Does using corrosive ammo mean you need a take-apart? Or can you just soak the can in something?
A little research says that potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride or sodium chloride.
Both of these have a solubility of 350 g / L. So a 2 liter bottle full of water should do the trick. Are there any other corrosive chemicals I need to worry about?
Corrosive ammunition & Suppressors
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Re: Corrosive ammunition & Suppressors
You don't NEED a take apart can for rifles at all.wacki wrote:Does using corrosive ammo mean you need a take-apart? Or can you just soak the can in something?
A little research says that potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride or sodium chloride.
Both of these have a solubility of 350 g / L. So a 2 liter bottle full of water should do the trick. Are there any other corrosive chemicals I need to worry about?
When I have shot corrosive I merely rinsed it out with hot water and then air hosed it as dry as possible.
No corrosion even through internal examination.
Re: Corrosive ammunition & Suppressors
...For the same reason you don't need a take-apart barrel to clean after shooting corrosive ammo...
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Re: Corrosive ammunition & Suppressors
For clarification, the ammunition is not corrosive. It is the Sodium Petrochlorate in the
primers that coats the barrel and in turn attracts moisture which create chemical
corrosion.
In particular after firing Berdan primed .303 I always flushed out the barrel
with boiling soapy water, followed by a clean flush. [ Imagine giving Democrat
politicians an enema with a Harley motor piston
]. The heat quickly evaporated any
residual water. Then finished with oil.
My method on the Enfield barrel: placed barrel front into pan of boiling water and used
a patch on my steel Garand, rotating handle, cleaning rod to create a piston effect
that lifted the water up into the barrel.
Of note, the lousy two hole Berdan primers made reloading not worth it. OK, I confess
that in 1967 at a penny a round for 6 steel British cases of .303 from my importer friend
compensated for the inconvenience.
primers that coats the barrel and in turn attracts moisture which create chemical
corrosion.
In particular after firing Berdan primed .303 I always flushed out the barrel
with boiling soapy water, followed by a clean flush. [ Imagine giving Democrat
politicians an enema with a Harley motor piston
]. The heat quickly evaporated anyresidual water. Then finished with oil.
My method on the Enfield barrel: placed barrel front into pan of boiling water and used
a patch on my steel Garand, rotating handle, cleaning rod to create a piston effect
that lifted the water up into the barrel.
Of note, the lousy two hole Berdan primers made reloading not worth it. OK, I confess
that in 1967 at a penny a round for 6 steel British cases of .303 from my importer friend
compensated for the inconvenience.