My "new" Ruger MkII avec Pac Lite.

[GTFord1]

I'm putting a Volquartsen trigger, sear, and extractor in it this weekend. Should I have bought a Clark hammer bushing for it, too, or is that mostly MkIII people who need those? I love this gun, though. Looks and feels great. I can't believe there are people who say MkIIs/IIIs are "too light" with the Pac Lite. Now I just need that silencer that I'm waiting none too patiently for.

[psp7]

When I put together my MK2 I ordered the Volquartsen accurizing kit which included the match bushing. So I can only assume it does make a difference and the whole kit was $75 and they do advise it for a better trigger pull. I got my frame lower from Volquartsen too as it was a bare, so I never got the factory supplied bushing but I suspect there is a difference. Nice pistol looking pistol

[Blaubart]

I can't believe there are people who say MkIIs/IIIs are "too light" with the Pac Lite.

A 22/45 (plastic frame) with a Pac-Lite is very light. Some people think they're too light, and I agree to a certain extent. OTOH, they're great for backpacking.

[solitary.phoenix]

Man that is a slick gun. How much did the whole thing set you back for?

How long is it?

[GTFord1]

I bought the gun for $300 (I've seen them as low as $225 locally, but I missed out on them.)

I paid $265+ $12 shipping for the 4.5" Pac Lite from "Outside Dog" who is an FFL who deals on Gunbroker. They actually had a better price than Paul Zint did for the same piece. They're based out of Georgia, and I live in Florida. I got it the next day at my FFL. They shipped the same day I bought it, great service.

I paid $35 for the rail. (Red's Trading Post I think was the name? on E-Bay.)

So, for all that, I've got $612 in it. Not counting the Volquartsen parts I bought for it, which was like $70. Stuff adds up fast, doesn't it? Heh.

Now, considering the Stainless Sparrow I'm waiting to get in from the dealer:

I paid $400 for it, plus $20 shipping. Add the $200 tax stamp on top of that. Add the ~$75 to $100 my dealer will charge for dealing with the transfer, and you've got, um...

$1382, if I added everything correctly, once my suppressor gets here?

To be honest, I would considered buying one of those Ruger factory 22/45's with the upper and lower rails, had they been on Gunbroker a couple of weeks ago when I was in a buying frenzy. I know my concerns are probably unfounded, but I do wonder about the longevity of this Pac Lite upper. Aluminum on the steel frame does worry me a bit. I'm sure it'll be fine, though.

[GTFord1]

And for some reason, after we put the Volquartsen parts in, the bolt isn't always going fully back in. It acts like it's hanging on something.

I.E., you pull the bolt back a few times, it'll go in, go in, go in, then maybe the fifth time, pull it back again, and it'll stick out a little bit and not quite go in. Then, if you tap it a little bit, it'll finish going in.

Anyone have an idea on this? I'm not sure if we did something inside incorrectly, or what. I can't imagine any of that having an effect on pulling the bolt back, but I certainly don't know anything about the mechanics of these things. Could putting the sear / hammer / trigger back in somehow incorrectly do this? I can't see how they'd be in wrong, because the gun does function. It fires fine, the trigger works, etcetera.

[Wahnsinn]

Did you re-assemble correctly? I had an issue a few weeks ago when I didn't hold the gun correctly while putting the mainspring housing back in (you know how you have to hold it pointing up, pointing down, whatever, whatever). So I missed a step. Bolt wouldn't go back all the way, when it did (with force) it wouldn't close by itself.

I'd try that first, take it back apart, then go through step by step (make sure you skip to the right step for the 22/45).

If not...dunno

[yamatitan]

Did you re-assemble correctly? I had an issue a few weeks ago when I didn't hold the gun correctly while putting the mainspring housing back in (you know how you have to hold it pointing up, pointing down, whatever, whatever). So I missed a step. Bolt wouldn't go back all the way, when it did (with force) it wouldn't close by itself.

I'd try that first, take it back apart, then go through step by step (make sure you skip to the right step for the 22/45).

If not...dunno

I dont think thats it because we you do that the trigger doesnt function right it goes into a limp mode. At least if im remembering correctly, I usually have this problem every time I assembly and have to remember what way to make the dingle berry go. lol

[GTFord1]

Did you re-assemble correctly? I had an issue a few weeks ago when I didn't hold the gun correctly while putting the mainspring housing back in (you know how you have to hold it pointing up, pointing down, whatever, whatever). So I missed a step. Bolt wouldn't go back all the way, when it did (with force) it wouldn't close by itself.

I'd try that first, take it back apart, then go through step by step (make sure you skip to the right step for the 22/45).

If not...dunno

No, it's not because of the upper + lower + bolt assembly. That either works or it doesn't. The bolt goes back all the way, and closes most of the time. It wouldn't be working at all if I hadn't assembled it correctly.

[Hush]

Check for burrs? Is the extractor seating in its cut out in the receiver?
Sometimes its the littlest thing you know?

[solitary.phoenix]

To be honest, I would considered buying one of those Ruger factory 22/45's with the upper and lower rails, had they been on Gunbroker a couple of weeks ago when I was in a buying frenzy. I know my concerns are probably unfounded, but I do wonder about the longevity of this Pac Lite upper. Aluminum on the steel frame does worry me a bit. I'm sure it'll be fine, though.

I've always wanted a "hollywood quiet" compact pistol setup.

A suppressed 9mm is comparatively loud and HUGE...the tip-heavy weight of my Trident+Beretta is ungainly and it's excessive length leads you around corners. It makes you look super cool to your friends and turns on all of the little chicks out there, but I would never ever use it in any kind of engagement against armed enemies. The suppressor weight makes aiming a successive shot to a secondary/tertiary target very f'ing slow and dangerous. A suppressed .22 at least has some merit. I like the lightning speed of a lighter, more agile gun even if I am limited to head/neck/throat shots due it's caliber and terminal ballistic limitations. There aren't many handgun rounds that like body armor. A platform like this is certainly a "niche" tool, but in all honesty the .22's ballistics didn't seem to bother Mordechai Rachamim. Centerfire unsuppressed for immediate defensive use, rimfire silenced for the other oddball specialized applications.

The pac-lite, even if it doesn't have durable wear characteristics accomplishes all of the above on a nice accurate platform. Maybe you could hunt down one of those polymer 22/45 frames.

Either way, I'm impressed with your setup. Looks clean, quick and sexy.

[psp7]

$75-100 for a dealer to do a simple 5 minute paperwork task . I just dont get why people think its so great to buy their "major" discounted silencer from an out of state dealer to only turn around and piss away the savings on some opportunistic dealer to transfer:?: I say buy local and patronize the dealers closer to ya and skip the Form 3, even if they charge ya full retail. Much faster too. To each his own, I guess. BTW, congrats on the Sparrow!

[GTFord1]

Check for burrs? Is the extractor seating in its cut out in the receiver?
Sometimes its the littlest thing you know?

That's what someone on Rimfirecentral said last night. I'll check that tonight.

[GTFord1]

$75-100 for a dealer to do a simple 5 minute paperwork task . I just dont get why people think its so great to buy their "major" discounted silencer from an out of state dealer to only turn around and piss away the savings on some opportunistic dealer to transfer:?: I say buy local and patronize the dealers closer to ya and skip the Form 3, even if they charge ya full retail. Much faster too. To each his own, I guess. BTW, congrats on the Sparrow!

Well, those are some good points. No one around had it in stock, though...I don't even think there was a Silencerco dealer anywhere near me, at least that I could find on the internet. One in Miami? or something hours and hours away from me was selling them for $550 or something, so I'm still saving by ordering out of state. To add to that, several of the dealers I looked at had a stiff fee even if you bought one of their own suppressors. It can be a lot more than five minutes of paperwork, depending (ask GoingQuiet, I believe, with some nightmare stories.)

For "around $100," (their words) the dealer I'm using here in Central Florida walks you through all the paperwork, helps you with whatever, and makes sure you get everything done correctly. I don't think that's too outrageous for a NFA transfer.

[GTFord1]

To be honest, I would considered buying one of those Ruger factory 22/45's with the upper and lower rails, had they been on Gunbroker a couple of weeks ago when I was in a buying frenzy. I know my concerns are probably unfounded, but I do wonder about the longevity of this Pac Lite upper. Aluminum on the steel frame does worry me a bit. I'm sure it'll be fine, though.

I've always wanted a "hollywood quiet" compact pistol setup.

A suppressed 9mm is comparatively loud and HUGE...the tip-heavy weight of my Trident+Beretta is ungainly and it's excessive length leads you around corners. It makes you look super cool to your friends and turns on all of the little chicks out there, but I would never ever use it in any kind of engagement against armed enemies. The suppressor weight makes aiming a successive shot to a secondary/tertiary target very f'ing slow and dangerous. A suppressed .22 at least has some merit. I like the lightning speed of a lighter, more agile gun even if I am limited to head/neck/throat shots due it's caliber and terminal ballistic limitations. There aren't many handgun rounds that like body armor. A platform like this is certainly a "niche" tool, but in all honesty the .22's ballistics didn't seem to bother Mordechai Rachamim. Centerfire unsuppressed for immediate defensive use, rimfire silenced for the other oddball specialized applications.

The pac-lite, even if it doesn't have durable wear characteristics accomplishes all of the above on a nice accurate platform. Maybe you could hunt down one of those polymer 22/45 frames.

Either way, I'm impressed with your setup. Looks clean, quick and sexy.

Thanks. Yeah, I wanted a .22 for the same reasons. Near to true "Hollywood quiet" and cheap to shoot.

I have no interest in a 22/45 frame, per se. I wanted a metal one. I just would have considered buying one of the factory threaded ones for the simplicity and price. If they had been selling regular steel ones factory threaded, I would have bought one of those.

[solitary.phoenix]

To be honest, I would considered buying one of those Ruger factory 22/45's with the upper and lower rails, had they been on Gunbroker a couple of weeks ago when I was in a buying frenzy. I know my concerns are probably unfounded, but I do wonder about the longevity of this Pac Lite upper. Aluminum on the steel frame does worry me a bit. I'm sure it'll be fine, though.

I've always wanted a "hollywood quiet" compact pistol setup.

A suppressed 9mm is comparatively loud and HUGE...the tip-heavy weight of my Trident+Beretta is ungainly and it's excessive length leads you around corners. It makes you look super cool to your friends and turns on all of the little chicks out there, but I would never ever use it in any kind of engagement against armed enemies. The suppressor weight makes aiming a successive shot to a secondary/tertiary target very f'ing slow and dangerous. A suppressed .22 at least has some merit. I like the lightning speed of a lighter, more agile gun even if I am limited to head/neck/throat shots due it's caliber and terminal ballistic limitations. There aren't many handgun rounds that like body armor. A platform like this is certainly a "niche" tool, but in all honesty the .22's ballistics didn't seem to bother Mordechai Rachamim. Centerfire unsuppressed for immediate defensive use, rimfire silenced for the other oddball specialized applications.

The pac-lite, even if it doesn't have durable wear characteristics accomplishes all of the above on a nice accurate platform. Maybe you could hunt down one of those polymer 22/45 frames.

Either way, I'm impressed with your setup. Looks clean, quick and sexy.

Thanks. Yeah, I wanted a .22 for the same reasons. Near to true "Hollywood quiet" and cheap to shoot.

I have no interest in a 22/45 frame, per se. I wanted a metal one. I just would have considered buying one of the factory threaded ones for the simplicity and price. If they had been selling regular steel ones factory threaded, I would have bought one of those.

I honestly think you're going to be okay with this setup. The pac-lite series has been around for ages. Tons of people use them as high-volume shooters with many rounds put through every year. It seems like if it were a problem, you would hear a lot of complaints about frame/upper wear. Rimfire shooters are vocal...you don't have to look far to see that there are serious durability issues with the P22, or have been in the past. I looked hard and couldn't find any complaints about this kind of wear.

Enjoy your new toy...I think I'm going to go buy one later on this week.

[solitary.phoenix]

Hey, I want one of these speed-strip kits for my future ruger. Looks decent.

http://www.majesticarms.com/id10.html

[GTFord1]

I've looked at them before. Personally, I don't think stripping one is that big of a deal. After you do it a few times, it loosens up pretty well. I don't really have any problems getting the bolt working again. Very simple operation after you've got it down.

That being said, those speed strip kits are a novel idea, and Ruger certainly could have designed things better.

I'm sure you're right about the Pac Lite.

Edit: I found my problem with the help of a guy on RFcentral. The hammer pivot pin wasn't in all the way, it wasn't even coming out of the hole on the other side. It was causing the hammer assembly to get all cockeyed and drag. Works smooth and easy now.

[Bendersquint]

$75-100 for a dealer to do a simple 5 minute paperwork task . I just dont get why people think its so great to buy their "major" discounted silencer from an out of state dealer to only turn around and piss away the savings on some opportunistic dealer to transfer:?: I say buy local and patronize the dealers closer to ya and skip the Form 3, even if they charge ya full retail. Much faster too. To each his own, I guess. BTW, congrats on the Sparrow!

Well, those are some good points. No one around had it in stock, though...I don't even think there was a Silencerco dealer anywhere near me, at least that I could find on the internet. One in Miami? or something hours and hours away from me was selling them for $550 or something, so I'm still saving by ordering out of state. To add to that, several of the dealers I looked at had a stiff fee even if you bought one of their own suppressors. It can be a lot more than five minutes of paperwork, depending (ask GoingQuiet, I believe, with some nightmare stories.)

For "around $100," (their words) the dealer I'm using here in Central Florida walks you through all the paperwork, helps you with whatever, and makes sure you get everything done correctly. I don't think that's too outrageous for a NFA transfer.

Something else that not many people take into consideration with why these fees are that high is that the SOT must store your NFA Goodness until it transfers and that includes insuring it against theft, not to mention the numerous times most people want to schedule a conjugal visit and dealing with all the "Did my approved Form come in yet" and thats not even the beginning if the ATF has any issues. Don't forget a good SOT will go to bat for you with the CLEO if necessary. There is alot more behind the scenes things that go on than most people realize. Oh yeah lets not forget the SOT Tax due each year regardless of how many or how little business you do, would take a ton of NFA transfers at $25 apiece to just break even.

$100 is totally fair if you ask me. I used to charge $20 for an AOW, $50 for a can/SBR/SBS, and $100 for MG's.

-B

[solitary.phoenix]

Glad you got your issues worked out. Yeah, I've never stripped one so I haven't got a clue. I've heard they can be a bitch.

Man, I've got the rimfire poodleshooter bug bad now. Post some pictures of that final setup...

edit: forgot to add this.

http://www.tactical-life.com/online/tac ... ad-22-lrs/

[Blaubart]

$75-100 for a dealer to do a simple 5 minute paperwork task . I just dont get why people think its so great to buy their "major" discounted silencer from an out of state dealer to only turn around and piss away the savings on some opportunistic dealer to transfer:?: I say buy local and patronize the dealers closer to ya and skip the Form 3, even if they charge ya full retail. Much faster too. To each his own, I guess. BTW, congrats on the Sparrow!

The full retail price that my local dealer wanted to charge me was $200 higher than the price I got on my Trident and maybe $50-100 higher than the price I got on my Sparrow from the Major, plus my local dealer didn't have either in stock. They got to my local dealer in three weeks and he charged me $100 total for the transfer of both.

I transferred two silencers through him, and bought two Tac-Sol barrels from him. I consider that to be patronizing my local dealer.

...and 5 minutes is a bit of an understatement. He received the silencers, met with me for about a half an hour while we chatted and filled out the paperwork (this was the first time he had done a transfer to a corporation). He stored them in his safe for 3-4 months, called me the day the paperwork came back approved, and then chatted with me for another half an hour when I came to pick them up, buy barrels and test them for proper fit, etc.

He probably "earned" about $150-200 from me for doing about 1-2 hours worth of work, which I think is very reasonable.

[kwikrnu]

I can't believe there are people who say MkIIs/IIIs are "too light" with the Pac Lite.

A 22/45 (plastic frame) with a Pac-Lite is very light. Some people think they're too light, and I agree to a certain extent. OTOH, they're great for backpacking.

They aren't too light. With the red dot the 22/45 is 25 and 1/8 ounces. The fluted one is a little lighter, but not much.