Removing the muzzle brake from a CETME (Century Blast Enhancer)

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Fulliautomatix
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Removing the muzzle brake from a CETME (Century Blast Enhancer)

Post by Fulliautomatix »

Decided to take the CETME muzzle brake off, affectionately known by many as the Century Blast Enhancer, to allow mounting of other muzzle devices ;) . These muzzle brakes were added for import purposes, and are threaded on the rifle barrel, pinned and welded over.

There is one pin keeping the brake from unthreading from the barrel (along with some paint & corrosion). The pin is located on the underside of the brake, at the 6 o'clock position, approximately 0.25" from the back of the muzzle.

After CAI put in the pin in, they welded it, ground it smooth and painted over it. This makes it pretty much impossible to see exactly where the pin is without some exploring. I started with a 10" flat bastard file on the underside of the brake to find the pin. I found it after a few minutes of filing. It also became evident that I found it because the brake material itself is removed very easily with a new file, but when you hit the weld you notice that the material isn't being removed as quickly (ie: hard)
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Here you can see that it is about 0.25" up from the rear of the brake.
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I started working at the weld from the side a bit to see if I could make any headway.
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Once it became obvious where the pin was, I took a dremel with metal cutting disc and started working on the weld, and after a minute or two I could see that the pin was loose. I was able to pull it out of the hole with a magnet.
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Then I went to work on the muzzle with the dremel cutting wheel. 1st cut was across the face of the muzzle, connecting the 12 & 6 o'clock ports with the bore hole. 2nd cut was connecting the port holes along the bottom, and then make cuts connecting the port holes across the top. I also started digging a 'trench' along the base of the brake where the body of the brake threads to the muzzle. You need to take your time doing this to make sure you don't start grinding the barrel or threads.
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Once all those cuts were made I tried strong arming it off with a big wrench, and a screw driver but it wouldn't budge. I hit it with a torch, and still no go. I was able to spread the split muzzle a bit with a screwdriver to the point where I was able to get a steel wedge in (log splitting wedge actually). Gave it a few raps and the brake broke in half.

I took some additional photos showing the dimensions of the brake, what is threaded, and what isn't. Hopefully it will help others identify where to start being careful with your grinding.
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The unthreaded portion is approximately the first 0.50" of the back end of the brake, followed by approximately 0.40" of threads. The barrel is threaded M15x1 RH.

I recommend wrapping your barrel with a couple layers of painters/masking tape to get a little insurance in case you go crazy with the file/dremel like I did. :roll:
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ericlw
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Re: Removing the muzzle brake from a CETME (Century Blast Enhancer)

Post by ericlw »

Their is nothing wrong with cutting it off how you did. People who tell you otherwise are just wimps. yes you have to go slow so you don't cut into the threads. I had a flash hider that wouldn't come off for any reason. I split it down the side and it was off in 10 minutes.I had all sorts of people telling me thats not how you should do it and whatever. My father cuts bearings off on cars all the time that won't come off any other way easily. As he says if a acetylene torch won't work cut it off with a grinder.
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Fulliautomatix
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Re: Removing the muzzle brake from a CETME (Century Blast Enhancer)

Post by Fulliautomatix »

I'm all about trying to get things done 'the right way' and I tried, believe me. But when an appropriate amount of penetrating oil and torque doesn't get the job done, you need to try other options. There's also the fact that this firearm has a sheet metal receiver, and I didn't want to 'gorilla arm' this thing and twist/bend the receiver.
Speak softly, and carry a big stick.
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