow you to cut any material with ease.You are not in a race your 1.5 Tormach is more than enough.
Please tell us more about your machine you are the first person I know that has one.I would think that with the full package you would have abilities most of us would envy.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
joemac wrote:I've just heard bad stories about work hardening and breaking tools and then lots of misleading info on feeds and speeds for HSS and carbide. My understanding is that most work hardening is from dwelling, dull tools, or too thin of a cut. From what I could gather, using HSS would constitute surface speeds of anywhere from 30-80 sfpm with chip loads from .001-.005. Using carbide, 100-300 sfpm with similar chip loads. I've had good luck with Aluminum, even 7075. I suppose the best way is to just buy some and try it, but I'd rather not break any more carbide tools then I have to figuring out a good method. BTW, i'll be using a Tormach 1100 which is good for about 1.5 HP.
Aluminum is not a safe or durable material at rifle pressures.Only some types of SS can work harden like inconel.I take .040 cuts all day with HSS bits on my Rockwell 3/4 horse lathe in 316 and have zero problems.Knowledge will allow you to cut any material with ease.You are not in a race your 1.5 Tormach is more than enough.
Please tell us more about your machine you are the first person I know that has one.I would think that with the full package you would have abilities most of us would envy.
The Tormach is a capable machine but lacks rigidity and repeatable accuracy. We already dealt with that problem. Not fun to say the least.
Tig Weld it all together using a jig
Use a good thick blast baffle
the design you have is fine, but simpler design can be used that does not require so much machine time.
Springs? really?
May want to add some gas bleed holes on the edges of the baffles to allow the gas to flow through instead of building up. This will also give less back pressure and POI shift.
