Critique my 22LR design Updated 7-25-2012

[KrazyL]

Machine it right from the get go and you won't need to take up tolerances with a spring.

You should NEVER use a spring inside a silencer.

Are you referring to the use of springs to hold baffles in place? Don't boosted cans require a spring for the booster? Sorry for my misunderstanding.

[Bendersquint]

Machine it right from the get go and you won't need to take up tolerances with a spring.

You should NEVER use a spring inside a silencer.

Are you referring to the use of springs to hold baffles in place? Don't boosted cans require a spring for the booster? Sorry for my misunderstanding.

Yes I am referring to springs that interact with the baffles.

Not the springs in booster modules.

[palladium]

Machine it right from the get go and you won't need to take up tolerances with a spring.

You should NEVER use a spring inside a silencer.

Machine 6 or 7 baffels with +/- 0.000 tolérances is very difficult or impossible. I know that aac, Gemtech, SWR and several other does not use a spring washer in the silencer. I use a spring washer in my silent because it allows me some latitude for the tolérences and also because the aluminium and the stainless dont have the same thermal expension and it reduces the stress on materials. Here are the reasons for which I use a spring washer in my silencer. I have over than 4k bullet shoot thru my 9mm silencer and more in my .22 silencer and I dont have any problem. however, should put the spring washer after the end cap or after the recoil booster for not having a problem.

Instead of saying do not use spring washer in silencer, why you no explain why you should never use a spring washer in the silencer...



Here is a picture of my .22 end cap with a spring washer.



Here is 2 picture of my 9mm recoil boster with a spring washer.

[Historian]

Palladium, nicely done.

Regarding your correct observation " ...Machine 6 or 7 baffels with +/- 0.000 tolérances
is very difficult or impossible..." from reports on such designs it was reported
that the difficulty in maintaining the baffle tolerances was mitigated
by the spacers whose width are, say at least four times the width of the baffle thickness
and sliced from tubing whose O.D. is the I.D of the suppressor tubing.

Anti-seize was applied to the suppressor tube in addition.

Add polishing the suppressor tube and the inner sleeve/separator tube
more than compensated for any variations.

In this context, when I was repainting the head stock of a small lathe that I have
been restoring, using an old grill as a paint box, I wondered if anyone had used
Rust-Oleum black grill paint on aluminum baffles when anodizing was not feasible.
The directions state that it can withstand sustained temperatures of 1,000 degrees.

Then could damage from soaking the baffles in what otherwise be caustic cleaning solutions be reduced?

[Enfield577]

Just a quick word on this tollerance issue with the baffles, over here most of the cans are made where the end cap just does not quite screw down, with say a 0.020" gap. This then compresses the baffles and makes sure it is all tight.

You can't really see too well from the photo, but I think you will get the idea

[wolf]

Another possibility is to make a threaded ring that fits inside at the front end , that ring you can tighten to take away any play ,, then the endcap isnt holding anything

that way some of the top dogs have done it

[Enfield577]

Another possibility is to make a threaded ring that fits inside at the front end , that ring you can tighten to take away any play ,, then the endcap isnt holding anything

that way some of the top dogs have done it

Nice idea

[wolf]

The only thing i can take credit for ,,is,, keeping my eyes open , and remembering

from here

http://www.silencertests.com/silencer-f ... 10&t=85037

[MCKNBRD]

Looking at the drawings, it looks like you're having the ports/scallops 180* out from each other. Has anyone played around with changing that orientation? Will it have any effect on performance with scalloped Ks?

Just wondering, as it would be fairly easy to do while you're making them, but damn near impossible to do as a later add-on.

thx-
Byrdman

[twodollarbill]

Another possibility is to make a threaded ring that fits inside at the front end , that ring you can tighten to take away any play ,, then the endcap isnt holding anything

that way some of the top dogs have done it

In the M10 Sonic's type suppressor, they called it an "escapulator". Without it, the guts just rattled around.

[Enfield577]

Another possibility is to make a threaded ring that fits inside at the front end , that ring you can tighten to take away any play ,, then the endcap isnt holding anything

that way some of the top dogs have done it

In the M10 Sonic's type suppressor, they called it an "escapulator". Without it, the guts just rattled around.

Hey maybe I need an escapulator,as sometimes my guts rattle around

[Bendersquint]

Looking at the drawings, it looks like you're having the ports/scallops 180* out from each other. Has anyone played around with changing that orientation? Will it have any effect on performance with scalloped Ks?

Just wondering, as it would be fairly easy to do while you're making them, but damn near impossible to do as a later add-on.

thx-
Byrdman

Yes it can change the performance by changing the orientation. Some for the good some for the bad.

[MCKNBRD]

Looking at the drawings, it looks like you're having the ports/scallops 180* out from each other. Has anyone played around with changing that orientation? Will it have any effect on performance with scalloped Ks?

Just wondering, as it would be fairly easy to do while you're making them, but damn near impossible to do as a later add-on.

thx-
Byrdman

Yes it can change the performance by changing the orientation. Some for the good some for the bad.

Hmmmm...methinks you are being coy with your response...180* difference? 90* difference? Less? I need to do a little sketching and thinking...

Heck, as close as we are, Bender...I need to swing by SRI and check ya'll out.

Byrdman

[daviscustom]

As long as the baffles are locked in place when you put the can together, you could make the baffles with a little extra meat on the ends , but no notches to set the orientation......then experiment with baffle orientation just by paying attention as you assemble the can. Once you decide which way works the best....then cut your notches. You would have to have a way to take up the slack in your stack after you mill the notches, or come up with a way to orient the parts that won't shorten the baffles.....like an alignment pin or something.

[Bendersquint]

As long as the baffles are locked in place when you put the can together, you could make the baffles with a little extra meat on the ends , but no notches to set the orientation......then experiment with baffle orientation just by paying attention as you assemble the can. Once you decide which way works the best....then cut your notches. You would have to have a way to take up the slack in your stack after you mill the notches, or come up with a way to orient the parts that won't shorten the baffles.....like an alignment pin or something.

He's talking about the location of the dater hole not the rotational orientation. There is very little performance variances in the rotational orientation until you get in the top performers like the TiRant.

[daviscustom]

My bad, I misunderstood what you were talking about.


You just need to find a helpful soul that knows how to TIG weld....then you will need to have a way to meter it since you won't be able to do side by side comparisons.....that will be the kicker unless you want to do 2 form 1 can's the same design.

[sst4270]

I've been dealing with some family matters and haven't had a chance to check online for the last several days. Anyways, thanks for the continued feeback. It has been very helpful.

I've updated the drawing again. See original post.

Keep 'em coming. By the time my F1 arrives and I can begin machining I expect this suppressor is going to be quite the winner.

Regards,

SST

[daviscustom]

I know SRM thinks you could get away with one less baffle.....but you are already under 6" so I would think that is pushing it a little. I would love to have the luxury of trying it that way, but if it didn't work very well it would suck.

On a form 1 I tend to want to err on the side of caution......in that line of thinking, what about bumping up your tube OD to 1 1/8" and then scaling everything up to fill it? That very slight increase will gain you enough internal volume that I think it is worth considering.....should only help your performance, and you won't likely ever notice the difference in size in terms of handling and use. My monocore can is that size and I have no trouble using the factory sights on my MK II.

A friend on the forum gave me that advice when I was designing mine, and though I have no way to know how much it helped, I know I have never had a reason to wish I had done it any smaller.

[sst4270]

I haven't removed a baffle (Still 7 baffles). I only removed the spacer I originally had between the rear endcap and the blast baffle.
Also I can't go larger than 1" because it has to fit inside the Tacsol SB-X flash shroud.
The F1 length went out listed as 6.5". So I have room to add a baffle if needed.

Thanks.

[daviscustom]

Yes I saw you haven't changed the number of baffles.....guess I didn't come off as clear as it sounded to me when I was typing it.

I think everything looks good in your last revision......just thought taking out another baffle as SRM suggested would be pushing your luck.....plus it would be too short on your TS barrel.

Too bad you are restricted on your OD.

The extra baffle may not make a lot of difference but it wouldn't hurt anything for sure.....just add a little length.

[Bendersquint]

I thought a 1.125" can would fit inside the TacSol barrel? Hmpph.

[sst4270]

Just did a quick measurement of the ID on the tacsol with a ruler. It's right around 1.125, maybe a little under. So I suppose I could go slightly larger on the OD...

[SRM]

So go 1 1/16.