Saker 556 Issue

[pcman312]

I got my Saker 556 yesterday and took it to the range today. I absolutely love it. I'm looking forward to taking it outdoors where it can really shine.

I am having a problem with it though. When I got home, I let the can cool off on the rifle (it's mounted on the trifecta flash hider), but I can't get it to release from the rifle. I know I put it on snug before I fired it at the range, and now it's on there so tightly that I can't take it off without taking the flash hider with it. Anyone have any suggestions?

[bcannon87]

Possibly a little penetrating oil like kroil on the threads and let it sit for a bit.

[RJT]

Once you get it apart, you need to apply some Rocksett, and properly torque the FH to the host. I bet that will cure your problem in the future.

[pcman312]

Possibly a little penetrating oil like kroil on the threads and let it sit for a bit.

I put some of my froglube in there last night. It's not as powerful as kroil, but hopefully it has helped.

Once you get it apart, you need to apply some Rocksett, and properly torque the FH to the host. I bet that will cure your problem in the future.

I was planning on using some blue loctite for it, though I probably won't on this particular rifle since the rifle it's on isn't going to be the primary home of the saker. But that's neither here nor there. I had to put some serious muscle onto the saker itself to try to get it to come off, but the flash hider ended up coming with it before the suppressor loosened even a little. If the froglube doesn't work, I'll pick up some kroil or other penetrating oil and try again.

[RJT]

Blue will melt away fast, and you'll be in the same boat again. You're better off spending the extra coin on more FHs for the other hosts. You bought a premium can, now nut up, and buy the extra mounts.

[pcman312]

Blue will melt away fast, and you'll be in the same boat again. You're better off spending the extra coin on more FHs for the other hosts. You bought a premium can, now nut up, and buy the extra mounts.

The fact that the can is going to live on a different rifle has nothing to do with the fact that it's stuck on the current one. Buying a new FH will not solve the current problem. My comments regarding where it will live were just a random tangent. For the record, it's going to (primarily) live on a piston gun, not a DI gun which is where it is now. The only reason it isn't on the piston gun is because it hasn't arrived yet.

Back to the problem at hand: is it generally a better idea to take the saker off (safely with protection) when it's warm, or should it not matter whether it's hot/warm/cold?

[MJF1911]

Can you get a wrench on the back of the mount or put it in a vise and work on it that way?

[pcman312]

Can you get a wrench on the back of the mount or put it in a vise and work on it that way?

I don't see how. The FH barely shows anything when the can is mounted. However, I have been able to pull the can itself off and expose the front of the FH. Unfortunately, the mount is round and doesn't provide much to grab onto without damaging it. I'm going to stop by a hardware store to get some penetrating oil tomorrow and basically soak it for a while to try to get it free.

[savagetactical]

This is what I reccomend: after you soak the mount in kroil, loctite or rockset the mount back on and let it fully cure (24-48 hrs). Don't shoot the rifle while your waiting. The try to remove the suppressor normally. That's what I had to do to my SDN-6 when the same thing happened to my rifle. To keep it from sticking again, I reccomend removing it every few hundred rounds. AAC recommends 500 rounds for 51t mounts like mine; your saker should probably be removed more often. Email silencerco for further advice on freeing the mount and round counts between removing/reattaching the suppressor. They would be more than happy to help.

[jdasilva]

i had this issue when i got mine; the teeth are stuck on the flash hider. Get something small & pry them off the flash hider. after you get it off, give the maad mount a good cleaning. You may have over tightened the maad mount onto the flash hider & the heat & fowling made the teeth stick. I had to take my handgaurd off to do it.

[pcman312]

Well, I soaked it in some penetrating oil, but that didn't seem to loosen it up.

This is what I reccomend: after you soak the mount in kroil, loctite or rockset the mount back on and let it fully cure (24-48 hrs). Don't shoot the rifle while your waiting. The try to remove the suppressor normally. That's what I had to do to my SDN-6 when the same thing happened to my rifle. To keep it from sticking again, I reccomend removing it every few hundred rounds. AAC recommends 500 rounds for 51t mounts like mine; your saker should probably be removed more often. Email silencerco for further advice on freeing the mount and round counts between removing/reattaching the suppressor. They would be more than happy to help.

You and I are on the same wavelength. I'll use some threadlocker and crank down the FH, let it cure for a couple of days, then try again. Any suggestions on ways that I can get some extra leverage on the can itself? I don't want to damage the can (cosmetic scratches are acceptable, but any crushing/warping of the can is not), so I'm thinking of some sort of strap to wrap around the can to get some extra friction and leverage.

[srt-4_uk]

GO shoot it, then take it off. getting the can hot will make it come apart easier.

[blackops_1]

Well, I soaked it in some penetrating oil, but that didn't seem to loosen it up.

This is what I reccomend: after you soak the mount in kroil, loctite or rockset the mount back on and let it fully cure (24-48 hrs). Don't shoot the rifle while your waiting. The try to remove the suppressor normally. That's what I had to do to my SDN-6 when the same thing happened to my rifle. To keep it from sticking again, I reccomend removing it every few hundred rounds. AAC recommends 500 rounds for 51t mounts like mine; your saker should probably be removed more often. Email silencerco for further advice on freeing the mount and round counts between removing/reattaching the suppressor. They would be more than happy to help.

You and I are on the same wavelength. I'll use some threadlocker and crank down the FH, let it cure for a couple of days, then try again. Any suggestions on ways that I can get some extra leverage on the can itself? I don't want to damage the can (cosmetic scratches are acceptable, but any crushing/warping of the can is not), so I'm thinking of some sort of strap to wrap around the can to get some extra friction and leverage.

Your local hardware store should have some sort of strap wrench like this. Good idea to get one with a rubber strap and not nylon like some have.

http://www.amazon.com/BOA-BO13010-Const ... uctDetails

[pcman312]

GO shoot it, then take it off. getting the can hot will make it come apart easier.

I've thought of this as well. It's on my list of things to try after these other attempts.

[pcman312]

Success! I got a couple of strap wrenches, attached one to the MAAD mount and the other to the body. After a false start where I discovered the mount wasn't wrenched down tight enough to the body (and another where I smashed my fingers when tightening the lock ring which was my own stupid fault), I was able to free it from the FH. After a thorough cleaning of the rifle, FH, mount, and suppressor (god the rifle was filthy, and it was clean when I went shooting with it last week), it is attaching and detaching without too much of an issue now. However, I did discover that I can tighten the saker down on the FH (with just one hand) tight enough that I can't get it off with one hand. Are there any specific recommendations regarding how hard I should tighten it when I put it on? I don't think the carbon buildup was the root problem (though it may have contributed a little). I suspect the contraction of the metal during cooling tightened the saker down around the FH enough that it made it so I couldn't get it free without removing the FH too (rocksett is on the way).

[pcman312]

I should also mention that I contacted SilencerCo's support about the issue and I absolutely give them an A+. Not only did they respond quickly and give me suggestions on how to break it free, but they also offered to replace the MAAD mount and FH so they can take a look at the one I have to see if there is any problem with it (which if there is, would hopefully lead to fixing or catching the problem during manufacturing).

[newgunguy3]

I should also mention that I contacted SilencerCo's support about the issue and I absolutely give them an A+. Not only did they respond quickly and give me suggestions on how to break it free, but they also offered to replace the MAAD mount and FH so they can take a look at the one I have to see if there is any problem with it (which if there is, would hopefully lead to fixing or catching the problem during manufacturing).

+100 on this! I had the same problem over the weekend with my new Saker -- couldn't get my brand new Saker off the FH. Took the upper with the can to the SiCo dealer and they ended up having to use the silencer wrench to get it off. After removing the mount, we saw the teeth were acting weird and not retracting as they should be. Only had 200 rnds through it.

Contacted SiCo and they responded by shipping a new mount and asking the old one back. Top notch people all the way around.

[Cornholeo]

I run into the same problem today after running 100 rounds through the Saker with Trifecta mount. I was able to remover the suppressor but the mount will not come off. Applied penterating oil and let sit as well as applying oil to area around teeth.At first I could not get the detent out of the lock position but was finally able to get it out of lock position and teeth pulled back some. The teeth would not back off all the way and the mount is stuck on the Trifecta. The mount was set with rock set so getting it broke loose was not possible. We'll it broke loose but could not get it past a complete turn as strap wrench began to slip. I will call Silencer Co in the am. Love the can but what a pain in the butt.

[Cornholeo]

I spoke to Silencerco today and they were exceptional! Sending out new mount so I can have the old one taken off and new one installed at the same time. I will update when I get it installed.

[Conqueror]

It was mentioned above but please, do not use Loctite to install your mount. All forms of Loctite are designed to break down when heated. This is not an adequate substance to secure a mount. Rocksett is far more heat-resistant and far superior when you are risking a thousand-dollar purchase.

[Cornholeo]

RGR that. I used rockset on new out and tried something else, I used fireclean at each tooth point and then worked mount vigorously. Mount locked up tight and removed without problems. FireClean will be a regular treatment on the mount for me.

[m60mgman]

I thought I'd add my experience with the sticking and other issues.

My Saker when new and unfired on my M16a1:



First time out I had only shot it about 3 or 4 mags, shoots great with no POI shift, and very accurate with my Aimpoint up close..
Tried to take it off at the end of the day, but could not get it off. Somehow later at home I was able to get it off. I really don't remember how, but I do remember it was a struggle.

Next time out I thought I had it down on the Trifecta and snugged it tight by hand, and after about 20 odd shots the can shot off the Trifecta like an RPG 20 yards downrange. You really get an appreciation for the suppression the Saker achieves when it pops off: we 'bout crapped our pants with that shot. Thankfully no internal damage since the bullet must have been well past the can.

Here is the lesser of the finish loss: the MAAD took the brunt of it down to the bare metal for half of the base. I call this "Re-entry" finish.


I think I did not have it as snug down on the Trifecta as I thought, so the levers were not under the ledge, or barely engaged, or if engaged, it unscrewed just enough to release.

The Trifecta was marred where the levers scraped during launch, and the levers looked messed up: kudos to Silencerco they sent me a new Trifecta and MAAD mount by next day UPS.

OK the Trifecta goes on the gun and the MAAD on my Saker, but now I could not for the life of me get the levers retracted.

Tyler at Silencerco says turn a Trifecta around and use the base in the MAAD with the multi tool, turning it counterclockwise, the levers retract with a click. Wow, it takes quite a bit of force to do that, I think.

OK next the MAAD would not seat down far enough to engage the flange of the Trifecta. ARRGG!

So I wrench the MAAD and Saker counterclockwise from each other and after an enormous torquing it released, allowing the ratcheting part to unscrew about a turn which allows the MAAD to seat correctly on the Trifecta. However, now there is no ratcheting sound when I tighten the MAAD onto the Trifecta. It just screws down, no clicks like on my first MAAD. What's up with that? I still don't know.

In trial mounting, sometimes I notice after tightening it I can give it a good pull and the MAAD will pop off the Trifecta. Here again, I think it's because I don't really have it seated as far as I need.

So now as I tighten the MAAD I pull up and push down to be sure the levers are engaging. It will have some back and forth play before the levers engage fully.

I will tighten it, then untighten and check again that the levers are engaged. I really like my Saker (Osprey and Sparrow too) and Silencerco CS, but this mount I cannot trust: it's an engineering marvel, but for my tastes, too complicated, finicky and prone to insecure locking.

I don't see how this could possibly be used in the field without a tool box and lots of different penetrating agents in your car.

I'm going to test it again but if there are any more issues, the screw mount goes on and the MAAD goes into a box.
My .02.

[nhoj_yelbom]

I thought I'd add my experience with the sticking and other issues.

My Saker when new and unfired on my M16a1:



First time out I had only shot it about 3 or 4 mags, shoots great with no POI shift, and very accurate with my Aimpoint up close..
Tried to take it off at the end of the day, but could not get it off. Somehow later at home I was able to get it off. I really don't remember how, but I do remember it was a struggle.

Next time out I thought I had it down on the Trifecta and snugged it tight by hand, and after about 20 odd shots the can shot off the Trifecta like an RPG 20 yards downrange. You really get an appreciation for the suppression the Saker achieves when it pops off: we 'bout crapped our pants with that shot. Thankfully no internal damage since the bullet must have been well past the can.

Here is the lesser of the finish loss: the MAAD took the brunt of it down to the bare metal for half of the base. I call this "Re-entry" finish.


I think I did not have it as snug down on the Trifecta as I thought, so the levers were not under the ledge, or barely engaged, or if engaged, it unscrewed just enough to release.

The Trifecta was marred where the levers scraped during launch, and the levers looked messed up: kudos to Silencerco they sent me a new Trifecta and MAAD mount by next day UPS.

OK the Trifecta goes on the gun and the MAAD on my Saker, but now I could not for the life of me get the levers retracted.

Tyler at Silencerco says turn a Trifecta around and use the base in the MAAD with the multi tool, turning it counterclockwise, the levers retract with a click. Wow, it takes quite a bit of force to do that, I think.

OK next the MAAD would not seat down far enough to engage the flange of the Trifecta. ARRGG!

So I wrench the MAAD and Saker counterclockwise from each other and after an enormous torquing it released, allowing the ratcheting part to unscrew about a turn which allows the MAAD to seat correctly on the Trifecta. However, now there is no ratcheting sound when I tighten the MAAD onto the Trifecta. It just screws down, no clicks like on my first MAAD. What's up with that? I still don't know.

In trial mounting, sometimes I notice after tightening it I can give it a good pull and the MAAD will pop off the Trifecta. Here again, I think it's because I don't really have it seated as far as I need.

So now as I tighten the MAAD I pull up and push down to be sure the levers are engaging. It will have some back and forth play before the levers engage fully.

I will tighten it, then untighten and check again that the levers are engaged. I really like my Saker (Osprey and Sparrow too) and Silencerco CS, but this mount I cannot trust: it's an engineering marvel, but for my tastes, too complicated, finicky and prone to insecure locking.

I don't see how this could possibly be used in the field without a tool box and lots of different penetrating agents in your car.

I'm going to test it again but if there are any more issues, the screw mount goes on and the MAAD goes into a box.
My .02.

i would be very MAAD! sucks

[jh1990]

I thought I'd add my experience with the sticking and other issues.

My Saker when new and unfired on my M16a1:



First time out I had only shot it about 3 or 4 mags, shoots great with no POI shift, and very accurate with my Aimpoint up close..
Tried to take it off at the end of the day, but could not get it off. Somehow later at home I was able to get it off. I really don't remember how, but I do remember it was a struggle.

Next time out I thought I had it down on the Trifecta and snugged it tight by hand, and after about 20 odd shots the can shot off the Trifecta like an RPG 20 yards downrange. You really get an appreciation for the suppression the Saker achieves when it pops off: we 'bout crapped our pants with that shot. Thankfully no internal damage since the bullet must have been well past the can.

Here is the lesser of the finish loss: the MAAD took the brunt of it down to the bare metal for half of the base. I call this "Re-entry" finish.


I think I did not have it as snug down on the Trifecta as I thought, so the levers were not under the ledge, or barely engaged, or if engaged, it unscrewed just enough to release.

The Trifecta was marred where the levers scraped during launch, and the levers looked messed up: kudos to Silencerco they sent me a new Trifecta and MAAD mount by next day UPS.

OK the Trifecta goes on the gun and the MAAD on my Saker, but now I could not for the life of me get the levers retracted.

Tyler at Silencerco says turn a Trifecta around and use the base in the MAAD with the multi tool, turning it counterclockwise, the levers retract with a click. Wow, it takes quite a bit of force to do that, I think.

OK next the MAAD would not seat down far enough to engage the flange of the Trifecta. ARRGG!

So I wrench the MAAD and Saker counterclockwise from each other and after an enormous torquing it released, allowing the ratcheting part to unscrew about a turn which allows the MAAD to seat correctly on the Trifecta. However, now there is no ratcheting sound when I tighten the MAAD onto the Trifecta. It just screws down, no clicks like on my first MAAD. What's up with that? I still don't know.

In trial mounting, sometimes I notice after tightening it I can give it a good pull and the MAAD will pop off the Trifecta. Here again, I think it's because I don't really have it seated as far as I need.

So now as I tighten the MAAD I pull up and push down to be sure the levers are engaging. It will have some back and forth play before the levers engage fully.

I will tighten it, then untighten and check again that the levers are engaged. I really like my Saker (Osprey and Sparrow too) and Silencerco CS, but this mount I cannot trust: it's an engineering marvel, but for my tastes, too complicated, finicky and prone to insecure locking.

I don't see how this could possibly be used in the field without a tool box and lots of different penetrating agents in your car.

I'm going to test it again but if there are any more issues, the screw mount goes on and the MAAD goes into a box.
My .02.

You couldn't get the levers to retract on a brand new MAAD mount? That is odd as I could do it brand new out of the box with very little effort. If the MAAD would not seat far enough on the mount either the levers were not fully retracted or there is a defect somewhere.

[themonk]

Rockset the mount and get some Nickel Anti-Seize to lightly apply to the mount - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ ... UTF8&psc=1