Building a 30-.06 suppressor

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delta9mda
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by delta9mda »

ditch the wave washers.
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SilencerNewb
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by SilencerNewb »

No wave washers, because you don't want the stack to move? Or no wave washers because you don't need the stack to be in compression?

Or because it's just not necessary to have anything else but the baffles/spacers?

I've seen some patents and pics of suppressors with springs in them, but maybe they used them for a different reason?
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Bendersquint
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by Bendersquint »

delta9mda wrote:ditch the wave washers.
I missed that part.

No springs should ever be in can, boosters is fine but not in the stack.

There are several manufacturers that do that and have cans that are damaged because of it.

If you do it right you don't need washers/springs to provide tension on your stack. Your endcaps are just fine, take 10 minutes extra and fit the endcap to your silencer.

There is also no need to be cleaning it every 10 rounds, thats way beyond OCD. More than likely your can will sound better dirty than it will clean. Just clean the mount and forget about the insides.
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Bendersquint
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by Bendersquint »

SilencerNewb wrote:No wave washers, because you don't want the stack to move? Or no wave washers because you don't need the stack to be in compression?

Or because it's just not necessary to have anything else but the baffles/spacers?

I've seen some patents and pics of suppressors with springs in them, but maybe they used them for a different reason?
The stack shouldn't move, if it moves you are only going to jackhammer your endcap, one of 2 things will happen, it will shear the threads off the endcap or the tube. Anyone up for russian roulette with your investment?

There is no need for springs inside there, its generally a sign of sloppy tolerances or speeding through without taking the time to fit the part.

Post some pics and patent links so we can see what you are referring to.
SilencerNewb
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by SilencerNewb »

I'll have to go through again and find pics.

I know the Gem-tech Tundra has a spring in it, and I seem to recall seeing some teardown pics of other manufacturers that had them as well.

The patent I was thinking of didn't use a spring, though I do recall seeing one at some point in my historical searching. I'll keep an eye out.
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Bendersquint
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by Bendersquint »

SilencerNewb wrote:I'll have to go through again and find pics.

I know the Gem-tech Tundra has a spring in it, and I seem to recall seeing some teardown pics of other manufacturers that had them as well.

The patent I was thinking of didn't use a spring, though I do recall seeing one at some point in my historical searching. I'll keep an eye out.
Yes, the GemTech Tundra and Multimount both have springs in them and the last baffle is always damaged because of it, most have spring mirror marks all over the base of the baffle showing the stack was moving during the firing process.

Most of the customers that have had us jailbreak their MM or Tundra have all said they noted better accuracy after, probably has alot to do with the stack retaining its position instead of bouncing around.
SilencerNewb
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by SilencerNewb »

Has anyone tried using InVar as a potential baffle material?

And has anyone done comparisons between different cone angles? I found a 1" 90* counterbore in my tool box.

I need to sit down and think about overall dimensions. A 2" OD can seems excessive, though I suppose having more internal volume can't really hurt, can it? I have some other 304 tubing than the 2"OD/1.75"ID, so I might see about dropping the size.
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Bendersquint
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Re: Building a 30-.06 suppressor

Post by Bendersquint »

SilencerNewb wrote:Has anyone tried using InVar as a potential baffle material?

And has anyone done comparisons between different cone angles? I found a 1" 90* counterbore in my tool box.

I need to sit down and think about overall dimensions. A 2" OD can seems excessive, though I suppose having more internal volume can't really hurt, can it? I have some other 304 tubing than the 2"OD/1.75"ID, so I might see about dropping the size.
Not familiar with InVar, what is it?

Yes there has been plenty of testing with cone angles. As it has been said many many times before there is a reason the manufacturers use 60 degree cones, and its not because they have the countersink in the tool box on design day.

You will hit a point of diminishing returns with can size. The larger the can the heavier it will be and that large WILL be heavy. Not to mention that wall thickness is way too thick.
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