Thread on can: Best way to keep it from unscrewing

[rockman96]

It does NOT cure as intended in open air. You said you are letting things set for two days to cure to the point you are using it... used properly it cures in 30 minutes. The bolts you get that have the pre-applied (dried) compound is entirely different, and is not the same as what comes from the bottles that you purchase over the counter.

[Bendersquint]

It does NOT cure as intended in open air. You said you are letting things set for two days to cure to the point you are using it... used properly it cures in 30 minutes. The bolts you get that have the pre-applied (dried) compound is entirely different, and is not the same as what comes from the bottles that you purchase over the counter.

Loctite said it was the same compound.

[Broken11B]

Well, I tried putting a drop on the threads and leaving it to cure like you suggested, Bender. This is Loctite 242 "Blue Threadlocker". 2 days later, it's still wet.

Loctite e-mailed me this:
"Threadlockers are anaerobic adhesives, meaning they will not cure until they are taken away from exposure to air. I'm curious if the product you are seeing that is still wet is exposed? "

Implying I need to attach the can, not just let the loctite sit on the threads. Are you using a different kind or something?

Looks like I'll be trying Teflon tape...Loctite seems to be a bust.

[Bendersquint]

Well, I tried putting a drop on the threads and leaving it to cure like you suggested, Bender. This is Loctite 242 "Blue Threadlocker". 2 days later, it's still wet.

Loctite e-mailed me this:
"Threadlockers are anaerobic adhesives, meaning they will not cure until they are taken away from exposure to air. I'm curious if the product you are seeing that is still wet is exposed? "

Implying I need to attach the can, not just let the loctite sit on the threads. Are you using a different kind or something?

Looks like I'll be trying Teflon tape...Loctite seems to be a bust.

Will look at the bottle and see what it is. Just did it 3 days ago for an AK recore and it was dried when I screwed the endcap on.

What is also odd is that last year I used the blue loctite and left the bottle open came back 4 or 5 days later and it was solid, it dried out.......anerobic? Not that bottle.

[Broken11B]

Please let me know...because the 242 is not working and I don't think actually attaching the suppressor then backing the threads off later for transport or cleaning will produce the desired results.

[rockman96]

Please let me know...because the 242 is not working and I don't think actually attaching the suppressor then backing the threads off later for transport or cleaning will produce the desired results.

Have you tried putting 242 on the threads and mounting the can yet? If you haven't, then how do you know it won't work? Your results are exactly what I predicted earlier by following benders method, and I told you how to do it so that it would work. When that stuff is cured, it leaves behind buildup on the (both) threads when you take it back apart. It will be stiff to put on or take off, but not hard to do... IOW, it will keep the can from backing off nearly as easy.

I don't know why you're scared to try it.

[Munk]

I'm sort of confused about this the whole Loctite thing. I assumed it was not anaerobic, partly because if it were, whats to keep loctite from curing inside of its own bottle when not in use? Or more specifically, what exactly does loctite react with to trigger the curing process, if not air?

[Bendersquint]

I'm sort of confused about this the whole Loctite thing. I assumed it was not anaerobic, partly because if it were, whats to keep loctite from curing inside of its own bottle when not in use? Or more specifically, what exactly does loctite react with to trigger the curing process, if not air?

Exactly, the loctite dries out, so maybe I have mystery Loctite that is air cure....

[Broken11B]

Please let me know...because the 242 is not working and I don't think actually attaching the suppressor then backing the threads off later for transport or cleaning will produce the desired results.

Have you tried putting 242 on the threads and mounting the can yet? If you haven't, then how do you know it won't work? Your results are exactly what I predicted earlier by following benders method, and I told you how to do it so that it would work. When that stuff is cured, it leaves behind buildup on the (both) threads when you take it back apart. It will be stiff to put on or take off, but not hard to do... IOW, it will keep the can from backing off nearly as easy.

I don't know why you're scared to try it.

I'm not scared to try it, I would just rather not waste the tiny bottle trying things out, but would like the fewest attempts for the intended outcome. Since I've got more than one thread-on suppressor, I need it to go a long way. Let me rephrase my last post: it was not working using Bender's method that he uses on his own cans so I was seeking clarification. My rationale was listed by Munk in the post below yours. I was also waiting to make sure Bender was using the same 242 blue thread locker (since his air dries) before proceeding with attaching the can.

[rockman96]

I can't explain the physics of it, I just use the stuff a lot and I know how it reacts. Sort of like when the wife makes a really great cake... I don't know what she put in it, and I don't really care. I just eat it and enjoy it.

Just try it. It's not THAT expensive, and it only takes a few drops. If you don't like it, clean it up and do something else.

[aries14482]

I've been using Rocksett with my Ranger 2 + 16" AR15 with great results so far. I leave the can attached, muzzle down for storage, and remove it about once a month for inspection and to clean the host's bore.

I attach using a strap wrench, Rocksett, and a little more torque than I can get with my hands. I remove with said strap wrench.

[yamatitan]

I have not had luck with the 242 drying in air either. The blue you see on pre packaged assembly screws is usually loctite 248 it still wont cure properly until the abscense of air but it stays on the screws until assembly.

[everyusernametaken]

There are solid thread-locking/sealant compounds out there which sometimes come pre-applied to fasteners. One example off the top of my head is automotive brake system "speed bleeders", which are bleed screws with a solid sealant coating the threads to prevent air from getting into the hydraulic system while releasing the brakes during bleeding (the check valve closes the bleed nipple, but air would still get past the threads without some sort of sealant). This sealant survives multiple removal/reinstalls. I don't know exactly what product they use, but you might ask them.

[Broken11B]

Well, I opted for a couple drops of threadlocker and tightening the can on. Worked pretty well...I hand tightened it and bumped it with a wrench (my can has wrench flats) to get it a few pounds over hand tight. I shot probably 30 rounds after a few hours with no problems and it was all dry. Unscrewed it with some force so it's pretty convincing that it wouldn't come loose during firing unless I shot enough to smoke the finish off.

I think teflon tape will be enough for my pistol cans but the 242 thread locker (when used correctly) was pretty effective for my rifle can.

[BigWonton]

I've had pretty good luck with Vibra-Tite VC-3 on screw threads in "normal" applications but I'm not sure how it would stand up to the heat on a barrel.

[Broken11B]

Vibra Tite's temperature range is maxed out at 165 degrees....teflon tape (PTFE teflon) has a melting point of 625 degrees. Since Vibra Tite doesn't "lock up" I don't know if it'd do anything teflon tape can't. The big point: I don't think I've ever even seen Vibra Tite before. But I'm always open to new ideas, so thanks for the suggestion.