General silencer discussion. If you want to talk about a specific silenced rifle or pistol, it is best to do that in the rifle or pistol section for that brand.
I did a quick search but couldn't find anything, so if there is an existing thread, please post a link to it and then lock this one.
One of the largest causes of baffle strikes in thread-on cans is the suppressor working itself loose during shooting (or so I've heard). In the instances where a QD mount is not a possible (or wanted) option, what is the best way to help keep your can from unintentionally unscrewing itself without having to manually check over and over?
There's got to be something that works well...and I'm betting someone here knows what it is!
I've read use a thin O-Ring, a couple THIN wavy washers (not split) so it doesn't effect the concentricity, or Nordlock washers.
The bad thing I've read about teflon tape is the toxic fumes that are released at the burn point of teflon.
I have 2 thread on cans. Just make sure the threads are free of lubrication and really tighten it. With my rifle, I put the stock between my feet and really snug it up.
Those Nord-lock washers are pretty damn clever! I wonder if they make them thin enough to use for something like a suppressor (especially because you have to install them in pairs).
Teflon tape works great on pistol cans but I don't use on my rifle cans.
Rockset or Loctite again requires a Wench.
I have used O rings - Nitrile usable to 250° F - Silicon melts 1,400 ° F - you get one that's snug
at the base of the threads and when you screw down the can it squeezes it and creates friction.
"Trying to tax yourself into prosperity is like standing in a bucket and trying to pick yourself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill
I use blue loctite, doesnt require a wrench to remove, apply once and forget about it unlike tape that you have to replace often.
I put it at the base of the threads near the shoulder so the last twist is tight so i am not fighting with it to get it unscrewed.
Never done me wrong. Nordlock washers is another story. Used them once got a baffle strike and after i bought a strap to take it off they went in the trash.
I recommend that you never use a spring to prevent unscrewing. IMhO the only place in a silencer for a spring is in the booster assy. Seen too many damaged cans because of either split wave washers or belleville washers inside.
I'm with Bendersquint on this.The other choice is left hand threads if you roll your own.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Couple of guys, including one that used to do a lot of work in the suppressor industry, was saying Nordlock washers were great, no problems, etc and another member bought one based off of the recommendation.
I guess it's hit or miss. If it throws off the alignment when installed, it's not going to work.
Yes blue loc tite, is your best friend. Although I have not had to use anything on my metric left hand threaded sig 226 (trident9). On my sub gun I use a three lug mount with Teflon tape just because I hardly ever take the three lug mount off but if I do the tape cleans up pretty easy. Just depends on your host,
Bendersquint wrote:I use blue loctite, doesnt require a wrench to remove, apply once and forget about it unlike tape that you have to replace often.
I put it at the base of the threads near the shoulder so the last twist is tight so i am not fighting with it to get it unscrewed.
Never done me wrong. Nordlock washers is another story. Used them once got a baffle strike and after i bought a strap to take it off they went in the trash.
I recommend that you never use a spring to prevent unscrewing. IMhO the only place in a silencer for a spring is in the booster assy. Seen too many damaged cans because of either split wave washers or belleville washers inside.
So with the blue loctite, you don't ever find yourself needing to reapply after a certain number of screwing/unscrewing the suppressor?
Bendersquint wrote:I use blue loctite, doesnt require a wrench to remove, apply once and forget about it unlike tape that you have to replace often.
I put it at the base of the threads near the shoulder so the last twist is tight so i am not fighting with it to get it unscrewed.
Never done me wrong. Nordlock washers is another story. Used them once got a baffle strike and after i bought a strap to take it off they went in the trash.
I recommend that you never use a spring to prevent unscrewing. IMhO the only place in a silencer for a spring is in the booster assy. Seen too many damaged cans because of either split wave washers or belleville washers inside.
So with the blue loctite, you don't ever find yourself needing to reapply after a certain number of screwing/unscrewing the suppressor?
I have yet to wear the blue loctite off of my cans or the hosts. Going on 8 years now and still ticking strong.
So you just apply the blue loctite to the threads, and let it set without the can on, so the can snugs up on the dried loctite? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but if I'm using the can on multiple hosts, just wanted to make sure that's what you meant.
I've read several times that LH-threaded mounting reduces the tendency for the suppressor to unscrew, but I don't see how this would be inherently better than a RH-threaded mount, all else being equal. Is there something about the specific design of the M13.5x1LH interface that increases friction between the barrel and piston threads? If the mount uses an o-ring, obviously that would make a difference.
BTW, someone was asking about finding silicone o-rings: check McMaster Carr. I'd look at Viton o-rings, which can handle very high temperatures as well as tolerating extended exposure to various HC compounds.
Fallschirmjäger wrote:So you just apply the blue loctite to the threads, and let it set without the can on, so the can snugs up on the dried loctite? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but if I'm using thee can on multiple hosts, just wanted to make sure that's what you meant.
Yes i put a drop of blue loctite on and let it cure for a couple days.
Just apply a drop to each host and don't look back.
Just put it at the very end of the threads so the last little twist interferes with the loctite. Works perfectly.
Then there is another, not so commonly seen method:
Brass or lead tipped flat faced set screw*.
Does not mar the threads, does not require heating to loosen
Loctite, and can be made easily. I have used this method to keep lathe bull gear set screw
from loosening up and there has been no damage to lathe spindle/threads.
*For example snip off a piece of lead solder or brass rod the diameter of
set screw using:
a. Neiko Allen Head Hex Socket Set Screw
b. Baltimore Street Irons Knurled Set Screw
Fallschirmjäger wrote:So you just apply the blue loctite to the threads, and let it set without the can on, so the can snugs up on the dried loctite? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but if I'm using thee can on multiple hosts, just wanted to make sure that's what you meant.
Yes i put a drop of blue loctite on and let it cure for a couple days.
Just apply a drop to each host and don't look back.
Just put it at the very end of the threads so the last little twist interferes with the loctite. Works perfectly.
Excellent! Thanks for the tip, that will really help!
Since I have never used locktite in the method mentioned of appling, letting it skin over and then using it for multiple applications, I did a search of the locktite application publications. In my search I found this threadlocker compond that looks promising http://www.rivetsonline.com/threadlocke ... -vc-3.html. I think iI have used this product years ago, but repackage as "Propritary Use Only" for securing small nuts inside an electric generator.
However before I look into acquiring that stuff, I'm going to try the blue loctite as suggested.
JFB wrote:Since I have never used locktite in the method mentioned of appling, letting it skin over and then using it for multiple applications, I did a search of the locktite application publications. In my search I found this threadlocker compond that looks promising http://www.rivetsonline.com/threadlocke ... -vc-3.html. I think iI have used this product years ago, but repackage as "Propritary Use Only" for securing small nuts inside an electric generator.
However before I look into acquiring that stuff, I'm going to try the blue loctite as suggested.
That VC3 stuff looks promising. I've never used it, but I've used non-hardening thread sealants a lot, and it seems like that sort of thing might work here. Only question is how messy it gets - some thread sealants would become a nightmare.
The correct way to use the blue (or any) Loctite is to clean threads with brake cleaner/lacquer thinner/denatured alcohol/or similar, put a bit of loctite on the male threads, screw the can on tight, and let it set 30 minutes. Loctite doesn't really cure up in the open, it needs to be in a joint to cure. DO NOT try this with red loctite, or the green retaining (loctite) compound! The blue stuff will break free, and what stays in the threads after removal will help keep things tight during future use. Sort of a friction fit.
In addition to brass/setscrew, nylon or teflon rod will work too. If you're shooting full auto, leather gloves and continuous checking is definitely the way to go.
rockman96 wrote:The correct way to use the blue (or any) Loctite is to clean threads with brake cleaner/lacquer thinner/denatured alcohol/or similar, put a bit of loctite on the male threads, screw the can on tight, and let it set 30 minutes. Loctite doesn't really cure up in the open, it needs to be in a joint to cure. DO NOT try this with red loctite, or the green retaining (loctite) compound! The blue stuff will break free, and what stays in the threads after removal will help keep things tight during future use. Sort of a friction fit.
In addition to brass/setscrew, nylon or teflon rod will work too. If you're shooting full auto, leather gloves and continuous checking is definitely the way to go.
All the blue loctite that I have used cures in open air. Surely you have seen the bolts that are sold with the blue loctite drop on them?
Only certain types require a fitted component for curing.
