Suppressed 10/22 factory mag MRBF

Talk about them here.

Moderators: mpallett, bakerjw

Post Reply
User avatar
finn
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 844
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:50 am

Suppressed 10/22 factory mag MRBF

Post by finn » Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:56 pm

I find shooting suppressed gunks up the factory mags to 100% failure rate within ~300 rounds. Is this normal? Is there a way to slow this down or should i just buy more mags? I currently use a little bit of hoppes 9 after cleaning them.

User avatar
smcharchan
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 2268
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:06 am
Location: VA

Post by smcharchan » Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:25 am

The factory mags are notoriously reliable if kept clean. They can be fully disassembled for cleaning, which should restore proper function.

As far as slowing down the round count before they need service I recommend trying different ammo.

If you are unwilling to change to a cleaner ammo extra mags may be the solution to ensure you can enjoy a malfunction-free high-round-count range session.

User avatar
finn
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 844
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:50 am

Post by finn » Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:13 am

I absolutely clean them, but it is so easy to shoot $10 worth of ammo through one mag, and frustrating to have it die at the range.
I'll try some more scientific ammo testing next time i go. There was a mix of rem golden bullet value pack, rem subsonic, and fed 750 value pack.

User avatar
chingon
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 488
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:34 pm

Post by chingon » Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:11 pm

CCI is cleaner
I always tell the truth, even when I lie

User avatar
finn
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 844
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:50 am

Post by finn » Sun Jan 24, 2010 2:42 pm

Against ruger's recommendation and popular opinion i started dumping hoppes in my mags before i initially load them out of frustration. It is working so far. They at least make it through one range session. The sludge that comes out of them when i clean them afterwards is ridiculous. I would think a 12" barrel would run cleaner than standard length barrels. Just another reason why bolt actions are better. :wink:

User avatar
AgentAdam
Senior Silent Operator
Posts: 108
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:29 pm

Post by AgentAdam » Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:07 pm

I would try a dry lube like rem dry-lube or graphite powder.

You also might want to back off the screw. If its to tight it will bind the rotor.

User avatar
finn
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 844
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:50 am

Post by finn » Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:49 pm

Interesting thought. I had considered over-tightening the spring.
AgentAdam wrote:If it's too tight it will bind the rotor.

User avatar
AgentAdam
Senior Silent Operator
Posts: 108
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:29 pm

Post by AgentAdam » Mon Jan 25, 2010 6:15 pm

There are better lubes out there for plastic on plastic. Its the rotor binding with the housing. I'm no expert but plastics call for something like silicon,lithium,teflon,graphite,ect.

I would stay away form a liquid or grease though and the housing plate screw only needs to be finger tight and then maby even 1/4 turn loose.

User avatar
redtazdog
Elite Member
Posts: 2432
Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:30 am
Contact:

Post by redtazdog » Mon Jan 25, 2010 9:35 pm

I use dryphite because it wont turn to mud like wet lubes.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=960498

Post Reply