its pretty face today!!!!
.22lr, 6 1/4" oal.
Any suggestions. I`m open to any ideas. What you fellers got?
I`m thinkin a spiked OD and threadless tube, stainless or titaniun. NO Aluminium!
f1 Stamp showed
- Capt. Link.
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 2829
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:05 pm
- Location: USA.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I like Ti its very forgiving on 22 pressures and is uber lite.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
- Shift1
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:12 pm
- Location: Lurking in the shadows of the Rocky Mountains
Re: f1 Stamp showed
What was your time frame for stamp? What design were you thinking of using?SRM wrote:its pretty face today!!!!
.22lr, 6 1/4" oal.
Any suggestions. I`m open to any ideas. What you fellers got?
I`m thinkin a spiked OD and threadless tube, stainless or titaniun. NO Aluminium!
"The Constitution shall never be construed to prevent the people of the United States who are peaceable citizens from keeping their own arms."- Samuel Adams
"LP"
"LP"
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I kinda lost track but it was right at six months. Two more weeks and should have another for a sbr 10/22. I sent them at the end of October.
As far as baffles, I`m probably just go with k`s and a knurled tube.
As far as baffles, I`m probably just go with k`s and a knurled tube.
-
- Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 8:45 am
Re: f1 Stamp showed
What is a Spiked OD?
Also, how do you create a threadless tube? (I can think of a monocore...but that's about it)
Thanks!
Also, how do you create a threadless tube? (I can think of a monocore...but that's about it)
Thanks!
Re: f1 Stamp showed
A spiked od would be a single point cut, realy large knurl. And heavy but could be cool.slickster81 wrote:What is a Spiked OD?
Also, how do you create a threadless tube? (I can think of a monocore...but that's about it)
Thanks!
The threadless tubes are usually done with monos.
-
- Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 8:45 am
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Thanks....now I know!
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Not done yet. 12 0z. of 304 SS. What ya think? About thirty hours so far.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I finally have my own pig!
- Capt. Link.
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 2829
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:05 pm
- Location: USA.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
It looks great I hope you will have lot's of photo's to post when your done.
Don't forget to post on Wicked's completed builds
Don't forget to post on Wicked's completed builds
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I wish I would have taken more pics cause the tube was made from solid. Sorry but when I start makin somethin, there is no time for a pic.
I will take more as this is for us all, rite?!
Thanks Capt.!
I will take more as this is for us all, rite?!
Thanks Capt.!
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Nice work SRM I know what you mean about the pics, once I get rolling I hate to stop. Since I'm old it takes a lot just to get started God forbid I stop.
Joe
Joe
It's truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <---Mine..
Semper Fi
Semper Fi
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I profiled the inside of the endcap tonight and was interupted three times. Two hours later.epicdoom wrote:Nice work SRM I know what you mean about the pics, once I get rolling I hate to stop. Since I'm old it takes a lot just to get started God forbid I stop.
Joe
No pics.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Down to 10.5 oz !!!
Last baffle doesn`t seem to be doin much. It`s interesting to see the gas flow in there.
These pics were taken after about 70 rounds of remington subs. They do spark out the ejection port.
All ports were plunge cut with 3/16 ball mill. face of baffle was cut with a 1/4" profile insert.
It does have an interesting sound. Hard to describe.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
An interesting side note is it has no frp and a rather large blast chamber, go figure.?
- Shift1
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:12 pm
- Location: Lurking in the shadows of the Rocky Mountains
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Any chance of a vid?SRM wrote:An interesting side note is it has no frp and a rather large blast chamber, go figure.?
"The Constitution shall never be construed to prevent the people of the United States who are peaceable citizens from keeping their own arms."- Samuel Adams
"LP"
"LP"
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I only have an I phone.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
How important is the dater hole? And for the port in the cone, I wonder if I made a bevel from the outside, if it would make it more aggresive?
As far as the frp, I may just not be hearing it. Pretty sure I`m half deaf.
As far as the frp, I may just not be hearing it. Pretty sure I`m half deaf.
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Looks great! Would you mind posting basic dimensions of your baffles?
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Sure can. I`ll do it tonight.alemonkey wrote:Looks great! Would you mind posting basic dimensions of your baffles?
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Basic dimentions of baffles in inch ;
OAL: .805
Dia.: .936
Bore: .259
Dia at skirt waist: .445
Rim thickness: .135
12 degree angle front of face.
Skirt thickness: .040
Face scoop cut: 3/16 dia.
Skirt cut: 1/4 dia.
The scoop cuts were plunge cut, center of tool at .02" outside the edge of the bore hole. Cut deep as possible.
The nose of the baffle protrudes .125" past the rim. Diameter of the nose is 300"
The rear face was cut with a 1/4 dia profile insert to a depth of .1" leaving a rim face of .03" wide.
Dater hole has not been drilled yet. And I agree with Lavared that each baffle needs to be tuned to its place in the stack.
The baffles could be made stronger by shortening the cone thereby increasing the diameter of the waist. Should be stronger and shortening the OAL of the stack.
OAL: .805
Dia.: .936
Bore: .259
Dia at skirt waist: .445
Rim thickness: .135
12 degree angle front of face.
Skirt thickness: .040
Face scoop cut: 3/16 dia.
Skirt cut: 1/4 dia.
The scoop cuts were plunge cut, center of tool at .02" outside the edge of the bore hole. Cut deep as possible.
The nose of the baffle protrudes .125" past the rim. Diameter of the nose is 300"
The rear face was cut with a 1/4 dia profile insert to a depth of .1" leaving a rim face of .03" wide.
Dater hole has not been drilled yet. And I agree with Lavared that each baffle needs to be tuned to its place in the stack.
The baffles could be made stronger by shortening the cone thereby increasing the diameter of the waist. Should be stronger and shortening the OAL of the stack.
- Enfield577
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 805
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:29 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Re: f1 Stamp showed
Excellent work - well done - I guess you have CNC at your disposal ?
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
Re: f1 Stamp showed
No sir. All by hand and no two are the same.
eta; the lathe used was a 1982 Summit 19-4x120. Three jaw chuck. Wish it had a dro.
eta; the lathe used was a 1982 Summit 19-4x120. Three jaw chuck. Wish it had a dro.
- Enfield577
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 805
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:29 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Re: f1 Stamp showed
All by hand, the same as meSRM wrote:No sir. All by hand and no two are the same.
eta; the lathe used was a 1982 Summit 19-4x120. Three jaw chuck. Wish it had a dro.
I particularly like the lightening work in the end cap, i guess you used a rotary table and sunk a milling cutter in ?
Always interested to see how others with the same kit as me (no CNC) get on
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
Re: f1 Stamp showed
I used a 3/8 ball mill on the mount down to the muzzle. A 5/32 mill to open it up down to the flange I guess. could go a little deeper but want to make sure I don`t have to drill from the outside for a spanner. Right now I`m using a friction wrench. And yes to the rotary head.
I work with a former cnc opperater and he is one smart feller but I can smoke anyone on a manual lathe. Funny thing is these baffles took on average an hour each. The last one was thirty min. Thank you fer your comments!
I work with a former cnc opperater and he is one smart feller but I can smoke anyone on a manual lathe. Funny thing is these baffles took on average an hour each. The last one was thirty min. Thank you fer your comments!