Ruger I-Tac 10/22 thread issue

[QuIet Noob]

Finally got to go to the range today and had an unpleasant surprise. Threads on new 10/22 were almost twice as long as needed. It seems like I read about this before but my search fu did not find it.

By my eyeball estimate there was at least 1/4 inch of thread left after the Spectre II bottomed out. Is a spacer necessary? If so, we're is the best place to buy.

The new sdn6 worked great on the 5.56 today. First time out with it as well. It was a little quiter than I remembered. Still loud though.

[ronin111]

Silencerco sells a spacer just for this.

http://www.superiorsilence.com/collecti ... ead-spacer

[QuIet Noob]

Thanks for the quick reply.

[MJF1911]

In stock here:
http://www.thesilencerstore.com/index.p ... ducts_id=1

[OJB4]

Finally got to go to the range today and had an unpleasant surprise. Threads on new 10/22 were almost twice as long as needed. It seems like I read about this before but my search fu did not find it.

By my eyeball estimate there was at least 1/4 inch of thread left after the Spectre II bottomed out. Is a spacer necessary? If so, we're is the best place to buy.

The new sdn6 worked great on the 5.56 today. First time out with it as well. It was a little quiter than I remembered. Still loud though.

I'm new to this game and have the same problem.

I'm thinking you have the same Ruger 10/22 as I (with a factory installed small spacer and a flash hider???). I asked this question a while back and ordered the spacers from silencerstore.com. I just took a measurement and got .70 inches from muzzle to shoulder of the barrel. The spacer from silencerstore.com measures in at .20 inches.

Anybody have any info since one spacer isn't enough? Would two spacers take up too much space (leaving only .3 inches of thread) and leave not enough threads to mount a can? The small factory spacer is .1 inch, but if y'all think using the factory one and the larger one from thesilencerstore.com might be bad juju then I'll avoid that too.

Thanks

[SRM]

.22 lr thread length is around .400" length. I cut mine to .420".

I would find a good smith and shorten those darn things.

[OJB4]

.22 lr thread length is around .400" length. I cut mine to .420".

I would find a good smith and shorten those darn things.

Using a spacer doesn't really bother me, but I'm not so sure about using two (especially two different makes and sizes)......I'd hate to mess up any of my cans. I haven't even shot one and the other two don't have a combined 100 rounds fired through the two of them.

I'm looking for a good smith close to me now. I found somebody, but I've heard that he has an 8 month wait for a barrel to be blued. Not sure about cutting and threading barrels. I need to get off my ass and go by his place and check 'em out. I do know a good friend of the guy who does the cutting and threading so hopefully I can be THAT guy who gets his stuff put ahead of other peoples work.....or meet him there after hours and help him! Might even learn something about my guns.

Since I don't know anything about my guns other than how to safely store, use and clean them I don't want to attempt to remove barrels from them without somebody to be a mentor and make sure I don't F anything up. Might have to get on You Tube and get with the times to learn what I need. LOL

[Loaded]

As long as the washers slide over the threads you can certainly use more than one to take up the desired space. I found different thicknesses of washers from plumbing supplies and who knows where else I got them. I just went thru my washer tray and had a bunch. There's really nothing special about it, it's just a 1/2" washer. I even got some aluminum washers that are pretty thick.

[OJB4]

As long as the washers slide over the threads you can certainly use more than one to take up the desired space. I found different thicknesses of washers from plumbing supplies and who knows where else I got them. I just went thru my washer tray and had a bunch. There's really nothing special about it, it's just a 1/2" washer. I even got some aluminum washers that are pretty thick.

You haven't had any problems with multiple washers and concentricity (couldn't that be a possibility)? How about minimum thread length to attach a can? Any recommendations?

[Tango2249]

Finally got to go to the range today and had an unpleasant surprise. Threads on new 10/22 were almost twice as long as needed. It seems like I read about this before but my search fu did not find it.

By my eyeball estimate there was at least 1/4 inch of thread left after the Spectre II bottomed out. Is a spacer necessary? If so, we're is the best place to buy.

The new sdn6 worked great on the 5.56 today. First time out with it as well. It was a little quiter than I remembered. Still loud though.

I had a similar problem with my Savage FVSR. What worked out best for me was this:

http://www.superiorsilence.com/collecti ... -protector

One end of the adapter screws onto your barrel threads and the other end screws onto your suppressor. It can be used with either a Spectre or Sparrow...

[Loaded]

As long as the washers slide over the threads you can certainly use more than one to take up the desired space. I found different thicknesses of washers from plumbing supplies and who knows where else I got them. I just went thru my washer tray and had a bunch. There's really nothing special about it, it's just a 1/2" washer. I even got some aluminum washers that are pretty thick.

You haven't had any problems with multiple washers and concentricity (couldn't that be a possibility)? How about minimum thread length to attach a can? Any recommendations?

concentricity is not an issue. Threads on the barrel & can determine concentricity, not washers. .400" is the normal thread length for a 22 can. Sparrow thread specs. are different but the .400" will work. Idea is not to get too close to baffle. If you take the sparrow apart and screw the core onto the barrel, you'll see it make contact with the o-ring. More than that will push the o-ring out. I would imagine that you could take the o-ring out completely (Ask Silencerco about that) if you want, but some of your muzzle threads will get loaded up with residue, which is no big deal if you don't let it get too bad. Second option is to buy the adapter from Silencerco, like the fella suggested, but washers(s) will work fine if you don't want to spend the extra money.

[OJB4]

Thanks Tango....Thanks Loaded! I actually picked up a couple adapters and have some spacers from thesilencerstore.com so I should be covered either way. Thanks for the info on concentricity too. I'm new and just don't wanna screw anything up. I figured if the spacers/washers weren't made/cut exactly that you could skew how the can threads on just a hair and possibly hurt something.....good to know that I was just overthinking everything.

I just had my dealer order a Sparrow for me so I'll have my adapters way ahead of time for that can, but I do have a pair of Spectre II's that I'll try the adapters on to see if I can engage the O-ring rather than my muzzle stopping just short of the O-ring. Don't know if that was a major problem, but I figure that my O-rings will crap out sooner since they're being subjected to the muzzle blast.

I'm not a large volume shooter so I haven't been too worried about damage to the O-ring. They should be easy enough to change out I'd imagine.

Thanks again!

I plan to shoot em a little bit this weekend after my morning turkey hunt! I have lots of hosts to try the Spectre II and Kodiak TL on! Maybe I'll even run across some pigs while wandering around the lease!

[Loaded]

You can buy Viton o-rings (these are Black in color which makes no difference) on ebay in bulk (50 in a pack) in both 13 & 18 sizes & a durometer hardness of 75. I bought a bag of each for $15 & change for both with free shipping. That should last you a lifetime.
When you finally get your Sparrow, you'll be able to screw it onto the muzzle and just snug up against the o-ring. then you can see wht you need in the way of washers to take up the remaining threads. A little gap between the muzzle & the o-ring won't hurt, but if you can touch it that's all the better. It'll keep more crud off the threads. Yeah, don't try to overthink it, it's pretty simple. Whhen you screw the core on the barrel it's easy to see.